Right :confused: like I said fatigue is setting in.

In that other thread it said you could break the gearbox and switch a part from the defender one and the stick would stay in that same place. I'll try find it again. Does this sound plausible?
 
Right :confused: like I said fatigue is setting in.

In that other thread it said you could break the gearbox and switch a part from the defender one and the stick would stay in that same place. I'll try find it again. Does this sound plausible?

I wasn't brave enough:rolleyes:
 
This was it. If you split the box you could swap the selector shaft and top housing from your defender box so you wouldn't have to modify the interior.

I know what you mean sounds like a can of worms. But would solve a whole lot of problems. Leaving just the cross member, engine mounts and exhaust. Which blew my mind taking the old one off. It was literally more of that fabric bandage stuff than steel. There were two completely separate pipes not even touching, just with the bandage wrapped round it. I don't know how this passed its last mot
 
cheers James. It's hard to know what is an acceptable level when you've only seen one. I read somewhere cross drilled only go on some boxes. Don't suppose you know which?

any box but early b suffix so c,d,e etc cross drilled fit , ftc5089 26 tooth ftc5087 28 tooth
 
Right it's making mote sense. Am I right in thinking r380 is a disco specific box?

no fits defender with right selector shaft and top if engines fitted against rad ,short replacements are available for 200 tdi defenders ,but not cheap
 
Right so I think I've decided to stick with the lt77 box for now as that only requires a new input gear for the transfer box, rather than changing mounts and gear levers etc.

Does anyone have any advice on crossdrilled input gears? Are britpart ok, or am I better going for a better brand, if they exist?
Ta
 
if your sticking with the lt77 box then i would advise buying the engine chassis mount from steve parkers as they bolt on using the bulk head support bolts then weld them in place. i did the conversion early last year on my 90 from a 19j engine to a 300tdi from a disco and bought all my parts from them as i wont sell my landy and want it to last a while. all their part are made to measure, ive seen alot of conversions with lots of joins in pipework but to me thats just asking for problems.
 
I will just wait to see what the one on the 300tdi is like. But you could have yourself a deal if you still have it next week.
 
Afternnon all. Removed my new engine today from the donor disco. That was fun.
abyzuru7.jpg
ybuvu2av.jpg


Wasn't ideal as the lifting eyes had been removed and the strap snapped a hose off of this part. No idea what it is don't have one on the 200tdi. :what:
emaqy5yt.jpg


There are a few bits missing from the 300 so need to find out if the 200 ones are a straight swop?:
-starter motor
-alternator
Think there is more but I've forgotten.

next is it easier to use the 200 or 300 turbo? 300s hoses look easier to route.

Finally, the clutch looked really good at first glance, at least compared to my old one.
new
uvypyvy4.jpg
ege8u7a9.jpg

Old
atagyguz.jpg
pesudety.jpg

Any tips for what to look for before I decide not to replace?

Thanks
 
Right went and had a poke about the new engine this evening answered a few questions, produced a few more:

Looks like the starter motor is a straight swop :D

Think we worked out we need to swop the flywheel housing from the 200 to the 300 to mate with the bell housing, but would appreciate some confirmation on that.

Still don't know what this is?? Possibly break air vacuum thingy? Need a new one as the pipe has sheared off.

And then there is electrics on the 300 where the 200 had none.
eza8ubur.jpg
zy7ebary.jpg
pypu6aqa.jpg
yhytumad.jpg

can anyone shed any light or point me in the direction of a 300tdi engine manual. The Hayes has a mixture of 200 and 300 and not enough pictures. Still learning and still having fun!:)
 
sender on head is for egr not needed
wires on pump ,1 for egr not needed the other immobiliser you need to break cover off and fit 12v feeed to solenoid under
you can just bolt engine up and just fit bolts that align, more than needed
 
Cheers. Reminds me I needs an egr blanking plate. I assume it just a plate with two holes, I could probably make one.

On one of the housings there is a couple of locating pegs which don't have corresponding holes, although I forget which way round it was. I do like the sound of not swoping anything as we tried undoing the flywheel bolts and well...they could be challenging.
 

Similar threads