Then I really think the issue is elsewhere. - I think the IRD oil is a red herring..
The 'issue' may be (unlikely) but maybe in the IRD - but I doubt it.
Again mate, please can you explain when you said - 'it was reproducible' ????
Hi B34R mate,Hmm, I understand what you're saying - it's entirely possible there's a red herring here.
The interesting thing is I realised last night I still have most of a bottle of this gear oil left, bought at the same time, if I've got time this weekend I could drop it and refill, see if I can reproduce the result.
One thing I forgot to mention - when I dropped the oil out of the ird, it was as thin as water, which gave me a "that's odd" thought at the time - it definitely didn't go in that thin. I'd suspect the oil cooler, but I'm not losing coolant and it wasn't emulsified.
When I grab it out of the garage I'll snap a picture of the bottle.
Hello Nodge, whilst I fully agree that is the spec - I am totally unconvinced re so called 'fully synthetic' oils - most of the hype is bollox. The vast majority of the base oil is mineral. A 'semi' synthetic - you would find it hard to buy anything else due to the totally ridiculous and misleading BS talked about the so called 'synthetics' are equally as useful.The IRD should use a fully synthetic oil which is GL4/5 rated and a 75w90 viscosity. It is under extreme stress so demands a high degree of oil protection
Hi Nodge, The only thing I would add is that there is absolutely no such thing as a 'fully synthetic' oil on the normal market for cars - in the way most people think - ie - an oil that does not contain ANY mineral oil. Many folks think that this is an artificially produced ' super ' oil that does not rely on fossil fuels.The main difference between oils, be it a straight mineral or full synthetic is its life in service.
I agree that the actual base oil stock is the same for pretty much all oils. The processes it then undergoes alters it's chemical characteristics. This gives oils that should last longer, once the additive packages are added.
I personally don't bother with the full synthetic oils for the IRD, but I do use a semi synthetic with a dose of molybdenum for additional friction reduction.
Agreed. All off the shelf, standard oils, mineral, semi-synthetic or full synthetic are derived from the same fossil fuel oil stock.Hi Nodge, The only thing I would add is that there is absolutely no such thing as a 'fully synthetic' oil on the normal market for cars - in the way most people think - ie - an oil that does not contain ANY mineral oil. Many folks think that this is an artificially produced ' super ' oil that does not rely on fossil fuels.
Joe
Hi Nodge, The only thing I would add is that there is absolutely no such thing as a 'fully synthetic' oil on the normal market for cars - in the way most people think - ie - an oil that does not contain ANY mineral oil. Many folks think that this is an artificially produced ' super ' oil that does not rely on fossil fuels.
Joe
You cannot beat the smell of Castrol R and brning rubber from Avon TurbospeedsBest thing about Castrol R is the smell as it leaves the exhaust of a well tuned racer.
That's the smell of my childhood at Brands, Cadwell, Oulton Park, Lydden Hill, Snetterton etc..
Indeed. I can still smell it now. It was a wonderful smelling and a brilliant lubricant for its short life. I remember running a Triumph straight 6 at 8,000 Rpm on an engine dyno with that wonderful smell drifting across the control panel.Best thing about Castrol R is the smell as it leaves the exhaust of a well tuned racer.
That's the smell of my childhood at Brands, Cadwell, Oulton Park, Lydden Hill, Snetterton etc..
The blanking plate is used to replace the rear output pinion on the IRD. It's normally the rear out pinion that fails, once the bearings on the crownwheel have collapsed.I have found a simple blanking plate solution on the internet which seems really simple and a great fix where you just take the IRD off and throw it away and blank off the hole.
I've used it a couple of times. You simply remove the rear output pinion, and replace it with the blanking plate. It's easy to do, but won't solve all IRD issues, just rear output issues.Has anybody used this fix ? and -daft question sorry-but where does the area behind the IRD ,the blanked off hole area draw it's oil from?
The engine oil is only used for lubrication of the engine.Is this the engine oil?