DPDan

DPDan

New Member
Hi all. Loved this site for ages and have finally registered.
I did something truly amazing today, I went to drain the oil and, while being distracted by my nephew I might add, drained the IRD! What a plonker
Anyway, long story short, I know the oil needs to be 75w90 API GL5. But, can I use part synthetic or does it have to be fully synthetic.

Could I use this... CASTROL UNIVERSAL 75W-90

Thanks in advance, Dan
 
It is just what was mentioned on other threads.
I didn't want to go against the vibe, have it fail and have people go 'what the he'll did you use that for?'

:violin:
 
DPDan said:
It is just what was mentioned on other threads.
I didn't want to go against the vibe, have it fail and have people go 'what the he'll did you use that for?'

:violin:
Click to expand...

seizing v/c or lack of oil change is the likely culprits for failure, gear box transmits the same torque but runs on very thin oil due to baulk rings having to clear oil from gear cone ,irds or diffs dont have that restriction, 75/90 or 80w90 would do equally well
 
Oh okay, cool.
I'll go pick up some of that castrol tomorrow then. Seeing as you can get it in halfs and it's the only place open tomorrow.

Thanks for the advice. There is so much conflicting advice out there. It gets a little mind boggling.
 
In view of the loading on the ird with the way the VCU can get stiff I would put the full synthetic, as that will give the highest load protection . Use a quality synthetic , as all synthetics are not equal. EG Redline Amsoil a good bet. It will also give less drag in cold and lubricate well at lower temps . HTSH
 
tacr2man said:
In view of the loading on the ird with the way the VCU can get stiff I would put the full synthetic, as that will give the highest load protection . Use a quality synthetic , as all synthetics are not equal. EG Redline Amsoil a good bet. It will also give less drag in cold and lubricate well at lower temps . HTSH
Click to expand...

no different to loading added to all the drive train ,frequent changes are better imo
 
Hi tacr2man
Thanks for the reply.
I went on the castrol website and put my reg number in and it recommended CASTROL UNIVERSAL 75W-90 high is part synthetic.
I'm getting confused...
 
Last edited:
if your going to go synthetic it needs to be full synthetic and high quality otherwise its not worth the effort . So mineral and frequent changes or pay more for full synthetic and change a lot less the synthetic will protect better at extremes , but its down to personal choice in the end , which route you wnat to go JMHO
 
Well, thanks for all the response.
I nipped to halfs after the f1 and picked up some of the prevoously mentioned Castrol and an oil can with a flexi hose.
The plug was a bit of a bitch to get off (as other people have mentioned) but it finally went with very little damage. Right tools etc...
Very happy that it's all sorted. Just have to wait and see now.

Thanks again everyone, Dan
 
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