nickjb said:

I've got a very intermittent fault. A few weeks ago the power completely cut out on the motorway. Pulled onto the hard shoulder. Restarted it and drove without issue. A few days later it did the same thing but wouldn't restart. Called the RAC who wiggled the fuses and relays and it started. Today it took ages to start (its always started perfectly before) but drove fine for 30 miles, then on the way home kept losing power. Not a total loss but way down on power for a few seconds at a time. I stopped and wiggled the fuses again but no difference. After about 3 miles it was fine again and drove home without issue. It would be nice to fix it before I need it again. Any ideas?

Freelander, 1951cc DOHC diesel 03 reg

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serenitycowboy said:

HI there, i had the same problem with a cheap TD4 i bought to go to spain and collect a trailer. i was aware that the MAF sensor was dodgy but it only restricts idle performance and fuel economy. However it can eventually bugger the injectors. I pulled the trailer up some seriously steep hills with the maf disconnected, but eventually in the summer heat, i had started at night in the cool air, the calculations that the MAF would be making to maximise performance werent there, and the engine started spluttering and eventaully it just kept stalling, together with the engine management light flashing on and off together with the engine cutting out.
After making it home with lots of white smoke and stuttering i plugged in the OBD reader, the best investment of my mechanical life, and it tells me that the fuel rail pressure is missing, the engine speed sensor is missing and the MAF is disconnected, duh!
My first port of call is to change the fuel filter. then check the fuel pump in the tank, You should be able to hear it for about ten seconds after turning the ignition on, whirring. sometimes, on other cars i have experienced the inlet pipe to the pump being blocked. access to the pump is under the boot mat via a large plastic disc. Then replace the MAF sensor, which you can get on ebay for less than 30 quid.
The problem with ECU controlled cars, which is now just about all of them, is that you can get faults on the OBD reader that make tragic reading when in fact it is usually something fairly cheap and basic. So my advice is change all filters, listen for the pump, if no sound, check its working. if not buy an OBD reader, for about 130 quid, of 250 quid with its own dedicated tablet. trust me its so worth it.

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Nodge68 said:

£30 Ebay MAFs don't allow the TD4 to generate full power. Only removing the MAF or genuine Bosch MAF allow full fueling to be delivered.
The fuel pressure code is a common TD4 fault. It'll be the rail sensor and/or its harness at fault. There is a LR replacement sensor and overly harness available to fix it.
Only a 54 plate onwards TD4 is OBD2 compliant. The OP was talking about his 03 plate FL1, which isn't OBD2 compliant. So a generic reader won't necessary display any fault codes. The original post was also 8 years ago, so hopefully he's sorted it by now!.

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serenitycowboy said:

Wow, thanks for that, i only bought this vehicle to get me to Spain and back, and initially i was very impresed by its power, and fuel economy, but after this, the Boss has spoken and i am selling it as is. I paid 450 for the car, 60 quid for a new alternator and another 60 for a new tow bar. on arriving in Spain a swapped the manky wheels and tyres for the series 2, 215s, so im out about 800 quid, against 800 for hiring a van to do the same job, so if i can recoup anything it would be a bonus. Thanks for your help though.

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