Intestinalworm

Intestinalworm

Well-Known Member
Checked out my EGR removal kit (D2 Td5 with the EU3 EGR/cooler), tools and access to the 8mm nuts (EGR valve) and 5mm hex bolts; prepped the hex bolts with PlusGas to make sure they're good and loose!
Okay then, undo jubilee clip on intercooler hose connection at EGR - but just can't budge that hose!!! Have tried pulling, twisting and levering with a large flat blade between the edge of the hose and the lip on the EGR valve, but just can't get it off no matter what technique I try! Tried going for a cuppa, coming back and trying again - but no! Intercooler hose is original and is very stiff and by levering it with a large flat blade screwdriver the top of the hose is now cut.

Thinking I might just have to get it off by cutting it off with a hacksaw blade! Does anyone know the part number for this hose if I end up destroying the original? Any ideas or thoughts? Can't believe it's so bloody stubborn.:mad:

I guess at some later stage I should replace the other two intercooler hoses on the passenger side of the engine and clean out the intercooler.
 
Do you have the parts book?

It's not a commonly replaced part as most folk rip em out, you could try a wanted post in AG to see if anyone kept their pipes?
 
No, I haven't got the parts book. I was going to just pick-up a single hose (intercooler to EGR) but now thinking I might be better off getting a new set (three) of silicone intercooler hoses. The current hoses are original (14 - 15 years old now) and I've read that over time they delaminate due to oil ingress and impact performance* - current hoses look fine on the outside and are definitely stiff!

* Seeing I have a 2003 Disco 2 Td5 I read that the hoses on these were improved? Read that they maintain their stiffness and don't delaminate
 
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I haven't done this job on mine but I reckon while you're at it you may as well do the hoses for peace of mind and the silicone ones should last another 14 years.Just saves hassle in the future
 
Maybe I should have tried (can still try) a hose pick to try and break the seal? Will have to buy one tomorrow then - seen at an auto store website for $5. If I replace the other two intercooler hoses as well then I might need something to help me remove them from the spigots - probably all a bit fused on as they are original hoses.

Has anyone who removed 2003 Disco 2 Td5 intercooler hoses noted any issues with internal delamination/distortion? Maybe the original hoses on there now will still be fine and I'm wasting money putting on new intercooler hoses (probably will go with silicone if I do decide to spend a some money)? Read the 2003 onwards hoses were far superior to the previous ones - can anyone comment if they have replaced their 2003 intercooler hoses and if it's worth doing?
 
It doesn't matter what year, all the original intercooler hoses de-laminate. If they are as old as you say, then they definitely could do with replacing and when you look inside them once off, you may see that they have de-laminated inside without any outward sign. As regards silicon hoses, many like them but they do have a habit of slipping off. You need to clean properly the fitting they are going onto, to remove all oil and grease, before fitting them. If then there is a leak somewhere, this may cause them to come off as the oil deposit lubricates the join between them. Others have replaced them with original hoses which don't seem to come off. Your choice.....

As regards different hoses after 2003, Microcat shows different hoses from up to VIN 2A736339 to after, but I have a sneaky feeling that the earlier ones are no longer available anyway, so the only genuine replacements are the later ones. Whether they are a better material I don't know, but there are still reports of them de-laminating. Not quite sure what the difference is, as I fitted the later ones to an earlier VIN without any problems.

Tony
 
don’t forget the new MOT regss coming in May 2018:rolleyes:

https://www.gov.uk/government/uploa...lasses-3-4-5-and-7-from-20-may-2018-draft.pdf

quote

Any modifications/removal to emissions related devices, this includes DPF'S and EGR's is now a major fail.



Advisories are being replaced with minor fails. These are all pre written & approved by DVSA. You will still get a pass but they will be noted on your test certificate. Manual advisories are still being worked out but may disappear completely.

Those of you who have changed your standard headlight bulbs for HID's will now get a major fail even if the aim is correct. It has always been an offence to fit HID bulbs to halogen headlamps so the MOT is now in line with that.

Reverse lights are now part of the MOT for any car registered from 1st September 2009 (59 plate onwards). Daytime running lamps (DRL's) & front fog lamps must work on vehicles registered from March 2018 (18 plate onwards).

Engine Management Light is now a major fail. It must come on with the ignition and then turn off when the engine is started.

Brake pad warning lights are a major fail

Handbrake with excessive travel is now a major fail. Before it would only a fail if there was no reserve travel.

Contaminated (dirty) brake fluid is a major fail. Not sure how that will work as the MOT tester isn't allowed to remove the fluid cap.

Oil leaks (engine, gearbox etc.) can be a major failure if they are deemed large enough.

It seems they have removed the failure for tyres not being fitted according to sidewall instructions. Inner/outer or rotation incorrect.

Any modifications/removal to emissions related devices, this includes DPF'S and EGR's is now a major fail.

Where a DPF canister has clearly been cut open and re-welded, it will now fail.

A vehicle fitted with a DPF that emits any kind of visible smoke during the metered test will now fail

Emissions limits for diesels registered on or after 1st of January 2014 have been reduced. All diesels will now need to pass the limit that was set by the manufacturer when the car was new. This can be found on the VIN plate. For example the current limit for your diesel car may be 1.50. That could change to as low as 0.30 with the new rules.
 
gstuart said:
don’t forget the new MOT regss coming in May 2018:rolleyes:

https://www.gov.uk/government/uploa...lasses-3-4-5-and-7-from-20-may-2018-draft.pdf

quote

Any modifications/removal to emissions related devices, this includes DPF'S and EGR's is now a major fail.



Advisories are being replaced with minor fails. These are all pre written & approved by DVSA. You will still get a pass but they will be noted on your test certificate. Manual advisories are still being worked out but may disappear completely.

Those of you who have changed your standard headlight bulbs for HID's will now get a major fail even if the aim is correct. It has always been an offence to fit HID bulbs to halogen headlamps so the MOT is now in line with that.

Reverse lights are now part of the MOT for any car registered from 1st September 2009 (59 plate onwards). Daytime running lamps (DRL's) & front fog lamps must work on vehicles registered from March 2018 (18 plate onwards).

Engine Management Light is now a major fail. It must come on with the ignition and then turn off when the engine is started.

Brake pad warning lights are a major fail

Handbrake with excessive travel is now a major fail. Before it would only a fail if there was no reserve travel.

Contaminated (dirty) brake fluid is a major fail. Not sure how that will work as the MOT tester isn't allowed to remove the fluid cap.

Oil leaks (engine, gearbox etc.) can be a major failure if they are deemed large enough.

It seems they have removed the failure for tyres not being fitted according to sidewall instructions. Inner/outer or rotation incorrect.

Any modifications/removal to emissions related devices, this includes DPF'S and EGR's is now a major fail.

Where a DPF canister has clearly been cut open and re-welded, it will now fail.

A vehicle fitted with a DPF that emits any kind of visible smoke during the metered test will now fail

Emissions limits for diesels registered on or after 1st of January 2014 have been reduced. All diesels will now need to pass the limit that was set by the manufacturer when the car was new. This can be found on the VIN plate. For example the current limit for your diesel car may be 1.50. That could change to as low as 0.30 with the new rules.
Click to expand...

UK quite strict with the MOT, over here (Australia) though, once your car is registered that's it; if you forget to register your car at any time and the registration expires then you need to get a roadworthy certificate from a mechanic before you can re-register the car - there are no annual checks. I will clean the EGR once removed and keep just in case I decide/need to put it back later.
 
I should add that every once in a blue moon, here in Victoria anyway, the EPA in conjunction with the Victoria Police (and maybe VicRoads as well) conduct roadside checks - they mainly target any passenger vehicles that are clearly modified, or "pimped up" should I say: darkly tinted windows all-round or maybe looking a bit like "The General Lee" - that car in "The Dukes Of Hazzard"; not like the UK yet - checking for a removed EGR or DPF is not really on the radar at the moment.

I should say, I'm environmentally aware and try to do the right thing most of the time (removing EGR aside). I do have arguments with people who profess that electric cars are more environmentally friendly - I tell them to at least read up on the environmental hazards associated with batteries and lithium mining in particular and look at where your electricity is coming from (coal or nuclear) - not to mention the huge amount of energy and materials used to build and transport a new vehicle. If you're an environmentalist you take care of what you have and keep it running - don't like the "buy a new one / throw it away" culture!
 
Went down to local Auto shop and bought a set of four "cheapo" hose picks (straight, 90 degree, hooked and incline) for just $5. Anyway, it made the difference - was able to break the seal (mainly on the underside) fairly quickly and then pulled the hose off with relative ease. Good thing is the hose picks are all still okay (they look very cheap!) and ready for me to use on the next stubborn hose! The hose picks didn't damage the intercooler hose and they were small enough to allow access - that's usually the main issue with hoses in my limited experience - very little room to budge them off.

Anyway, the hose looks excellent internally (only a slight oil film) with no observable bumps or distortion - original 15-year-old 5-ply hose; will check the other two hoses on the intercooler inlet side later on.

Cleaned MAP and MAF sensors whilst removing the EGR valve (waiting for PlusGas penetrant to soak into the exhaust manifold bolts) - MAP sensor was certainly dirty when I took it out so I gave it a good spray with the MAF cleaner.

Will put the EGR bypass on tomorrow and maybe use MAF cleaner to give the Depression Control Valve (diesel equivalent of a PCV) a good clean - would love to see a cutaway of that valve! Anyway, it's original also and it concerns me because some say it's a service (albeit infrequent) item and should be replaced!? Costs $50 for a little piece of plastic.
 
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I put silicone Boost and Coolant hoses on mine, Had them about 2 years and still look like new, and easy to get on/off. The 3 boost ones set you back about 50 quid on Ebay. As mentioned they are a bit more slippery, so use good hose clamps, found these ones which look like they would hold pretty well, but I've only used standard hose clamps on mine, with no problems so far.
 
So MAF and MAP cleaned (both with MAF cleaner - smells like brake cleaner!) and EGR bypass installed - will reconnect battery tomorrow and go for a test run - might also put the acoustic cover back on as I've read that once the EGR valve is removed things can get a bit noisier.

The removed EGR valve is dirty, but I thought it would be a lot dirtier since the inside has never seen the light of day since 2003 (217,000km). Anyway, no more "smoker's lung" for the Disco 2 Td5!:D

I have the EU3 set-up with the EGR cooler and two vacuum lines going to the two actuators on the EGR valve (blanked off cooler left in place). I obviously removed the two vacuum lines from each of the two EGR valve actuators, traced both those lines back to the solenoids on the driver's side (RHD) of the engine bay and pulled them out - I then covered the two exposed spigots on the solenoids with rubber isolating blanked sleeves. However, I have read elsewhere that one should unplug the vacuum lines at the two EGR actuators and plug each line at that end with self-tapper screws, then trace both vacuum lines back to the solenoids and remove the electrical connections to those solenoids (a green and a black plug). Anyone know what the difference is between these methods?

[Will clean the EGR valve and pipes with carb cleaner ready to go back on at a later date if reg's change]
 
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Intestinalworm said:
So MAF and MAP cleaned (both with MAF cleaner - smells like brake cleaner!) and EGR bypass installed - will reconnect battery tomorrow and go for a test run - might also put the acoustic cover back on as I've read that once the EGR valve is removed things can get a bit noisier.

The removed EGR valve is dirty, but I thought it would be a lot dirtier since the inside has never seen the light of day since 2003 (217,000km). Anyway, no more "smoker's lung" for the Disco 2 Td5!:D

I have the EU3 set-up with the EGR cooler and two vacuum lines going to the two actuators on the EGR valve (blanked off cooler left in place). I obviously removed the two vacuum lines from each of the two EGR valve actuators, traced both those lines back to the solenoids on the driver's side (RHD) of the engine bay and pulled them out - I then covered the two exposed spigots on the solenoids with rubber isolating blanked sleeves. However, I have read elsewhere that one should unplug the vacuum lines at the two EGR actuators and plug each line at that end with self-tapper screws, then trace both vacuum lines back to the solenoids and remove the electrical connections to those solenoids (a green and a black plug). Anyone know what the difference is between these methods?

[Will clean the EGR valve and pipes with carb cleaner ready to go back on at a later date if reg's change]
Click to expand...
Get one of those "sports exhausts" with a decat and the egr removed and you'll never want to see that acoustic cover again, and I don't mean it's loud it's just the sound it puts out is heavenly :p
I done the same as yours and blanked off the 2 connectors, but ran the vacuum line from the turbo Wastegate straight the the lower boost pipe (metal one) and plugged the hole on the air intake pipe.
So solenoid was left completely disconnected from pipes but I left the electrical plug in for it not to throw any errors.
 
Intestinalworm said:
....might also put the acoustic cover back on as I've read that once the EGR valve is removed things can get a bit noisier.
Click to expand...
IMO put that cover back, it's not only acoustic cover as some seem to think, it acts as a thermal shield too, it protects the electrics from the head's radiant heat, especially the connectors and the fusebox... as i already said in other post ;)... i've even fitted a turbo blanket which reduces the engine bay's temp even more(beside a slight improvement in the boost curve) and wrapped the downpipe .... i made all kind of comparative measurements on my car with laser thermometer pointed to various bits in the engine bay after longer drives with and without engine cover and the result is explanatory as at the same ECT the surrounding temperature was lower with up to 8*C even better after the turbo blanket was fitted while it was neglectable difference in the ECT without it.... so if you want to ''tenderise'' your electrics in the engine bay in favour of some "heavenly" sound it's your choice :cool:
 
sierrafery said:
IMO put that cover back, it's not only acoustic cover as some seem to think, it acts as a thermal shield too, it protects the electrics from the head's radiant heat, especially the connectors and the fusebox... as i already said in other post ;)... i've even fitted a turbo blanket which reduces the engine bay's temp even more(beside a slight improvement in the boost curve) and wrapped the downpipe .... i made all kind of comparative measurements on my car with laser thermometer pointed to various bits in the engine bay after longer drives with and without engine cover and the result is explanatory as at the same ECT the surrounding temperature was lower with up to 8*C even better after the turbo blanket was fitted while it was neglectable difference in the ECT without it.... so if you want to ''tenderise'' your electrics in the engine bay in favour of some "heavenly" sound it's your choice :cool:
Click to expand...

Just left the "acoustic cover" off after doing the injector loom, but I am intending to put it back once I do the fuel pressure regulator - certainly don't want to slowly cook my electrics.
 
Hey, was looking on the www.discovery2.co.uk website and noticed ("Urban Panzer" I believe) that he mentioned the temperature sensor on the inlet manifold? I removed this sensor and gave it a good clean with some MAF cleaner as it was quite dirty (being in that EGR contaminated inlet manifold); thing is I thought this was the MAP (manifold air pressure sensor), but Urban Panzer said it's the manifold temperature sensor? Can someone please clarify, because I know I cleaned the MAF but did I also clean the MAP or was that the manifold air temperature sensor?
 
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It's dual purpose MAP/IAT sensor, it has a small hole near that protuberance there's the pressure sensor, the ''probe'' is for IAT(inlet air temperature) so that small hole is important to be free'd of muck
MAP sensor.jpg
 
I would have thought cooking the electrics would be a bit of an exaggeration for removing the cover o_O I ran mine for 25k miles, including through hot countries without seeing any problems to nearby components or wiring etc, personal preference I guess ;)
 

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