Danielsand · Aug 26, 2014

I searched, and I got conflicting results. So I'm asking the gurus,.......install new gaskets WITH, or WITHOUT some kind of silicone? Seems like the ones I pulled out, haven't been sealed, and they leaked BADLY.

IF the silicone is a "go", which one is recommended? Basically, I'd like to hear from the people that did this job before, and didn't have to do it again.

Oh, and one more thing,.......antisieze compond on the threads, or not? And what are the torque specs for the intake bolts?

I know,....lot of questions, but since you are all such a friendly bunch, I hope you don't mind?

jamesmartin · Aug 26, 2014

shouldnt need anything with a gasket or bolts

Danielsand · Aug 26, 2014

jamesmartin said:
shouldnt need anything with a gasket or bolts

I appreciate the answer. Have you done this (dry gasket) with positive results? I REALLY don't want to open this again, any time soon.

Correct me if I'm wrong, but after I saw the condition of the gaskets (and how this manifold is constructed), I think that if the gasket leaks, the intake will suck some coolant into the chamber (I had an odd #5 misfire once, that never came back)?

I downloaded RAV, but I was not able to open it (missing some software). I need to get the Hippo on the road again, and then I'll deal with the software, and the manual.

I'm replacing both gaskets, elbow pipe, thermostat, coolant tank, and the cap. I'm hoping this to stop the pressure build up in the tank (the thing never overheated). I haven't had any significant coolant loss. Engine did feel sluggish (it's a small V6, and all other vehicles in the family are 8cyl with gobs of power!), but there are no signs of HGF (white exhaust, oil/coolant mix, and such). Trouble is,.....I never drove any other Hippo, so I can't tell whether it acts "normal", or not.

Your help is appreciated.

zefrench · Aug 26, 2014

Pm me your email for a PDF version of rave that you can read. I changed the inlet (intake for us) manifold gasket without any additional sealant. I went with copper anti seize on the manifold bolts. The bolts are stainless and the engine block and threads are in aluminium thus dissimilar metals ..

Nodge68 · Aug 26, 2014

If you are talking about the paper manifold to head gaskets? There's no need for any kind of sealer. In fact excess sealer could find its way into the cylinders. Fit the gaskets dry, they are pre-treated with an elastopolimer sealer anyway. I've done many many KV6 inlet manifold gaskets without an issue.

Danielsand · Aug 26, 2014

Nodge68 said:
If you are talking about the paper manifold to head gaskets? There's no need for any kind of sealer. In fact excess sealer could find its way into the cylinders. Fit the gaskets dry. I've done many many KV6 inlet manifold gaskets without an issue.

Thank you. That's exactly the info I needed.

I ran into some posts where people used some kind of RTV sealant on these, and I was worried about the sealant getting into the head, and/or coolant channels in the manifold (how much is too much, and such). So prepping the matting surfaces with alcohol/thinner, install dry, and good to go? Judging by the distance between the bolts, there is no specific tightening sequence between them? I just PMd "zefrench" who kindly offered Rave in PDF, so I'll get the torques from that. Still on the fence whether to use antisieze or not (don't want the bolts to come loose any time soon).

What's the purpose of the plactic clamps on the "pump to stat pipe", other than preventing the pipe to work itself inside the pump (or stat)? I broke one and methinks, if no other purpose, I can use a nice thick ZIP tie, or even a metal hose clamp?

Thanks.

zefrench · Aug 27, 2014

The clamps prevent lateral movement of the straight pipe between the water pump and the thermostat. I used a combination of zip ties and a metal hose clamp. All from Home Depot for dirt heap. Only do one side outside the car, I had to undo and redo the 2nd set of clip in the car.

Danielsand · Aug 27, 2014

Thanks. I figured that out. I have some heavy duty zip ties (about the same width as the original clamps), and I'll use that. This whole thermostat set up looks Mickey Mouse to me. I'm surprised nobody came up with some "relocation kit" by now.

Nodge68 · Aug 27, 2014

Danielsand said:
Thanks. I figured that out. I have some heavy duty zip ties (about the same width as the original clamps), and I'll use that. This whole thermostat set up looks Mickey Mouse to me. I'm surprised nobody came up with some "relocation kit" by now.

Agreed. It's garbage made down to a price. Iirc the thermostat was alloy before BMW took ownership. Many BMW engines also use plastic thermostat housings.
Keiser in SA does an aluminium (aluminum) version. I don't believe it's a PRT stat though, this is not so good.

Danielsand · Aug 27, 2014

I don't mind it being plastic, but they could've placed it in a better place? Of course if it's easier to get to, it would not bring as much revenue to the LR service departments, would it? I bet in couple of decades, vehicles will be designed in such way, that DIY will be totally impossible.

zefrench · Aug 28, 2014

Nodge68 said:
Agreed. It's garbage made down to a price. Iirc the thermostat was alloy before BMW took ownership. Many BMW engines also use plastic thermostat housings.

Keiser in SA does an aluminium (aluminum) version. I don't believe it's a PRT stat though, this is not so good.

What makes you think it is not a prt thermostat ?

Nodge68 · Aug 28, 2014

zefrench said:
What makes you think it is not a prt thermostat ?

From what I've seen, the Keiser stat is a standard stat. I'm not 100% sure hence the "don't believe" bit in my post

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