Jerseyp38 said:

Thanks Guys,

Changed the alternator and fitted the new regulator as well. Been for a 7 miles drive with three stop/starts. Drove 3.5miles and all good. Stop for an hour, started and alternator fault showing, all EAS lights on and no rev counter, decided to head home and after a short while (500metres) rev counter came alive and lights went off. Stop at shop, started all ok, drove a couple of minutes and rev counter dropped down and lights on on EAS. Staid like this for a couple of minutes and then rev counter back and lights off......
Got home, unloaded some shopping and started car all good.

Tomorrow will fit a voltmeter to battery and run engine and see if voltage is changing or not and any correlation with rev count/lights coming on happening.

Any other suggestions?

Cheers

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Grrrrrr said:

On rr.net there is an electrical troubleshooting guide. Work through it from the start. As Datatek says, probably an earth cable but best be methodical.

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Jerseyp38 said:

Thanks Guys,

Have had a busy afternoon, went through the trouble shooter from RR.net and found my battery was 12.2V after putting on a load. The voltage drop across the earths from alternator to -ve termial was 0.012V with a load on. Changed the battery for another but still only only 12.3V after loading but gave it a try and some improvement, more time with a rev counter than without..... Went to car shop for some bulbs for Mrs Merc and on impulse got some oil and filter for the little citroen ZX. Then went to change oil on this and found my spare good P38 battery (I had forgotten I had fitted it over the winter.....). Changed this and after load test had 12.54V so have been for a 7 mile drive and stop/started a few times and have revs and behaving EAS lights.

Please, please, please, fingers crossed................

Also snicked in refurbing the EAS pump; power steering fluid and gearbox oil next............

Thanks for all the ideas and the energy to carry on gained by people bothering to reply. Thank you.

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Jerseyp38 said:

Well, how did you know, Datatek, that I had not finished..............

I did check the voltages at 2000rpm but couldn't remeber so thought I would check again before replying so went out this morning.

Checked battery and was sitting at 12.65V. Started up and no rev counter and EAS lights on. Tick over voltage at battery 12.51V rev to I guess about 200rpm and voltage actually dropped slightly to 14.48V........

Yesterday I also fitted one of these to the negative terminal:
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/DC-10A-5...Meter-Gauge-New-/112553871462?var=&hash=item0

and it showed 14.4V but minimal current (0.4A). I tried connecting the wires to the shunt the otherway around and it read zero volts. I discarded this info in my mind and assumed it was £6 wasted........

I am now thinking new alternator?

Cheers

Mark

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Datatek said:

The battery may be good, but what voltage do you have across the battery with the engine at 2K rpm? It should be around 14.5 volts depending on year. If not, the battery is either not charging or not charging enough.

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Grrrrrr said:

Original diesel is 13.8V unless he has upgraded the regulator.

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Jerseyp38 said:

Hi,

12.51v should read 14.51V. So tick voltage was 14.5V and 2000rpm voltage was 14.48V.

Have actually ordered a recon alternator, but feeling confused by different voltages it should be?

I did by a new regulator and fit and tried it in the alternator that was on car and then fitted in to the second alternator that gave a fault. Didn't bother with the original alternator as the commutator (if that is the right term) look well worn with finger nail clicking groves in).

All the alternators sound good (no bearing noise) and apart from a bit dirty look OK, no cracks etc. Are there any other checks I can do on an alternator?

Are the rectifying diodes in the alternator or regulator? Could that be a source of the problem?

Cheers.

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Jerseyp38 said:

Hi Guys,
Well received my recon alternator but wrong one had been sent, quite impressed though there was a print out showing the output test of the alternator. So I managed to find my old analog clamp ammeter and found despite the dash saying alternator fault I had 14 plus volts and between 25 and 50 ampswith the head lights on. So in desperation changed the BeCM as I had a cloned spare from when I had the original worked on and taken back to basics. And so far no fault messages done 30 miles around Jersey and ran well. Wonder if the original was suffering from damp problems as 6 months ago changed the O rings on the heater matrix as it was leaking. Now have a highline BeCM rather than a low line. Not sure if that is good or bad!

Oh I hope that sorts it out!

Power steering fluid and others underneath next! And then might give it a wash...........

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Jerseyp38 said:

Hi Guys,
Well received my recon alternator but wrong one had been sent, quite impressed though there was a print out showing the output test of the alternator. So I managed to find my old analog clamp ammeter and found despite the dash saying alternator fault I had 14 plus volts and between 25 and 50 ampswith the head lights on. So in desperation changed the BeCM as I had a cloned spare from when I had the original worked on and taken back to basics. And so far no fault messages done 30 miles around Jersey and ran well. Wonder if the original was suffering from damp problems as 6 months ago changed the O rings on the heater matrix as it was leaking. Now have a highline BeCM rather than a low line. Not sure if that is good or bad!

Oh I hope that sorts it out!

Power steering fluid and others underneath next! And then might give it a wash...........

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Grrrrrr said:

Switched mine to a highline some time ago with no issues so far.

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Jerseyp38 said:

Yes, more than likely but will save that for another day, though didn't see any significant corrosion. Think I might just enjoy the driving sensation for a while!

I will try it sometime just to know if it is good as a backup or not. (perhaps I fiddle just a little too much)!

Cheers.

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Datatek said:

Why, I wonder, did you do that?

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