buckshot
Well-Known Member
ratty
I'm not special I'm limited edition
The early TD5's had nylon dowels to locate the head. They warp and that allows the head to move. You then have to get the headgasket changed. Check the cooling system aint pressurising. Squeeze the coolant pipes when the engine hasn't been started. They will feel all soft and squidgy. That is fine. Take it on a test drive. When you have finished your drive, squeeze the pipes again. If they are firm but you can still squeeze em that is normal. If they are rock solid, walk away or factor in the price of getting the HG done. If the pipes are still soft, check the expansion cap is tight and hasn't had a small hole drilled in it to release the pressure.
Dip a piece of white tissue in the top of the expansion tank. If it comes out black or grey, walk away.
The Injector wiring loom is prone to oil seapage from the head to the ECU. This is not an expensive fix but something you should be wary of. Pull the red plug out of the ecu and check for traces of oil. (A new loom is about £40).
TD5 Disco's have air suspension. Check for worn airbags and that the compressor doesn't take all year to raise the suspension.
Right. I'll let someone else take it up from here.
Dip a piece of white tissue in the top of the expansion tank. If it comes out black or grey, walk away.
The Injector wiring loom is prone to oil seapage from the head to the ECU. This is not an expensive fix but something you should be wary of. Pull the red plug out of the ecu and check for traces of oil. (A new loom is about £40).
TD5 Disco's have air suspension. Check for worn airbags and that the compressor doesn't take all year to raise the suspension.
Right. I'll let someone else take it up from here.
buckshot
Well-Known Member
ratty
I'm not special I'm limited edition
ACE, and ABS are great when they work but can get expensive when they don't. Do a search on here for the three amigos.
The price of 4x4's has dropped dramatically. As a reult some people are living in cloud cuckoo land with their prices. Just remember that there are plenty out there so don't rush in.
Some of the disco 2's have traction control and some have a difflock lever. Make sure you know whet the difference is and buy what bes suits your needs.
No problem mate. If you"re thinking about a TD5 this is the place to ask questions. One word of warning - don"t mention Jap motors
If you could live with a slightly older motor the 300 TDI like mine has a lot lot less to go wrong with it !
headlight
battenberg
Well-Known Member
no one mentioned rust yet...?
all Disco's rust... the TD5's is no exception.
take a torch and have a good look underneath, be wary if it's spent it's life near the coast
all Disco's rust... the TD5's is no exception.
take a torch and have a good look underneath, be wary if it's spent it's life near the coast
MartinK
New Member
BarryJohn,
Condition and TLC is more important that milage. Mines done 144k miles (2002, and I'm the only owner). Re rust - I had my chassis waxoyl treated when it was 2 years old (and I top it up myself occationally) so no rust issues here - don't forget a lot of the body is aluminium so no rust worries there... The motors and gearboxes seem good to 200k + miles if treated with tlc and serviced regularly. Keep an eye on "other" issues, like sunroof leaks, Ratty's advise on head gaskets is good on pre-2002 models, wheel bearings can be expensive...
Parts are plentuful & cheap, so if you're half-capable with a set of spanners they are a fantastic purchase...
Any Disco 2 will be getting well-depreciated by now, mines worth ~£4000 I guess. As I mentioned, don't avoid high milage if it's had a loving owner...
Condition and TLC is more important that milage. Mines done 144k miles (2002, and I'm the only owner). Re rust - I had my chassis waxoyl treated when it was 2 years old (and I top it up myself occationally) so no rust issues here - don't forget a lot of the body is aluminium so no rust worries there... The motors and gearboxes seem good to 200k + miles if treated with tlc and serviced regularly. Keep an eye on "other" issues, like sunroof leaks, Ratty's advise on head gaskets is good on pre-2002 models, wheel bearings can be expensive...
Parts are plentuful & cheap, so if you're half-capable with a set of spanners they are a fantastic purchase...
Any Disco 2 will be getting well-depreciated by now, mines worth ~£4000 I guess. As I mentioned, don't avoid high milage if it's had a loving owner...
Borneo TD5
New Member
You might wanna check the thermostat as well...
ratty
I'm not special I'm limited edition
That's easier said than done. If in doubt throw a new one in. They are less than £20.
Weak water pumps are often the cause of malfunctioning thermostats rather than the stat itself.
A normal thermostat opens at a set temp.
A TD5 thermostat does this too. It also has the second valve which uses the suction power of the water pump to open it at approx 1500rpm.
The picture below is of a TD5 thermostat. As you will see it looks nothing like a normal thermostat
the upper pipe coming out at an angle goes direct to the waterpump and as I have already stated uses the suction of the waterpump to open the valve at upwards of 1500rpm.
I was offered a 2001 TD5 today off my mates boss, it cheap lets put it that way. There is a problem with it but it runs, and it is in good condition. The problem is after about 1 1/2 hours of running the temp gauge shoots up there is a loss of power, if you leave it for around 5 mins the temp drops very quickly and all is back to normal. The engine aint overheating, because when the gauge goes up if you open the expansion tank you can put your finger in it and its only warm. Is this a common fault, and has anyone else had this problem. He said its been in to have it checked out on the computor but nothing is showing up, he has also changed the thermostat. Thanx Barry.
MartinK
New Member
If you;re SURE the water's NOT overheating, then is the temperature sensor faulty???
Available for £6 on the web:
SENSOR-TEMPERATURE
Worth a try???
I'm assuming that the vehicle's standard and hasn't been modofoied with a Kenlowe (or similar) fan?
Can't understand why the vehicle's losing power though...?
Available for £6 on the web:
SENSOR-TEMPERATURE
Worth a try???
I'm assuming that the vehicle's standard and hasn't been modofoied with a Kenlowe (or similar) fan?
Can't understand why the vehicle's losing power though...?
I would have thought if a sensor was faulty, that would have shown up on the (computor diagnostics thingy). Im just trying to find out if its worth buying as its very cheap.
Davec
New Member
If the vehicle overheats it goes into "limp home" mode to protect it from more serious damage, so the power loss may not be a problem, a faulty gauge will still trigger it. Slightly low coolant level can cause the gauge to rise, and so triggering "limp home" without the engine actually overheating.
However gauges are there to warn you of serious and potentially expensive problems, so be careful.
Regarding rust, I have no experience of older Discoveries, but quite a lot of the body is not aluminium, although modern steels have far better anti corrosion properties than they used to.
To set the record straight, all Discovery 2s have Traction Control, but only some have a Diff Lock, if you're not planing serious off roading I wouldn't worry too much.
They do not all have air suspension, generally the 7 seaters, an it is only on the back when it is fitted.
Many of them, I believe generally the 5 seaters, have Active Cornering Enhancement (ACE) This can result in expensive problema as it gets older. In my opinion it has more effect off road, as they appear to fit stiffer anti roll bars to compensate on road when it is not fitted.
However gauges are there to warn you of serious and potentially expensive problems, so be careful.
Regarding rust, I have no experience of older Discoveries, but quite a lot of the body is not aluminium, although modern steels have far better anti corrosion properties than they used to.
To set the record straight, all Discovery 2s have Traction Control, but only some have a Diff Lock, if you're not planing serious off roading I wouldn't worry too much.
They do not all have air suspension, generally the 7 seaters, an it is only on the back when it is fitted.
Many of them, I believe generally the 5 seaters, have Active Cornering Enhancement (ACE) This can result in expensive problema as it gets older. In my opinion it has more effect off road, as they appear to fit stiffer anti roll bars to compensate on road when it is not fitted.
Basicly im after something to pull my boat about and launch. Also i want some confort aswell, for those long trips. Dont go loesing the plot know (LOL), but i have a fourtrak at the moment which pulls the boat no prob. The main problem with this vehicle, is its a commercial with only 2 seats. So any long runs will leave me with no teeth and in need of a back brace.
ratty
I'm not special I'm limited edition
My Coolant sensor fecked up after mine overheated. It kept going in and out of limp mode. I replaced it and it has been fine since. The sensor costs around £20. In my case the guage wouldn't ever read above the normal mark even if it was overheating.
For the temperature to be going up and down like it is I would be looking at thermostat or waterpump. A new waterpump off ebay is about £25. You will need new oil seals too as you have to undo the rotary oil filter housing to change the pump.
Summit else to keep an eye out for is diesel in your coolant (blown fuel cooler £230 to replace) or diesel in your oil in the sump (either leaky injector seals or fecked injector rail in the cylinder head). Make sure the oil isn't rising up the dipstick as it is being driven.
For the temperature to be going up and down like it is I would be looking at thermostat or waterpump. A new waterpump off ebay is about £25. You will need new oil seals too as you have to undo the rotary oil filter housing to change the pump.
Summit else to keep an eye out for is diesel in your coolant (blown fuel cooler £230 to replace) or diesel in your oil in the sump (either leaky injector seals or fecked injector rail in the cylinder head). Make sure the oil isn't rising up the dipstick as it is being driven.
