M

martinlr

New Member
Dear enthusiasts and fans of Land Rover:

My name is Martin, I live in the city of Montevideo, Uruguay (Southamerica)

I am a happy owner of a Freelander Td4 2002, searching a block valve for an automatic gearbox JATCO

From already I am very grateful to anyone who can provide me information about where I can find this piece.

Greetings to all!

Martin
 
Dear zefrench:

The automatic transmission works seemingly fine, but when I drive in a situation of constantly accelerating - slowing - stopping and accelerating again (eg in a street with many traffic lights or driving in a traffic stuck) repeatedly happens that when I accelerate, the engine rpm goes up but the gearbox don´t change of gear. Eg , when I restart the march after was stopped in a traffic light, the gearbox goes up until to 3rd gear (not always the issue is with the 3rd gear , sometimes happens with the 2nd or 4th gear ) and after don´t goes up to the next gear.

From what I can ascertain talking with specialists repair automatic gearboxes , it is quite possible that these symptoms are caused by a problem in the block valve (any electronic problem was discarded because the scan with the test book don´t indicated any failure in the gearbox )

I´m looking your help because here is very difficult to get this kind of spare part , so I'm analyzing the possibility of bringing a spare part from England.

From already thanks you very much for all the help that you can provide me.
 
I will use a very wordy post in case you are not an english speaker.

I would be very careful in just throwing parts at this (this means changing parts with no specific diagnosis)

A lot of general mechanics do not know this transmission very well, and just mention things here and there.

The Jatco JF506E is used in many vehicles(Jaguar, Land Rover, Rover, Mazda, Volkswagen to name a few), and has a few known faults depending on the year and application.

Up to years 2002/2003 in all applications (this means where the transmission is installed, Mazda, VW, LR) there is a fault with a lot of them with the reverse piston. Mazda and then Jaguar noticed and made a special technical bulletin on this.

In the Rover/Land Rover/Volkwagen (but not the Mazda) some of the Solenoid will with time "cook". They test fine electrically but no longer open or close at all or fast enough. Speculation in the VW forums is that this is due to the temperature of the ATF (Automatic Transmision Fluid) in the Rover/LR/VW.

Some parts are compatible between brand and some parts are not.

Question: Do you just want a list of parts or you want to do some diagnostics yourself?


If you want to diagnose, how many KM/Miles does you Freelander have? Is this the first transmission? Was any repairs done to the Transmission before?

(More technical questions to come)

If you do not know the english word, feel free to post the one or two words in spanish, I can communicate in spanish somewhat ok.
 
Estimate:

Before continuing I want to thank your willingness and support.

As you've noticed, I'm not very good with the english language, but will do my best for you understand me.

- Currently the car has 105,000 km (original factory)
- The oil in the gearbox and IRD was replaced shortly before 100,000 km, as indicated by the maintenance manual..
- My mechanic of confidence showed me that apparently the box was opened before (I am second owner) because are visibles residues of sealant or some type of glue.

Do you recommend me check the solenoids before making another type of repair?

I stay to await your comments and thank you very much again for your time and patience.
 
So let's focus on symptoms. If you go on the highway at 100 km/h. Do the gear change normally from 1 to 2 and 2 to 3 and 3 to 4 ? Or is higher rpm needed to gear change ?
 
What if you manually gear change, does it change right away or it slips? Meaning it takes more time or higher rpm to change gear. Is this both going up in gears or also going down in gears?
 
In highway the transmission works ok, the problem begins to happend on certain situations as I described in the previous post (eg in streets with many traffic lights, where is necessary stop and restart continously)

About your question of what happens if I change gears manually, once the problem begins (remember that not happen continuously, only in certain situations) happening in manually mode too.
 
Ok what about going into reverse, any problems when cold (when you just start the car) or when warm (at the end of driving for a good 15 30 minutes) ?

So next step is to test the solenoids

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VTmdkDuKZ6A

The transmission computer module (TCM) will only give error codes on the solenoids in certain conditions. For example it will detect a corroded or disconnected solenoid. It will not detect one that is passing electrical current but is sticking (opening slower then normal, sometime opening, sometimes not opening) or one that is faulty and passing current bu not opening at all ever.

The test will only identify completely faulty ones. Since your problems comes and go, (maybe it only happens when it is warmed up?) I suspect this test will not report anything but it needs to be ruled out.


Do you want links to buy items to do you own tests or you want information to pass on to your mechanic? If you want a mechanic to do this, I would find a mechanic that specialize in Transmission (in Canada and in the USA we have transmission rebuilding automotive shops) It is not impossible to do, bu there is a steep learning curve and one needs to be very very very meticulous and take his time.
 
The reverse works ok, and the problem never happens in cold, when happens, is with the engine warm (as you said, at the end of driving for a good 15 30 minutes)

I will talk with the specialist in automatic transmission to test the solenoids. The workshop with which I am talking about this issue is the most known in repair automatic gearboxes in my country, the big problem is that Land Rover is a brand very little difunida here and therefore do not have much information about problems that may occur in these vehicles.

Again, thank you very much for your help
 
Difundida you mean? As in not popular ? Tell you transmission specialist to treat it like a Volkswagen Jeta transmission 09A for testing. It's almost the same internals some slight change here and there. The Mazda JA5AL electronics are a bit different but the clutches and pistons are mostly the same.


Take note that even though some of the innards ( internal items ) are the same, the external housing is not compatible.


Do the shift from 1 to 2 is impacted when warm or only 2 to 3 or 3 to 4? That makes a difference.
 
Most of the time the problem occurs in the transfer of 3 to 4, and sometimes in 2 to 3, but never in 1 to 2 (at least I don´t remember that has happened)

Thank you very much for the link and for all the information provided, I think it will be very helpful
 
I think you have the hairline crack on the reverse piston, notice it is a crack on the surface and not cracking the piston in pieces.

See here for a recent member:

http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f9/help-jatco-td4-auto-box-252796.html

Notice here from ATRA

www.atra.com/bulletins/2006/july/atb1021.pdf‎

If you read from here

http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/2986979-post41.html

I post the details on the pressure test your mechanic can do to determine if the reverse piston does have a crack that impacts pressure.
 
I would test the solenoids first and then test the pressure for the reverse piston (that "piston" also is involved in the gear change of 2 to 3)
 
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