Rhode rover

Rhode rover

Active Member
Hello everyone, I hope everyone had a Merry Christmas and is looking forward to a great New Year.
Today is a a mile stone for me. Santa graciously brought a needle scaler ( a galvanized chassis might have been nicer) , the weather was with me so I officially started stripping the chassis. I feel like a damned fool for being excited about scraping rusted metal. Some spots are not as bad as I thought and the areas that need work are more defined...that's good, I think. After scaling the surfaces that are solid seem to have almost a baked silver like finish with black spots. Sounds weird I know. I this a normal thing?
Please advice. I'll try to post a picture.
 
I decided a needle gun would be too brutal for chassis work.
Is the metal solid? Grind it off, treat and paint?
 
Rhode rover said:
I think. After scaling the surfaces that are solid seem to have almost a baked silver like finish with black spots. Sounds weird I know. I this a normal thing?
Click to expand...

My needle scaler produces a finish which could be described as above, so probably normal.. the black spots are probably where the rust has eaten in beyond the reach of the needles IME.. ( I.E. smaller pits than the needles )..

Blasting with grit will get into these pits - or chemical conversion will also deal with them..

A pic will confirm..
 
Got mine out a few weeks ago to tackle a wheel. It only knocks the surface about so another treatment will be necessary. I’ll be blasting the wheels before paint and probably soaking in fertan.
 
The metal seems pretty solid. In fact I really thought the gun did a nice job, better than I anticipated. Plan to hit with an angle grinder today to clean it up a bit before it gets too wet and snow comes.
I took pics but I haven't been successful posting them, keep getting error message. Something about im not allow to or I don't belong here ... nonsense.
After giving it a sanding, is oxide paint enough for protection with over coat later or something else. Any special prep on recently clean areas before paint?
Thanks
 
Yes the hammerite finish is normal, I use mine a bit at work mainly on brakes and hubs/wheels, also great for welding prep (mig and stick) and slag removal after stick welding.
 
Rhode rover said:
The metal seems pretty solid. In fact I really thought the gun did a nice job, better than I anticipated. Plan to hit with an angle grinder today to clean it up a bit before it gets too wet and snow comes.
I took pics but I haven't been successful posting them, keep getting error message. Something about im not allow to or I don't belong here ... nonsense.
After giving it a sanding, is oxide paint enough for protection with over coat later or something else. Any special prep on recently clean areas before paint?
Thanks
Click to expand...
Copy, then paste directly into the reply box works for most of us.
 
Bobsticle said:
soaking in fertan.
Click to expand...

+1 - Fertan in very good IME.

Rhode rover said:
is oxide paint enough for protection with over coat later or something else.
Click to expand...

I use bonda primer - nasty and very good at sticking IME - the original oxide paints were very good, but since the lead was removed, they don't seem to work ... I then overcoat with Tractol enamel - this will stand up to cow sh*t - so, in other words is good stuff ...:)

Bonda Primer:-

https://shop.autopaintsbrighton.co.uk/bonda-anti-rust-fast-drying-zinc-primer-5316-p.asp

Tractol enamel:-

https://www.smithandallan.com/tractol-paint

Rhode rover said:
Any special prep on recently clean areas before paint?
Click to expand...

Degrease the area with brake cleaner / panel wipe etc ...;)
 
Disco1BFG said:
+1 - Fertan in very good IME.



I use bonda primer - nasty and very good at sticking IME - the original oxide paints were very good, but since the lead was removed, they don't seem to work ... I then overcoat with Tractol enamel - this will stand up to cow sh*t - so, in other words is good stuff ...:)

Bonda Primer:-

https://shop.autopaintsbrighton.co.uk/bonda-anti-rust-fast-drying-zinc-primer-5316-p.asp

Tractol enamel:-

https://www.smithandallan.com/tractol-paint



Degrease the area with brake cleaner / panel wipe etc ...;)
Click to expand...
You can now buy red lead primer again in the UK. Google Traditional Boat Supplies.

No idea if it was ever banned in the US, though.
 
The one thing that perplexes me is Fertan has to be removed with water.
Kind of strange when steel motorway bridges have to be painted within an hour of blasting on a dry day as that’s when the steel begins to oxidise.
Probably down to ten minutes once your bare car part has been wetted down.
 
Bobsticle said:
The one thing that perplexes me is Fertan has to be removed with water.
Kind of strange when steel motorway bridges have to be painted within an hour of blasting on a dry day as that’s when the steel begins to oxidise.
Probably down to ten minutes once your bare car part has been wetted down.
Click to expand...
As far as I can remember, treatments like Fertan are Phosphoric acid. So if there are any residues left over, it is probably not good for your skin, or adhesion of paints, etc.
 
Fertan goes on quite thin then thickens up. By the time you come to wash it off it’s like a thin coat of marmite. Comes off easily enough but only with water. I’ve tried thinners and the like but no luck.
 
Well...I've got good new/ bad new, at least for me.
I hit the area of chassis I was working on with wire wheel , used brake cleaner on surface the coated with a Rust-Oleum product for rusted surfaces. Decided on this product 1) availability 2) cost 3) what I felt as a good quality paint for my need. I didn't want to spend a lot on primer when I'm really not sure if the chassis is salvageable. Totally pleased with outcome...my ambition got a shot of adrenaline.
Now the bad new, in my infinite wisdom i managed to basically tear off 1/2 of a tip on my finger( on another project). So I think further progress will be halted for a bit.
To be continued ....
 
Rhode rover said:
Well...I've got good new/ bad new, at least for me.
I hit the area of chassis I was working on with wire wheel , used brake cleaner on surface the coated with a Rust-Oleum product for rusted surfaces. Decided on this product 1) availability 2) cost 3) what I felt as a good quality paint for my need. I didn't want to spend a lot on primer when I'm really not sure if the chassis is salvageable. Totally pleased with outcome...my ambition got a shot of adrenaline.
Now the bad new, in my infinite wisdom i managed to basically tear off 1/2 of a tip on my finger( on another project). So I think further progress will be halted for a bit.
To be continued ....
Click to expand...
Last year I ran out of black topcoat while I was painting the boat.
There was a Wilko nearby, and I bought one litre of Rustoleum paint, it is meant to be primer as well, but I used it over primer.
It has been just as good as International, and very much cheaper. Doubt you will get a problem with that.
 
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