thanks martyuk he link on testing the door latch would b great ,as you say its getting in the vehicle that is number one priority
 
When you turn the key in the drivers door, can you feel any resistance? or is it kind of free? If there's nothing then I'd have to agree with wammers, you either knocked something when replacing the latch and using the key finished it off, or it was on it's last legs anyway and bum timing for you, died when you least needed it to. I'm thinking the only option now is break a window?



Sorry Mr Wammers, I'll put myself in the naughty corner :cool:
Breaking a window is not necessary, check your messages Chris.;)
 
Half an hour ?????more like 3 minutes tony !!!!!!!!!! even less on the wirrall al .....ho ho ho

Come on Mozz they are more organised these days, 3 mins to open yes, but 27 minutes to put the parts on eBay first. :D:D:D
 
thanks martyuk he link on testing the door latch would b great ,as you say its getting in the vehicle that is number one priority

Here's a link to the file on testing the door latch switches:
http://marty-lx.co.uk/docs/P38_Latch_Tests.pdf

It should download (or open in your web browser depending on what you are using - but you can then save it to your computer).
Any issues with it, then let drop me a PM with your email address and I'll email it over.

Marty
 
Here's a link to the file on testing the door latch switches:
http://marty-lx.co.uk/docs/P38_Latch_Tests.pdf

It should download (or open in your web browser depending on what you are using - but you can then save it to your computer).
Any issues with it, then let drop me a PM with your email address and I'll email it over.

Marty
thanks for this pretty insightful guide why cant this be in the workshop book , ill give at while later
Breaking a window is not necessary, check your messages Chris.;)
 
your a slow pensioner al .... the last 5 p38s took me average of 90 seconds to get in them !!!!!!!!!!!! that's one and a half minutes to you ,,,,,,
 
your a slow pensioner al .... the last 5 p38s took me average of 90 seconds to get in them !!!!!!!!!!!! that's one and a half minutes to you ,,,,,,
Not yet you cake munching Manc, I told you it's next weekend. Bet you had the key's for all five, the ninety seconds was trying to lift your old carcase into the seat.:p:D:D:D
 
Sorry to highjack some else's thread but how easy is it to get a hold of the EKA code ,after reading this post I think it might be a handy thing to have ?.
 
Sorry to highjack some else's thread but how easy is it to get a hold of the EKA code ,after reading this post I think it might be a handy thing to have ?.
Easy if you have the reg. certificate and identification, go to your local Main Stealer and ask for it. They shouldn't charge for it, but I got charged by those robbing barstewards in Chester.
 
My local dealer in Swindon gave it to me free, over the phone aswell when I first found my battery flat and KEYCODE LOCKOUT on the dash the day after getting it home!

You shouldn't get charged for it - but I wouldn't put it past them, that's for sure!!!
 
guess im looking for a drop in voltage while the fob is being pressed , are these common for failing ? and doe other active car alarms really interfere with these units ,(just what I read is all )
 

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