Hi guys and girls , I'm a newbie to all this forum larc , im woundering if someone can help with the issuie ive got with a friends p38 , so ill start at the very start , so she bought the car a few weeks ago , but the car wouldn't lock on the fob but would unlock on it , every no and the she'd get in and the dash would say engine immoberlised so she would get out enter the code get in and off she went , right so when it came to me for a oil , filter and coolant flush , pfft this was a doddle , right , up to the point where I got in and nothing , tried code nothing , anyway weve replaced the door lock , wich when you enter the code the indicators falsh but I still cant start the car , having been well and truly locked out the car atm , im getting a little pevved , ive brought her a brand new fob case as the old one was trashed so that all lights up fine but doesn't seem to wanna resync , Ive checked every fuse and they all come back fine tested continuity in the cabels for any breaks in the and all seem, like ive said ive tried the code , tried locking with key and pressing fob to resyn , ive pretty much tried everything ,orther than putting a match to the dam thing , Would a bad earth cause a issue like this , heeeellllpppppp fffoooorrr thee love of my sanity,, help
ukadamwest
Well-Known Member
The key could be worn out. Be warned.. you cannot get a replacement key off flea-bay, it's main dealer item and needs to be either key 1,2 (or 3 or4) you cant have two key 1's or two key 2's.
Check the battery condition and alternator output. The P38 doesn't like weak electrics at all and will throw a hissy fit if the battery is weak or the alternator output is low.
I'm thinking this as you mentioned that it wont unlock.. presumably when it's been standing, but will lock.. after use presumably when the battery is at max after being used.
tomcat59alan
Well-Known Member
Do you mean the door latch and not the lock? What engine is it? If it's petrol contact Mozz Smith. If it's diesel you will need Nanocom or similar to resync.Where did you get the new key from?
If you lock the car with the fob and unlock it with the key you will get engine immobilised on the dash. You then have to enter the EKA code to mobilise the engine. You CANNOT sync the keys with engine immobilised showing. You need to enter the EKA code successfully before you can sync the fob. You can enter the EKA code with Nanocom IF the BECM is PAM V36 or better, otherwise the Nanocom DISARM function will not work. And EKA code must be enterered via door lock. If this is a diesel and you do not have engine immobilised showing but the engine turns over and does not start, the security code has gone out of sync. You will need Nanocom or similar diag to resync the security code into BECM from engine ECU. This is a totally different operation to the EKA code or syncing the fob and nothing to do with either. The ECM security code CANNOT be synced by playing with door locks.
mozz smith
Well-Known Member
Well done wammy , well put and all correct ,,,ive taught you well my friend !!!!!!!..happy new year . mozz
mozz smith
Well-Known Member
ha ha ha , cheers mate ,,, had a good natter with the plastic scouser earlier ... " alan "
hi guys thanks for the replysfirst of all it as only the door latch I replaced not the key or lock , its the bmw engine , even entering the eka doesn't allow me to start the engine , even though im entering the right on , and as I said the hazards flash when doing thins but wont allow the car to start , as the origanl door catch wasn't working propely , and was full of water ,but now the door decided its gonna stay shut and not open at all , sooooo it seems im locked out completey , this is a problem for me , as well as my friend as she has mobility issues as well as living in the middle of nowhere a car is quiet important ,im sure there must be someone that can oint me in the right direction , ,
Something has fallen off the door lock you fitted if you can't open it with the key. Bit to late to say ALWAYS have a window open when playing with locks on these.
P38Penguin
Active Member
Doesn't it lock you out completely after 3 ish attempts, then you have to wait for the system to reset? Funnily enough I read something in the manual that said after 2 attempts to open and close the door, resets the counter I think.
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The EKA code is the fail safe. If you don't know what you are doing and the car thinks you are nicking it then it won't play with you. If you now cannot open the car with the key which is a mechanical function, and you cannot input the EKA code then i would bet the lock latch is disconnected from the key barrel mechanism.
If you input the wrong EKA code three times you cannot try again for 30 minutes. You are locked out of further attempts NOT out of the car. Opening the door after two incorrect tries lets you make two further attempts. Providing you open and close the drivers door after two fails you can try all day. I have repeated that info on here to the point of nausea but nobody ever seems to listen.
P38Penguin
Active Member
When you turn the key in the drivers door, can you feel any resistance? or is it kind of free? If there's nothing then I'd have to agree with wammers, you either knocked something when replacing the latch and using the key finished it off, or it was on it's last legs anyway and bum timing for you, died when you least needed it to. I'm thinking the only option now is break a window?
Sorry Mr Wammers, I'll put myself in the naughty corner
Sorry Mr Wammers, I'll put myself in the naughty corner
martyuk
Well-Known Member
If you can't unlock or open the drivers door manually, then there's no hope of putting the EKA in at the moment.
You are going to have to gain access to the vehicle somehow to then get the door card back off and find out what has become disconnected from the latch. If it's the locking rod, you may be lucky and be able to get something in the top of the door to hook the sill locking button and then open the door from the outside with the handle. If the door locks/unlocks with the key, then there is hope that you could still enter the EKA and this will then unlock the other doors, so you would gain access.
The biggest thing with the EKA is patience - I know it's stressful not being able to get into the vehicle and it's easy to rush trying to get the code entered.
If you have KEYCODE LOCKOUT on the dash, you need to wait for 30mins before this disappears and then it will listen for the code.
First to put the code in you generally (except some really early ones) have to turn the key to the 'lock' position 4 times to tell the BECM that you want to enter the EKA. Depending on your alarm settings you might see the indicators flash once for each turn of the key. 4 flashes means it's now listening for the EKA. If the alarm isn't set to flash then you will have to go on feel as to whether it has tripped the switch or not.
When turning the key, ALWAYS start at centre and then turn FULLY to either the lock or unlock position. Hold it there for half a second and then smoothly back to the centre.
Once you have done the first 4 turns, there is no external visual indication of the vehicle accepting the EKA, however the side light lamp on the instrument cluster will now flash ONCE for each turn of the key that the vehicle has seen. So again slowly and smoothly enter the first digit of EKA by turning to unlock and back to centre the number of times in the code. You may need to cover the windscreen with something to make it dark enough to see the side light lamp flash, but as you are entering the EKA digits, count the number of flashes you see to match to the EKA number.
Then continue this for second digit, back to lock -
Third digit back to unlock,
Fourth digit back to lock,
and finally one turn back to unlock. Assuming the vehicle has accepted the code, then it will pop all the doors, let you sync the key and allow the engine to start.
In some cases, the BECM can go into an alarmed state where it will lock out all attempts at entering the EKA - it will just ignore them. In this case you would need to send the BECM to someone (like myself if you wish or other BECM specialist companies) who have the direct CPU access tools, which will then be able to reset the alarmed status, and EKA lockout so you would then be able to plug the BECM back in and get it running again. Complete lockout situations aren't as common as garages/dealers will have you believe - the biggest thing it to make sure the door latch is working properly and the microswitches aren't playing up.
I have done a writeup which I can link you to if you want a simple set of tests for the door latch microswitches. I wrote them when I started refurbishing door latches to make it easier for me to test them once they were rebuilt, but posted them up on another couple of forums as there were a load of people that were having issues and I figured it was useful to info for others to have. Also, unless the door latch was brand new that was fitted, there is no guarantee that it won't have a dodgy switch - the number I have had people send me as ones they have bought as replacements that are 'tested' by the breakers they get them from is amazing. I think that if it comes out of a running vehicle and locks/unlocks the door on the button and remote, then it's "tested" but they haven't bothered to actually check the microswitches.
But back to the point in hand. First things first is to get the door open, and then you can work logically again from there.
Hope this helps,
Marty
You are going to have to gain access to the vehicle somehow to then get the door card back off and find out what has become disconnected from the latch. If it's the locking rod, you may be lucky and be able to get something in the top of the door to hook the sill locking button and then open the door from the outside with the handle. If the door locks/unlocks with the key, then there is hope that you could still enter the EKA and this will then unlock the other doors, so you would gain access.
The biggest thing with the EKA is patience - I know it's stressful not being able to get into the vehicle and it's easy to rush trying to get the code entered.
If you have KEYCODE LOCKOUT on the dash, you need to wait for 30mins before this disappears and then it will listen for the code.
First to put the code in you generally (except some really early ones) have to turn the key to the 'lock' position 4 times to tell the BECM that you want to enter the EKA. Depending on your alarm settings you might see the indicators flash once for each turn of the key. 4 flashes means it's now listening for the EKA. If the alarm isn't set to flash then you will have to go on feel as to whether it has tripped the switch or not.
When turning the key, ALWAYS start at centre and then turn FULLY to either the lock or unlock position. Hold it there for half a second and then smoothly back to the centre.
Once you have done the first 4 turns, there is no external visual indication of the vehicle accepting the EKA, however the side light lamp on the instrument cluster will now flash ONCE for each turn of the key that the vehicle has seen. So again slowly and smoothly enter the first digit of EKA by turning to unlock and back to centre the number of times in the code. You may need to cover the windscreen with something to make it dark enough to see the side light lamp flash, but as you are entering the EKA digits, count the number of flashes you see to match to the EKA number.
Then continue this for second digit, back to lock -
Third digit back to unlock,
Fourth digit back to lock,
and finally one turn back to unlock. Assuming the vehicle has accepted the code, then it will pop all the doors, let you sync the key and allow the engine to start.
In some cases, the BECM can go into an alarmed state where it will lock out all attempts at entering the EKA - it will just ignore them. In this case you would need to send the BECM to someone (like myself if you wish or other BECM specialist companies) who have the direct CPU access tools, which will then be able to reset the alarmed status, and EKA lockout so you would then be able to plug the BECM back in and get it running again. Complete lockout situations aren't as common as garages/dealers will have you believe - the biggest thing it to make sure the door latch is working properly and the microswitches aren't playing up.
I have done a writeup which I can link you to if you want a simple set of tests for the door latch microswitches. I wrote them when I started refurbishing door latches to make it easier for me to test them once they were rebuilt, but posted them up on another couple of forums as there were a load of people that were having issues and I figured it was useful to info for others to have. Also, unless the door latch was brand new that was fitted, there is no guarantee that it won't have a dodgy switch - the number I have had people send me as ones they have bought as replacements that are 'tested' by the breakers they get them from is amazing. I think that if it comes out of a running vehicle and locks/unlocks the door on the button and remote, then it's "tested" but they haven't bothered to actually check the microswitches.
But back to the point in hand. First things first is to get the door open, and then you can work logically again from there.
Hope this helps,
Marty
