Stuballsed

Stuballsed

New Member
Morning All

Oh dear, new noise, think it's gearbox. I will try and describe:

When comming off the power, still in gear, any gear, sound like a playing card in a bicycle wheel (remember that!) only very dull, low pitched and kind of muffled. Frequency drops with reducing speed.

If I dip clutch, no difference, if I pop it out of gear it stops. If i put power back on it stops. Not had chance to get underneath and check fluid level, will do so tonight.

Any ideas?????:(
 
Another clue??
On the weekend I changed my handbrake cable, with all the strip drum down that involves. But getly appling handbrake when slowing makes no difference and I just felt the drum after a 35 mile drive and it is not hot:confused:

It is possible I turned the UJ when I put the prop back on! Could this be the cause??
 
Teeth stripping somewhere take the PTO cover off the back of the transfer box and see what the input gear cog is like. Alsoi have you tried coasting with HI/LO BOX in Neutral?
 
I don't know but when you find out what it is let me know, cos mines doing the same thing.
I've changed almost everything, rear bearing, half shafts, transfer box & hand brake drum. The only time it stopped for any lengh of time was when I changed the hand brake drum. The only thing I haven't changed is the rear prop, which I'm looking at doing soon.
 
just a thought, when you took the back prop off to do the h/brake shoes, did you pull the prop apart? if so did you re align the two parts correctly?? if the UJ's are not in line it could cause vibration and increased wear in the UJ's. this could happen even if your out by one spline.
 
Mines a wide angle prop which when new is already set so the joints are at 45 deg to each other.
 
redhand said:
Teeth stripping somewhere take the PTO cover off the back of the transfer box and see what the input gear cog is like. Alsoi have you tried coasting with HI/LO BOX in Neutral?
Click to expand...

I will give it a try. It actually still makes the noise when out of gear, just not as much.
 
-Defender110- said:
just a thought, when you took the back prop off to do the h/brake shoes, did you pull the prop apart? if so did you re align the two parts correctly?? if the UJ's are not in line it could cause vibration and increased wear in the UJ's. this could happen even if your out by one spline.
Click to expand...

No I did'nt split the prop. Hung it to the side held up by cable ties, all propper like:) Is it possible to turn it out of alignment, even by a 1/4 when I put it back on?? I guess not:(
 
if your going to take pto cover off just feel if theres any free play in intermediate cluster ,that could cause it and can be adjusted by tightening rear nut ,wont be input splines that would just clunk on take up and release of drive , gears are helical so when you apply power they thrust one way on over run they thrust the other ,which if somethings worn may mean they catch other components or run on a part of gear not worn in causing a whine , knocking it out of gear on over run reduces the forces which give the thrust as engine braking is no longer an effect ,mud shields can catch if bearings have movement and may only show up on power or over run ,checking oil for contamination ,removing one prop at a time can help localise problem
 
jamesmartin said:
if your going to take pto cover off just feel if theres any free play in intermediate cluster ,that could cause it and can be adjusted by tightening rear nut
Click to expand...
Could this cause the transfer box to 'rattle'? After a long drive at constant high speed i.e. dual carriageway when coming off the power and at the point where you are neither accelerating or decelerating my transfer box rattles horrendously. Continue to come off the power and start decelerating or putting it back on stops it. Doesn't tend to do it during normal driving only higher-speeds and when the box gets quite hot. It does leak oil out of the intermediate shaft after it's been on a 20min+ constant drive (I guess anyway - it comes from higher up the box and drips down).

Or is this more likely to be the diff washers worn?

Sorry for slight hijack. :eek:
 
Tom.JTC said:
Could this cause the transfer box to 'rattle'? After a long drive at constant high speed i.e. dual carriageway when coming off the power and at the point where you are neither accelerating or decelerating my transfer box rattles horrendously. Continue to come off the power and start decelerating or putting it back on stops it. Doesn't tend to do it during normal driving only higher-speeds and when the box gets quite hot. It does leak oil out of the intermediate shaft after it's been on a 20min+ constant drive (I guess anyway - it comes from higher up the box and drips down).

Or is this more likely to be the diff washers worn?

Sorry for slight hijack. :eek:
Click to expand...
could be its not uncommon to find play in the intermediate gear ,often unnoticed ,input can also have end float as can diff, but intermediate is most likely ,removing sump plate allows you to check all 3 , the front hole of intermediate shaft oftens leak and hole can wear allowing shaft to chatter under cetain conditions , ive often had to pull t/box back on guide studs or remove box totally to allow shaft to be pushed forward enough to fit a new o ring and silicone on box side all round shaft so silicone gets pulled into o ring as shaft is retightened which involves adjusting nut till all free play has gone
 
jamesmartin said:
could be its not uncommon to find play in the intermediate gear ,often unnoticed ,input can also have end float as can diff, but intermediate is most likely ,removing sump plate allows you to check all 3 , the front hole of intermediate shaft oftens leak and hole can wear allowing shaft to chatter under cetain conditions , ive often had to pull t/box back on guide studs or remove box totally to allow shaft to be pushed forward enough to fit a new o ring and silicone on box side all round shaft so silicone gets pulled into o ring as shaft is retightened which involves adjusting nut till all free play has gone
Click to expand...

Thanks James - what's involved in taking up the play in the shaft if there is any? Is it a fairly easy in-situ job or is it a bit more involved?
 
jamesmartin said:
30mm socket and long bar an carefully nip the rear nut up till play goes ,restake nut with a chisel
Click to expand...

Brilliant cheers :)

Will add it to the list of stuff to do eventually, just put new oil in it so don't want to be draining it out just yet.
 
redhand said:
Also have you tried coasting with HI/LO BOX in Neutral?
Click to expand...

Hmmm. Out of gear and in HI/LOW neutral, quiter, but still there:confused:

Effing MOT in the morning!! Typical. But not an MOT issue me thinks.

Good thing is I have tomorrow off work to investigate.

Edit: If all else fails, I'll just have to get another pair of speakers and an amp! :)
 
Turns out mine was front bush on trailing arms, the front of the diff was moving up & down which was making it sound like the prop was running out.
At last mine is sorted.
 
Well, in case anyon is interested, turned out the rear diff was completely shot. The gear teath had chunks missing and best of all the pin was in four peices sitting in the bottom of the diff housing.:eek:

Sorry no pics:eek:

I'm amazed it was still turning. Needless to say, situation much inproved with refurbed diff fitted.:)
 
My car done a similar thing a few weeks back, it was right after my rear diff blew up so I thought I'd damaged the transfer box or gear box, turns out I just hadn't selected "high no diff lock" so something wasn't working properly.
 
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