tomcat59alan
Well-Known Member
I think there's a solinoid that gives problems with the ignition/steering column. Try a search.
badfluffy
Well-Known Member
thats interesting his steering lock is permanently free
tomcat59alan
Well-Known Member
Perhaps somethings broken in there.
tomcat59alan
Well-Known Member
I'm sure that has been posted on here before, hopefully someone will remember the problem and solution. Good luck.
Tricky of York
Well-Known Member
Hello folks, I think this thread of mine will help shed some light on the subject. Half way through you’ll find it starts again and then again for Goldrover.
https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-ro...-2005-4-2-supercharged-will-not-start.312101/
Essentially, bad earth (engine to chassis) plus others - water ingress behind the fuse box, in the cabin and in the boot - low battery volts or dead cells.
All or any of the above can and will cause the symptom being described here. In my case i had to disconnect the battery every night for several weeks before the electrical circuits got their s..t together.
It’s as though the bad earth throws all the coms out of sync with error codes displayed at will. Stay calm be methodical and make sure you have over 13 volts, clean earth point connections and no moisture in the glove box or boot.
Keep us posted on your progress. Tricky
https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-ro...-2005-4-2-supercharged-will-not-start.312101/
Essentially, bad earth (engine to chassis) plus others - water ingress behind the fuse box, in the cabin and in the boot - low battery volts or dead cells.
All or any of the above can and will cause the symptom being described here. In my case i had to disconnect the battery every night for several weeks before the electrical circuits got their s..t together.
It’s as though the bad earth throws all the coms out of sync with error codes displayed at will. Stay calm be methodical and make sure you have over 13 volts, clean earth point connections and no moisture in the glove box or boot.
Keep us posted on your progress. Tricky
Tricky of York
Well-Known Member
Yes that’s part of the problem as the electrics control the release of the key to rotate in the barrel. I had exactly the same symptom as well as all the dash lights and non-starting. The fault codes would change every time they were reset, nothing made sense even to LR trained technicians with all the software and testing procedures. It was as if every module had stopped communicating in the correct sequence. I still have the new immobiliser they sold me but didn’t need.
Tricky
Tricky
tomcat59alan
Well-Known Member
My memory must be improving.Yes that’s part of the problem as the electrics control the release of the key to rotate in the barrel. I had exactly the same symptom as well as all the dash lights and non-starting. The fault codes would change every time they were reset, nothing made sense even to LR trained technicians with all the software and testing procedures. It was as if every module had stopped communicating in the correct sequence. I still have the new immobiliser they sold me but didn’t need.
Tricky
badfluffy
Well-Known Member
well it appears google is my friend https://blackbox-solutions.com/photos/L322lock.pdf,
Tricky of York
Well-Known Member
I too saw this solution on another forum at the time but was nervous about drilling into a component with a very hefty replacement cost if I got it wrong. I believe this to be a good solution in theory if you aren’t the one paying if it doesn’t go well (a stray piece of swarf). I can report that my method also worked and the fault never returned, without drilling anything. Let us know how it goes please.
Tricky
Tricky
