badfluffy

badfluffy

Well-Known Member
So business partner take his l322 td6 to mot station, locks car gives them the key, some time later get a call saying key don't work, of down to garage with spare key and neither will turn in ignition i know @goldrover had same problem but anyone have any ideas
 
badfluffy said:
So business partner take his l322 td6 to mot station, locks car gives them the key, some time later get a call saying key don't work, of down to garage with spare key and neither will turn in ignition i know @goldrover had same problem but anyone have any ideas
Click to expand...
I think there's a solinoid that gives problems with the ignition/steering column. Try a search.
 
it gets more confusing disconnect battery, reconnect and it starts just once then needs battery off to start again
 
Hello folks, I think this thread of mine will help shed some light on the subject. Half way through you’ll find it starts again and then again for Goldrover.

https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-ro...-2005-4-2-supercharged-will-not-start.312101/

Essentially, bad earth (engine to chassis) plus others - water ingress behind the fuse box, in the cabin and in the boot - low battery volts or dead cells.

All or any of the above can and will cause the symptom being described here. In my case i had to disconnect the battery every night for several weeks before the electrical circuits got their s..t together.

It’s as though the bad earth throws all the coms out of sync with error codes displayed at will. Stay calm be methodical and make sure you have over 13 volts, clean earth point connections and no moisture in the glove box or boot.

Keep us posted on your progress. Tricky :)
 
no the problem is the key not turning, once it turns (by disconnecting battery then reconnecting ) she starts first time
 
Yes that’s part of the problem as the electrics control the release of the key to rotate in the barrel. I had exactly the same symptom as well as all the dash lights and non-starting. The fault codes would change every time they were reset, nothing made sense even to LR trained technicians with all the software and testing procedures. It was as if every module had stopped communicating in the correct sequence. I still have the new immobiliser they sold me but didn’t need.
Tricky :)
 
Tricky of York said:
Yes that’s part of the problem as the electrics control the release of the key to rotate in the barrel. I had exactly the same symptom as well as all the dash lights and non-starting. The fault codes would change every time they were reset, nothing made sense even to LR trained technicians with all the software and testing procedures. It was as if every module had stopped communicating in the correct sequence. I still have the new immobiliser they sold me but didn’t need.
Tricky :)
Click to expand...
My memory must be improving.:D:D
 
I too saw this solution on another forum at the time but was nervous about drilling into a component with a very hefty replacement cost if I got it wrong. I believe this to be a good solution in theory if you aren’t the one paying if it doesn’t go well (a stray piece of swarf). I can report that my method also worked and the fault never returned, without drilling anything. Let us know how it goes please.
Tricky :)
 
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