Roof tent?
We Freelander owners have such clean, coiffeured hair (we do each other's) that they allow us to stay in hotels.
Which we can afford to do as we don't have to spend all our money on rust prevention and welding wire.
 
Grezzer said:
It pains me to say, but freelancer!!! Buy a RAV 4, the one my missus as is brill.
Click to expand...
If one is considering buying a Toyota for reliability, post #9 on this thread rather kills that urban myth. Statistics don't tell porkies (when you want to believe the results).

I can confirm those stats though as for the last 14 years we have had a Starlet as a 2nd car and backup to which ever Landie has been sitting with it on the drive. In that time its only job has been to start when the Landie won't, and its failed spectacularly in that only requirement. Yes, about 6 years ago the battery was stuffed and it wouldn't start - bloody useless - don't know why we've relied on it for so long.

Admittedly my daughter used it for a 25 mile daily commute to Lincoln Uni for 3 years. Before that it was used on a 40 mile twice daily school run for a year when it was costing a fortune to do it in the D1V8. Plus of course, when we had the D1V8 there were a lot of days when that wouldn't start.

So it has been used quite a bit for a 25 year old car - but even so that does not warrant such horrendous reliability :)
 
Grezzer said:
It pains me to say, but freelancer!!! Buy a RAV 4, the one my missus as is brill.
Click to expand...
Yes, Toyotas. Good till 100,000 miles or so (when most of us tend to buy cars) then they start to go wrong, and don't stop going wrong. The parts are hideously expensive and hard to fit. If you must have a soul-less Toyota, keep it new. Don't let it get old or it'll turn into a Gremlin.

My original post was inspired by the countless threads on here about Td4 and VCU trouble. If you buy a Td4 FL for about £2500 then maybe it's worth budgeting up to £500 extra for a routine change of the parts that go wrong, especially if your other half's going to be using it.

This could extend to almost anything, but I mainly meant those bits that will stop the car from working without warning.

So, the missus's next FL will get:
1. Starter solenoid repair kit, £10
2. FPR O ring kit, £10, FPS loom if needed
3. New fuel pump and filter, ?£150
4. Recon VCU swapped over
5. Battery £60

As well as a good service and inspection of tyres, vac and boost hoses etc.

Other things mentioned like window regs and boot handle - yes, I have done all that, but they're more 'rainy Sunday' jobs and won't stop the car from moving.

I've left off clutch and slave, hoping that it will fail gradually because a)It's £150 and b) It's an arse of a job.
 
Nodge68 said:
Buy an auto and avoid the clutch problems;)
Click to expand...
+1
The joys of an autobox. Just give it an oil change and your off:)
I won't be going back to manual boxes for my own cars again.

Did I mention I also have a Jeep, that's an auto as well:D

Mike
 
Avoid the auto and you'll save enough on fuel that you can pay someone to swap the clutch out every other year - and the years you don't swap the clutch pay for a family holiday!
 
Auto Vs manual g'box for a 4WD. There's a thought provoking examination of this from this fellow in Western Australia. Ronny Dahl
 
GrumpyGel said:
Avoid the auto and you'll save enough on fuel that you can pay someone to swap the clutch out every other year - and the years you don't swap the clutch pay for a family holiday!
Click to expand...
Not so sure about that, a clutch kit costs about £80, that's 2466 miles at current UK costs. Then there's the fly wheel to replace every two to three clutches, dual mass around £400 thats 12333 miles, then there's that nice cylinder that either falls off or sizes up, around £50 thats 1541 miles.
That's working on my auto that averages 37mpg. And costs about £50 every 18 months for some ATF fluid.
Plus when an auto throws a fit you get limp mode that will get you home.
When a manual throws a fit, your usually sat in the middle of a roundabout with no gears waiting for recovery, whilst everybody swears at you;)

I'll stick with my autobox:)
Mike
 
I don't like autos because...
1. Poor mpg
2. Can't tow
3. Can't bump start
4. Fine when they work, but if they go wrong... Ouch. ££££££

However...
1. Better off-road as they compensate for lack of low range
2. I would give my left knee for an auto box when in heavy traffic with my Defender
 
guineafowl21 said:
I don't like autos because...
1. Poor mpg
2. Can't tow
3. Can't bump start
4. Fine when they work, but if they go wrong... Ouch. ££££££

However...
1. Better off-road as they compensate for lack of low range
2. I would give my left knee for an auto box when in heavy traffic with my Defender
Click to expand...

Poor mpg? Mine averages 37mpg

Can't tow? Used mine for towing for years, a 1500kg caravan, averaged 29 mpg

Cant bump start, no true, but I would never bump start a diesel or a petrol for that matter. If it won't start, fix it.

Go wrong ££££, that is true, but if you look after it, there seriously more reliable than a manual box.

Yes, they are alot better off road, virtually no wheel spin, correct gear always.

Sitting in traffic, my left knee really likes that one:)

Mike
 
Skinny Mike said:
Not so sure about that, a clutch kit costs about £80, that's 2466 miles at current UK costs. Then there's the fly wheel to replace every two to three clutches, dual mass around £400 thats 12333 miles, then there's that nice cylinder that either falls off or sizes up, around £50 thats 1541 miles.
That's working on my auto that averages 37mpg. And costs about £50 every 18 months for some ATF fluid.
Plus when an auto throws a fit you get limp mode that will get you home.
When a manual throws a fit, your usually sat in the middle of a roundabout with no gears waiting for recovery, whilst everybody swears at you;)

I'll stick with my autobox:)
Mike
Click to expand...
A decent Td4 clutch kit and slave is £150. In my experience, the original will last upwards of 150,000 miles, and the factory DMF will outlast the car. One clutch kit in 300,000 miles. Not too bad.

(Figures correct as of GF21's experience. Your clutch life may go up as well as down. Seek independent advice before making a purchase. GF21 is not authorised or regulated by LZ.)
 
Skinny Mike said:
Poor mpg? Mine averages 37mpg

Can't tow? Used mine for towing for years, a 1500kg caravan, averaged 29 mpg

Cant bump start, no true, but I would never bump start a diesel or a petrol for that matter. If it won't start, fix it.

Go wrong ££££, that is true, but if you look after it, there seriously more reliable than a manual box.

Yes, they are alot better off road, virtually no wheel spin, correct gear always.

Sitting in traffic, my left knee really likes that one:)

Mike
Click to expand...
A manual has better mpg, though.
I meant you can't tow IT, as in when it breaks down
Bump start can be handy, why would you never do it? Gets you out of a jam - I don't mean as a regular thing (!)
 
guineafowl21 said:
A manual has better mpg, though.
I meant you can't tow IT, as in when it breaks down
Bump start can be handy, why would you never do it? Gets you out of a jam - I don't mean as a regular thing (!)
Click to expand...

Towing an auto is the same as a manual Freelander. Best not to! But if you have to, put it in neutral, all four wheels on the floor, don't exceed 30mph and not for any long distance.
But as ever with both manual and auto Freelanders and most other 4x4 systems, put it on a low loader.

Out of interest, what mpg are you getting. Mine does between 29 towing, upto 45 on a long run, not towing.

Mike
 
Skinny Mike said:
Towing an auto is the same as a manual Freelander. Best not to! But if you have to, put it in neutral, all four wheels on the floor, don't exceed 30mph and not for any long distance.
But as ever with both manual and auto Freelanders and most other 4x4 systems, put it on a low loader.

Out of interest, what mpg are you getting. Mine does between 29 towing, upto 45 on a long run, not towing.

Mike
Click to expand...
Oh, I thought 4-wheel towing an auto was a no-no.

The wife, not a slow driver, routinely returns about 40 mpg. You're doing VERY well if you get 45 from an auto Td4 - @Nodge68 says he gets 29 from his, I think.
 
guineafowl21 said:
Is this the Synergy 1?
Click to expand...
Synergy 2A. I only have the tuning part plugged in. I don't use the MAF compensater, it's taped up out of the way.
Clever piece of kit. Really ups the torque, especially low down in the rev range, where the Freelander is lacking without one.
Mike
 
htr said:
Auto Vs manual g'box for a 4WD. There's a thought provoking examination of this from this fellow in Western Australia. Ronny Dahl
Click to expand...
That's a great video :)
Skinny Mike said:
Mine does between 29 towing, upto 45 on a long run, not towing.
Click to expand...
I think it is mainly around town and slower (twisty turning/hilly) roads where the auto suffers poorer fuel consumption than the manual. Out on the open road where an auto box is locked up, they should return fairly similar. I've never owned an auto Freelander, but IIRC my Disco's auto box used to lock up at about 50mph.
 
Skinny Mike said:
I would never bump start a diesel or a petrol for that matter.
Click to expand...
Why do you say that Mike? Are there reasons why its bad for the car/engine?

After hearing of some of the horror stories on here of electric components being fried (on both cars) by jump starting - I'm thinking bump starting is much safer - maybe I should think again :eek:
 
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