Mine would,
Flash the abs or HDC or handbrake warning intermittently.
Flash F4, but mines an auto box.
Put all the lights on the dash for a while until switched off and back on.
Or work absolutely perfectly.
Bounce the rpm and Speedo around, which was great fun.

Mike
 
Skinny Mike said:
Mine would,
Flash the abs or HDC or handbrake warning intermittently.
Flash F4, but mines an auto box.
Put all the lights on the dash for a while until switched off and back on.
Or work absolutely perfectly.
Bounce the rpm and Speedo around, which was great fun.

Mike
Click to expand...

And what was the solution?
 
Skinny Mike said:
As said, put a new instrument cluster in.
Mike
Click to expand...
I don't know if it's that simple with the FL2 Mike. From memory the Ipack is loaded with VIN details. Fitting another Ipack could well create more problems than it solves. Don't forget that the FL2 is a full Can Bus vehicle;)
 
Don't forget as well that this comms/ABS/ODB setup is the Ford one.

I've just done a Google of U3003 and it looks like a mine field! The results relate to Ford and Mazda (Ford group) cars. There's various people asking questions about it - but I couldn't find anyone who solved it!

I imagine that your i930 is not returning any info the the Bosch one wouldn't or visa-versa. If the Bosch was "so good" the problem would be fixed by now, but I don't think there's much more data from the ODB diags that the i930 isn't seeing.

I think your best bet will be to dig into the Google results a bit more than I did to see if there if any solutions can be found.

The other codes you're getting relating to ABS sensor and hub ring will presumably identify which wheel has the issue - the sensor/hub codes are usually different for each wheel - eg 1001, 1002, 1003 and 1004 (those numbers are made up!). As you are getting both sensor and hub errors, I think it unlikely both have gone - so as suggested before - use the codes as a "hint" of a problem with that corner.
 
I seem to remember that U3003 is a problem on the D3 as well. I think general consensus on the D3 forum was a battery past its best or the voltage regulator in the alternator. When the battery begins to fail. The alternator tries to keep it topped up. Sometimes pumping over 15 volts into the system. This excessive voltage can upset the ECUs. There are about 9 ECUs in the FL2.
 
Last edited:
A decent battery is about £80.
That's got to be on the list. It was one of the first things I did, just to have a definitive starting point.
Then it's checking the abs sensors and connectors.
Then the joyful and seemingly endless job of checking the canbus:confused:
If the setup is indeed a full canbus, then any one if the cars ccu's could generate spurious codes.

It was a nightmare of a job on the FL1. I don't envy you.

Mike
 
Skinny Mike said:
A decent battery is about £80.
That's got to be on the list. It was one of the first things I did, just to have a definitive starting point.
Then it's checking the abs sensors and connectors.
Then the joyful and seemingly endless job of checking the canbus:confused:
If the setup is indeed a full canbus, then any one if the cars ccu's could generate spurious codes.

It was a nightmare of a job on the FL1. I don't envy you.

Mike
Click to expand...
There should never be a need to go round chasing abs sensors, connectors & hubs.

If the ODB does not show any problems with a wheel - then there are definitely no problems with the ABS on or going to that wheel.

I'll rephrase what I said above - if there is a problem with the ABS on a wheel the codes will say which wheel it is - the others will be fine - and if no wheels are showing codes then all the wheels are fine.

If there is an intermittent code is showing relating to a (specific) wheel - then there is an intermittent fault with that wheel. If there are intermittent codes relating to different wheels - then there's probably a problem with the networking (Canbus?) or the ECU itself.
 
GrumpyGel said:
There should never be a need to go round chasing abs sensors, connectors & hubs.

If the ODB does not show any problems with a wheel - then there are definitely no problems with the ABS on or going to that wheel.

I'll rephrase what I said above - if there is a problem with the ABS on a wheel the codes will say which wheel it is - the others will be fine - and if no wheels are showing codes then all the wheels are fine.

If there is an intermittent code is showing relating to a (specific) wheel - then there is an intermittent fault with that wheel. If there are intermittent codes relating to different wheels - then there's probably a problem with the networking (Canbus?) or the ECU itself.
Click to expand...

I understand what your saying.
But when the canbus comms start playing up, it's difficult to stand back and think "aha! My canbus/ccu is knackered"
Cos its very confusing when it does go tits up. Unfortunately you are then forced to check all connectors, just to knock it off the list.

I do wish I had made a video of mine when it did the fault, it would have given a better idea of how confusing it was. Even with the combined knowledge on here, it was very difficult to find the actual fault.
The fact it took 9 months to sort gives an idea of how confusing it was. And I have 2 mechanics and an auto electrician to help me. It even confused the T4 diagnostic machine.

Mike
 
Hi guys
I've just ordered an i930 as I have two amigos so want to find out what the issue is before throwing money at it. I also want to know how the fuel pump etc is performing as it is a tad noisy.
Wishing I'd gone for a pscan now though. :(
 
Alibro said:
Hi guys
I've just ordered an i930 as I have two amigos so want to find out what the issue is before throwing money at it. I also want to know how the fuel pump etc is performing as it is a tad noisy.
Wishing I'd gone for a pscan now though. :(
Click to expand...

I don't know how complete the Pscan unit is but the I930 will do all you need. It's not bad at normal faults. There's more people giving positive feedback than negative. So it's not a waste of money. I have one and the overall impression is good for the tiny amount it costs.
Don't forget that it only needs to find 2 faults at garage rates to pay for itself;)
 
Nodge68 said:
I don't know how complete the Pscan unit is but the I930 will do all you need. It's not bad at normal faults. There's more people giving positive feedback than negative. So it's not a waste of money. I have one and the overall impression is good for the tiny amount it costs.
Don't forget that it only needs to find 2 faults at garage rates to pay for itself;)
Click to expand...
Yeah, I'm happy it will do the job but the pscan sounds like a lot of fun though. I guess if I decide to get a pscan then the i930 will be easy to sell on for only a small loss.
I like the idea of running the pscan on a Rasberry Pi with a small screen in the car for live data.
 
Blimey, what a can of worms......

I've ordered a new battery today to help eliminate one possible problem but frankly I'm more than disappointed that I've bought yet another peice of Land Rover 'unreliability'. I read a many reviews of the F2, read all the potential problems etc. and I seem to be experiencing quite a few of them. Only myself to blame for buying this overated bundle of metallic shyte.
 
Skinny Mike said:
A decent battery is about £80.
That's got to be on the list. It was one of the first things I did, just to have a definitive starting point.
Then it's checking the abs sensors and connectors.
Then the joyful and seemingly endless job of checking the canbus:confused:
If the setup is indeed a full canbus, then any one if the cars ccu's could generate spurious codes.

It was a nightmare of a job on the FL1. I don't envy you.

Mike
Click to expand...

I checked the abs sensors; garaged checked the hub ring sensor...

Sensors are all good but I can't be sure the wheel ring sensor is OK. Bit fed up now...
 
potus said:
As a bonus, I think the icarsoft will also read generic OBD codes from all vehicles.
Click to expand...
Pscan does the same.:D

Nodge68 said:
I don't know how complete the Pscan unit is but the I930 will do all you need. It's not bad at normal faults. There's more people giving positive feedback than negative. So it's not a waste of money. I have one and the overall impression is good for the tiny amount it costs.
Don't forget that it only needs to find 2 faults at garage rates to pay for itself;)
Click to expand...

Philip mentioned earlier in the post that the coverage of his device is work in progress - it's very nearly complete for the MGF now (just the Pektron and the Septronic gearbox ECUs to crack now), and it gives dealership level access to the engine management systems (including live data that can be so useful in diagnosing faults).
I don't think Philip has yet cracked the Freelander's TC/HDC/ABS ECUs yet - or at least not the Teves Mk20 (which mine has) or the 7AS immobiliser (which mine has). I think he's got it working on the Teves Mk25 - I am sure Philip will let us know. :D
 
Harold 4x4 said:
Bit fed up now...
Click to expand...
Cars in general are a complete pain in the arse, especially these newer computer controlled ones.
I do actually know what I'm doing with the FL1, having owned it for so long. But even so, that fault I had for 9 months had me swearing like a navvy.
But if you like the car, its worth persevering.

Harold 4x4 said:
Learning French has been a challenge, learning 'techno geek' is way out of my comfort zone...;):(
Click to expand...
Don't get confused by the techno babble. Use the fault finder as an aid. If you can't do a certain scan or a live data feed, say so. One of us will have done it at some point and will walk you through it.
Or YouTube it, even if it's not the same car, the principal is the same, and it'll never get tired of playing the video.

Mike
 
Yes, cars are allways a pain in the arse when they go wrong, but buying a ´new' car and splashing out on new shocks, a reconditioned rear diff, diagnostic tool, new battery( not delivered yet, fingers crossed), fitting a secondary earth and still the damn thing isn't working....Yet to buy a new throttle body and short silicone hose!:mad:

I liked the car for about a week and there it ended. Been nothing but trouble since I bought it and without solving this current problem I have a car not fit for purpose: no 4x4, no cruise control, no abs, no HDC.

Do I seem a little miffed? You bet :)

Looks good parked in front of the house.

Back to my earlier comments on the icarsoft...

Yes, having read a bit more now, and thanks to the replies on here, it is quite sufficient as a basic diagnostic tool. I doubt there is anything to gain from 'splashing out' on something more expensive. All the hard work and headaches begins after you find the meaning of a code.
 
Last edited:
Harold 4x4 said:
Yes, cars are allways a pain in the arse when they go wrong, but buying a ´new' car and splashing out on new shocks, a reconditioned rear diff, diagnostic tool, new battery( not delivered yet, fingers crossed), fitting a secondary earth and still the damn thing isn't working....Yet to buy a new throttle body and short silicone hose!:mad:

I liked the car for about a week and there it ended. Been nothing but trouble since I bought it and without solving this current problem I have a car not fit for purpose: no 4x4, no cruise control, no abs, no HDC.

Do I seem a little miffed? You bet :)

Looks good parked in front of the house.

Back to my earlier comments on the icarsoft...

Yes, having read a bit more now, and thanks to the replies on here, it is quite sufficient as a basic diagnostic tool. I doubt there is anything to gain from 'splashing out' on something more expensive. All the hard work and headaches begins after you find the meaning of a code.
Click to expand...
Welcome to Landy ownership. :confused:
 
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