Hippo said:
Rs comp, farnell, cpc and rapid are all still going.
Click to expand...
That is prolly true, but do they export, quickly, to Frogland?!! ;)
You might not believe what you can no longer get over here, or you can but at a heck of a price. A sump plug for instance. Price £1.50, post packing customs etc, around £20!
But I'll bear them in mind if I get stuck with bringing them back to blighty to fix.
 
Stanleysteamer said:
And there was me thinking of a the Beano !!
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1755811573147.png
 
Stanleysteamer said:
We also have the boxed set of the Sweeney.
TV at its best, love it.
I annoy my missus by shouting out the makes and models of all the cars we see on the screen!!
I lovethe al;most total lack of political correctness although feminism is remarked on quite often and not always in a negative style. I was living around Notting Hill Gate at the time they were filming a lot of it and me and my flatmates used to watch it trying to work out which streets they were using. Minder wasn't bad but couldn't hold a candle to the Sweeney in MHO.
Click to expand...
Van der Valk wasn’t too bad I have to say. All the old stuffs the best. 👍
 
Stanleysteamer said:
I did bizarrely think of doing just that, in series obvs. But I don't fancy disabling both our cars here at the same time.
In the UK I have a load of old batts kicking around that I could use. I could do with an old transformer of some kind. And it would have to be rectified. An old batt charger of some sort maybe? I'll have to see what I've got, I don't think any of mine are 24 volt.
You see, you are helping! Ta!
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Not a bad idea, you could prob take the battery out of one car and connect in series with the other without removing it from the second car so as not to disable them both. Shouldn't be an issue for a small test like this, at least you might prove/disprove the relay operation.

I've got a battery charger which will do 24v but not much good to you down here...

To be honest if the relays are working you will probably get them to click over on 12v just for proving.
 
Stanleysteamer said:
Others have mentioned Rouen as being a total PITA from this point of view. As we never go near there we do not have an alternative. I can see from the map that when we were forced to use Dieppe a couple of times we managed to get around it and stay on autoroutes, I LOVE the way you have got your crit'air sticker for Spain! Well done.
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Yes I've seen on various forums that avoiding Rouen north-south or vice versa is a PITA. Someone listed a detour route which sounded long winded and frankly, long. I thought get a sticker and drive right through as normal, its only €4.something to get it. Last time I did it I was driving a car which doesn't even qualify for a sticker of any rating but they didn't have the camera enforcement set up then. There are a few other places with a LEZ we might skirt but maybe have to go into, don't want to work that out on the hoof. And I read that if we go anywhere near BAB in the south it will be a no-no without a sticker although the minimum acceptable there is a '5' so very lenient.

Re. foreign cars in Spain, to be honest I got the sticker to go through Rouen, nothing else. The other is a nice little bonus I discovered! Its given me a crazy idea though - W wants to upgrade her car to a newer one and we thought we'd trade in the current one obvs. If its worth next to nothing for trade in we might keep it and I thought we'd import it into Portugal. Now, it's currently on a Spanish 'B' sticker which precludes a few places newly restricted here but if I decided I might drive it on PT plates to France and got a French sticker for it, which would be recognised in Spain, it would bump it up a category because according to the bumf it would be a '2'. How mad is that?!
 
6pot said:
Ouch. In the cheap places here petrol is about €1.33, mostly E5, and diesel €1.28. I put E10 in my car by mistake in France once and it leaks now.
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You is sposed to check compatibility apparently, great news if you're running on fumes and on the forecourt. Newer motors is generally ok i think, but i dont touch the stuff.
 
To get 24vdc buy yerself a small psu

RS PRO 24W Plug-In AC/DC Adapter 24V dc Output, 1A Output | RS

uk.rs-online.com uk.rs-online.com

And an inline fuse so yer dun't blow yerself up.

To test a relay yer can measure the coil resistance while in circuit. Uvver components in parallel will alter the measured value burrits only an indication ovvit being open circuit or not. So it be ok. When taken out yer can power the coil and measure resistance across the contacts. The 'normally open' will be short circuit to the 'common', when powered. But relay contacts fail wiv pitting and carbon marks if swiching a lot ov power or have hadda lorra use.. So resistance ain't a good enuff test to find a volt drop that will only show when passing several amps across the contacts.

Removing components wiv a manual solder pump ain't easy. Especially if the pcb oles are tight on the pins and its a chuncky relay which soaks in the heat. Easiler to cut the track to the coil so yer can energise the relay in circuit wiv out removing it.

Scratch the track on both sides ov said cut and blob some solder accrossit to rejoin again.

To replace caps yer need the correct capacitance, volts and type. It should say on the side. Like 10nF 50v. Type yer know visually like electrolittic or tanterlum etc. Both spelt wrong assits fred rules spellin dun't count. Some caps are polarised.

Its a lorra faffing about just to save 200 sovs. But it will give us many weeks ov laffs.

If the pcb receives a signal from the main controller to switch said relay, why not just poke yer own version ov said signal in, and measure the relay contacts via the power connecters. Be easier.
 
Anyways eye is up urly as eye hassa busy day at wuk. Up before me squirrels arrive fer brekfust. Recently when they ran out ov nuts eye went out wiv more and they din't run far oft like befor. Even climbed back down the trellis to gerra nut eye chucked in their direction. As long as eye stand still and keep to me usual area they be ok wivvit.
 
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