You can get speshul pants for that you know.Busy wee day, good fun with all the lads the banter was superb. Got a mates motor to look at in the morning as he's
had a wee accident so early to bed. Nite all
You can get speshul pants for that you know.Busy wee day, good fun with all the lads the banter was superb. Got a mates motor to look at in the morning as he's
had a wee accident so early to bed. Nite all
Almost two breakfastsWots that in sovs?
No. He's wukkin.Izzat our Kev?
The joys of plumbingMy God I HATE plumbering!!!
You think, "I don't want any leaks as this configuration of bits and pieces to go in that there 'ole is so tight and so hard to do up, I'll test all the "wet" bits first before final assembly."
So you do just that. To all the joints of various types, put your special plumber's grease on the O rings etc ensure it is all on, take a deep breath, open the isolating valves and ........... see tiny drips just below one.
So you re-isolate, tighten the compression fitting on the lower and upper part of the isolating valve, tighten up the rings on the "push fit" connection elbow right below it, (I didn't fit this remember!), and try it again.
Yippee! dry!!!!!
So you proceed to the monumentally flipping awkward placement of the rubber gasket the horseshoe sort of shaped flat metal bit through which the threaded rod goes up into the base of the tap, With its blasted 7/16" nut on, in a place where no normal spanner will fit cos of the proximity of the two copper pipes that come down right next to it, (not flexis obviously, thanks chum).
Struggle like flip to do it up tight.
Then try to position the plug opening and closing rod therough its lickle 'ole.
Won't go, tap too far back.
So you drag the whole business forward a tad, eventually get the whole shooting match working, and open the isolators again.
Ever so slowly a drip appears, but of course in a different place, when it has never dripped before. The very top of one of the copper pipes which are supposedly only supposed to go "hand tight" into the base of the tap.
Of course you cannot get any sort of a grip or wrench onto the solid fitting part right at the top as it is buried inside the hole in the top of the basin. And of course it is round not hex.
So you loosen the compression fitting in the top of the isolator, and do the best you can with water pump pliers on the thickest part of the copper pipe just above the isolator, to tighten it up inside the tap. It moves a hairsbreadth.
Then you retighten the compression fitting, open the isolator and ........... it is still weeping.
So you do this twice more, each time the weep improves fractionally.
But is still there.
By now my back and neck are aching and I cannot face taking the whole flipping thing apart to enable me to lift the tap up above the sink just enough to get a mole grip on the top fitting.
So I turn the isolator off again and resign myself, with choice language, to yet another attempt yet another day.
How do plumberists ever make any money at this game?
Rant over.
(Give me electrics any time. And I dislike them strongly! And I am too tight to buy anything else to make the job easier, like a flexi or even two.)
Have an enjoyable Friday Evening folks.
That all looks fabulous, It must be lovely to be able to do plumbering in such a space, rather than having to contort yourself underneath baths or sinks! Very neat clean work!Gland pliers don't get enough grip on compression fittings, plus you need to wrap a bit of ptfe around the olive first.
I just finished putting in a whole CH system and replumbing to get an unvented tank in place of the vented water tank. I had one leak, where I put a mounting screw through a pipe for a rad.
I don't use pushfits though, always solder ring or compression depending on whether it is new or old pipe I am connecting toView attachment 304995
and pink stamps, can you remember them? But it wasn't me, it was my parents, but I remember being made to stick them into the books for them!Bet you got green shield stamps back in the day
Cheers mate, never thought of that but it does make sense!!!The joys of plumbing
often as you tighten up the compression nut at the top of the ballofix it turns the pipe ie undoing it out of the tap it can be a right pain, flexies and a tap boxspanner set make it very easy
Rothenberger Monoblock Tap Spanner Set 3 Pieces - Screwfix
Order online at Screwfix.com. Set of 3 double-ended monoblock tap spanners that fit most monoblock securing bolts and a tommy bar. FREE next day delivery available, free collection in 1 minute.www.screwfix.com
Glad to hear you had fun!!!Morning All.
Sore head and queasy tummy this morning. Far too much beer last night.
Took my boy out for beers to cheer him up. A good time was had by all.
Have a great day!
Izzat our Kev?
That all looks fabulous, It must be lovely to be able to do plumbering in such a space, rather than having to contort yourself underneath baths or sinks! Very neat clean work!
Thats just the visible bit, the rest was under the floor
Flexi's are available which have nuts on the top. A JG Speedfit type for mono blocks have one long and one short nut (bought as a pair) and are handy for spanner access. I have a mono block tap which came with copper tails, with nuts at the tap end. Still got them, as I fitted up with JG Speedfit flexi's. Scroofix is your friend, eight pages of choice in Flexi's.Where a mixer tap sits inside a hole in a basin, there is, all crammed together, the tops of the two pipes, (no nuts on them),