Turboman said:
And BTW, underseal will rot your chassis quicker than anything else!
Click to expand...
I'm confused, maybe stupid too haha. But thought a coating of dinitrol would help the chassis not rust any further if applied by a professional. We've got loads of oil floating around that could be mixed/sprayed into the chassis. Any suggestions on method of application? Compressor job?
bankz5152 said:
Might be better off with a snow cowl

MUD_Defender_Snow_Cowl19.JPG
Click to expand...
I've read a few posts which have stated you lose the slight ram air effect of air passing over the wing and into the heater box. So when your vents are open, but fan not on, you have no air coming in the cabin. Snow cowl does look cooler though, and o suppose I could just swap between the 2 dependant on season too.
 
Ram air only really happens 100mph+ so pretty useless on a Defender! I've got one on mine and there is zero difference on or off, except the air is dry and not full of ****!

What do you mean 'So when your vents are open, but fan not on, you have no air coming in the cabin'?

No air comes into my cabin unless I turn the blower on or open the bulkhead vents.
 
One thing I can say, once you have rust you either cut it out or it gets worse. No real "rust curer" really works in the long term!
 
MrKnifey said:
One thing I can say, once you have rust you either cut it out or it gets worse. No real "rust curer" really works in the long term!
Click to expand...
I agree, once the rust has got into the metal.
Bit of spotting and surface rust will clean off, though, and rust inhibitors do help stop it forming again.
What is really not good is road salt flaying into dry surface rust though. We find similar here with the farm kit, only a mile form the sea, so salt is an issue.
 
NinkyNonk said:
I'm confused, maybe stupid too haha. But thought a coating of dinitrol would help the chassis not rust any further if applied by a professional. We've got loads of oil floating around that could be mixed/sprayed into the chassis. Any suggestions on method of application? Compressor job?
I've read a few posts which have stated you lose the slight ram air effect of air passing over the wing and into the heater box. So when your vents are open, but fan not on, you have no air coming in the cabin. Snow cowl does look cooler though, and o suppose I could just swap between the 2 dependant on season too.
Click to expand...
Dinitrol is good stuff, but quite expensive. Wouldn't set any great store by professional application, it is a painstaking job, and they don't always do it well.
On a chassis like that, you might save some money, and Waxoyl outside, used gear oil, not sump oil, instead.
I just use an old agricultural knapsack to spray the stuff, some use compressor, thin whatever if necessary with white spirit.
 
bankz5152 said:
What do you mean 'So when your vents are open, but fan not on, you have no air coming in the cabin'?

No air comes into my cabin unless I turn the blower on or open the bulkhead vents.
Click to expand...
Just before my fan activates it allows air into the cab without it being forced by the fan. Fitting a snow cowl stops the air flowing freely into the system.
You are right, I should get a snow cowl and then nothing can really get in!
 
Turboman said:
Dinitrol is good stuff, but quite expensive. Wouldn't set any great store by professional application, it is a painstaking job, and they don't always do it well.
On a chassis like that, you might save some money, and Waxoyl outside, used gear oil, not sump oil, instead.
I just use an old agricultural knapsack to spray the stuff, some use compressor, thin whatever if necessary with white spirit.
Click to expand...
I'm pretty much in agreement. Once rust is in, it's not going away. Also read that Ince a few bits have been replaced that it's only a matter of time before the chassis itself shows signs of rusting through.
Probably keep it the best I can over winter and when the garage is built I can have it apart and see what we're dealing with.
 
Realistically, give it a good clean, do what Turboman has suggested and go from there. May take years for it to rust to the point it needs welding!
 
MrKnifey said:
Realistically, give it a good clean, do what Turboman has suggested and go from there. May take years for it to rust to the point it needs welding!
Click to expand...
Yes, he might be able to buy some time on it, and maybe some more after that by plating trouble spots.
As you suggested earlier, a lot depends on the state of the chassis when you start. A 200k plus chassis, that hasn't been looked after, bare on the outside, and driven through rivers, all full of mud and silt. No way you will save that with coatings and dinitrol.
80k on a well cared for vehicle, always kept clean, you might get decades of life by refinishing and spraying inside.
 
Not much to report really. I've bought a Disklok as seeing the local Police on facebook kept posting about keeping 4x4 vehicles, especially Land Rovers, as safe as possible. 2nd time lucky, the first Disklok turned up looking like this:
DSC_0419.JPG
DSC_0420.JPG
DSC_0421.JPG

Also ended up following my head and bought the Britpart wing top vent intake, and not a snow cowl. When I ordered it I realized it was going to have no holes in it however I thought it would be aluminium, not steel. No real problem though, just a bit harder to drill with an old battery drill, also replaced all the screws with some stainless ones. I've not experienced any excessive moisture being blown onto the screens like I was before with the open wing top grille. I can confirm that I have not noticed a difference with the fan vent open without blowing when compared to standard.
Screenshot_2015-11-15-16-21-04.png

Whilst I was having a random nose around the engine bay checking fluid levels I noticed that the serpentine belt appeared to have quite a few cracks in it. Not sure if this is a normal thing to happen but having looked online it seems easily enough to replace if this is bad. So any advise on this would be appreciated, or it it imminent failure??
Screenshot_2015-11-15-14-24-32.png
Screenshot_2015-11-15-14-24-46.png


I have been wondering if I'm hardy enough to drive a Defender through winter recently, and it's not even cold yet.
 
gemsdad said:
Abelt can go at anytime,yours "looks" ok but i would change it asap.
Click to expand...
Appreciate you have limited information to go on. Thanks I'll get one on order.

I really like the way you can order very little on a Defender without checking it's compatible with your specific component haha.
 
NinkyNonk said:
Appreciate you have limited information to go on. Thanks I'll get one on order.

I really like the way you can order very little on a Defender without checking it's compatible with your specific component haha.
Click to expand...
send your vin/chassis number with the order,they can check it will be the correct belt that way.
 
Once you know what size belt fits, get a spare and keep it in the car. If you have a spare on you the chances are that you'll never need it.
 
Went outside and got soaked, had a look @ the belt and it matched with what my research pointed towards and is the 1580mm item. Surprised it wasn't hidden under a pulley or right down the bottom out of reach. Was easily readable with a mirror and torch.
Brown said:
Once you know what size belt fits, get a spare and keep it in the car. If you have a spare on you the chances are that you'll never need it.
Click to expand...
I like your thinking, and think I will. I'm also a firm believer in sods law. There are belts on eBay for £5. I've ordered a Bearmach one for £10, worst case scenario I'll take that off if it squeals and buy a genuine LR one.
 
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