I've just done me own VCU and found it surprisingly straightforward. Few bits from this experience:
Get new support bearings & find a friendly local engineering works to press them on for you - I got charged a tenner, better than using good old-fashioned hammer & socket method and buggering £400-worth of new VCU! And for the sake of £40 you might as well have new 'uns
I found the new VCU surprisingly hard to turn,
so I'd definitely say use the bar in the prop method to test the old one. You won't even shift a good 'un just by turning the rear wheel by hand IMHO.
Use a T12 Torx socket (I think that's the size) for the CV and diff joints. I found a good selection of UJs and extensions in my socket set were invaluable. If you don't have the wherewithal to get all 4 wheels off the ground (like me - only 2 axle stands to my name), undo the front joint 1st so you can rotate the prop to get at the back bolts.
I supported the ends on old flowerpots(!) then used a jack to support the VCU while I undid the bearing carriers & dropped the whole lot off.
Old VCU is a sod to get off the props - undo the bolt a bit (ring spanner & hammer action), then use some sort of tapered bar to force it off the splines. I found an old chisel did the trick here - had to keep making small adjustments in the bolt to get the correct leverage.
New bits from Island 4x4, nailed it all together with plenty of threadlocker and back on the car.
Now it feels 'right' again. Main symptom was a binding sensation on full lock which has now gone completely. Feeling v pleased with myself after local dealers said "<sharp intake of breath> it's yer IRD mate, we'll sort it for a grand...". Saved meself £600, well worth the grit in my eyes (wear goggles underneath!) and aching back. And lotsa brownie points from the missus whose car it is.
Hope this load of blather is some help. No doubt veteran spanner-monkeys on here will correct me if I did anything wrong...