After you put it back on yer real motor.

mark it up where ive indicated with yellow lines then try it agen !:D
hi, from what I can see only the yellow line on the right is of interest ( the one underneath the "AT" in DAIHATSU. If your VCU is not totally siezed,, that line should split at the point where the input shaft goes into the VCU body--- everything else is rigid.
Cheers
Ian Hughes
Tassie
 
hi, from what I can see only the yellow line on the right is of interest ( the one underneath the "AT" in DAIHATSU. If your VCU is not totally siezed,, that line should split at the point where the input shaft goes into the VCU body--- everything else is rigid.
Cheers
Ian Hughes
Tassie

Yep!

well spotted Tassie

its the front prop that should rotate seperate from the rest of it :rolleyes:

I just couldnt remember which bit wer fixed and i wernt crawlin about under the hippo at that time o night :p
 
hi, from what I can see only the yellow line on the right is of interest ( the one underneath the "AT" in DAIHATSU. If your VCU is not totally siezed,, that line should split at the point where the input shaft goes into the VCU body--- everything else is rigid.
Cheers
Ian Hughes
Tassie

Agreed! Nice one Ianh1
 
Did today the "jack up one wheel and try to turn it" test on mine and I think the vcu still ok. I could hardly move the one rear wheel (with the car in P) and as far as I could see only the rear prop shaft moved a little where from the vcu on towards the ird it all kept in place.
 
Did today the "jack up one wheel and try to turn it" test on mine and I think the vcu still ok. I could hardly move the one rear wheel (with the car in P) and as far as I could see only the rear prop shaft moved a little where from the vcu on towards the ird it all kept in place.
Can confirm Willo is correct. Some peeps advocate puting a bar in rear UJ of prop shaft to test - however, and especially if manual gearbox, NEVER go underneath relying on jack only and even if on axle stand, both front wheels should be chocked front and rear of the wheels to prevent movement as turning the rear prop even with a good VCU will want to cause the engine to turn over and hence the FL will want to move!
Also I think it was Willo that posted a little while ago, as a quick check after a good run, to feel if the VCU is warm ?????? If warm, proves its working and if stone cold, start to investigate further.
 
I've just done me own VCU and found it surprisingly straightforward. Few bits from this experience:

Get new support bearings & find a friendly local engineering works to press them on for you - I got charged a tenner, better than using good old-fashioned hammer & socket method and buggering £400-worth of new VCU! And for the sake of £40 you might as well have new 'uns

I found the new VCU surprisingly hard to turn, so I'd definitely say use the bar in the prop method to test the old one. You won't even shift a good 'un just by turning the rear wheel by hand IMHO.

Use a T12 Torx socket (I think that's the size) for the CV and diff joints. I found a good selection of UJs and extensions in my socket set were invaluable. If you don't have the wherewithal to get all 4 wheels off the ground (like me - only 2 axle stands to my name), undo the front joint 1st so you can rotate the prop to get at the back bolts.

I supported the ends on old flowerpots(!) then used a jack to support the VCU while I undid the bearing carriers & dropped the whole lot off.

Old VCU is a sod to get off the props - undo the bolt a bit (ring spanner & hammer action), then use some sort of tapered bar to force it off the splines. I found an old chisel did the trick here - had to keep making small adjustments in the bolt to get the correct leverage.

New bits from Island 4x4, nailed it all together with plenty of threadlocker and back on the car.

Now it feels 'right' again. Main symptom was a binding sensation on full lock which has now gone completely. Feeling v pleased with myself after local dealers said "<sharp intake of breath> it's yer IRD mate, we'll sort it for a grand...". Saved meself £600, well worth the grit in my eyes (wear goggles underneath!) and aching back. And lotsa brownie points from the missus whose car it is.

Hope this load of blather is some help. No doubt veteran spanner-monkeys on here will correct me if I did anything wrong...:rolleyes:
 
I've just done me own VCU and found it surprisingly straightforward. Few bits from this experience:
.

I supported the ends on old flowerpots(!) then used a jack to support the VCU while I undid the bearing carriers & dropped the whole lot off.

Old VCU is a sod to get off the props - undo the bolt a bit (ring spanner & hammer action), then use some sort of tapered bar to force it off the splines. I found an old chisel did the trick here - had to keep making small adjustments in the bolt to get the correct leverage.


..:rolleyes:
Hi, Endorse your sentiments wholeheartedly.--- Given the pain it is to split the UJ's from the VCU, cant imagine why you wouldn't just drop the whole lot, front & rear props, VCU and all, and separate it on the bench if need be! All the talk about the VCU being dangerously heavy, seems a bit extreme to me. Supporting front and rear ends of the props and lowering the VCU on a trolley jack is quite straightforward (made up a little wooden custom cradle to stabilize the vcu)
Cheers
Ian Hughes
Tassie
 
I've just done me own VCU and found it surprisingly straightforward. Few bits from this experience:

Get new support bearings & find a friendly local engineering works to press them on for you - I got charged a tenner, better than using good old-fashioned hammer & socket method and buggering £400-worth of new VCU! And for the sake of £40 you might as well have new 'uns

I found the new VCU surprisingly hard to turn, so I'd definitely say use the bar in the prop method to test the old one. You won't even shift a good 'un just by turning the rear wheel by hand IMHO.

Use a T12 Torx socket (I think that's the size) for the CV and diff joints. I found a good selection of UJs and extensions in my socket set were invaluable. If you don't have the wherewithal to get all 4 wheels off the ground (like me - only 2 axle stands to my name), undo the front joint 1st so you can rotate the prop to get at the back bolts.

I supported the ends on old flowerpots(!) then used a jack to support the VCU while I undid the bearing carriers & dropped the whole lot off.

Old VCU is a sod to get off the props - undo the bolt a bit (ring spanner & hammer action), then use some sort of tapered bar to force it off the splines. I found an old chisel did the trick here - had to keep making small adjustments in the bolt to get the correct leverage.

New bits from Island 4x4, nailed it all together with plenty of threadlocker and back on the car.

Now it feels 'right' again. Main symptom was a binding sensation on full lock which has now gone completely. Feeling v pleased with myself after local dealers said "<sharp intake of breath> it's yer IRD mate, we'll sort it for a grand...". Saved meself £600, well worth the grit in my eyes (wear goggles underneath!) and aching back. And lotsa brownie points from the missus whose car it is.

Hope this load of blather is some help. No doubt veteran spanner-monkeys on here will correct me if I did anything wrong...:rolleyes:

When I said I could hardly move that one wheel off the ground I was speaking in terms of one centimeter. As I can consider myself not of the weakest kind (my one son in law couldn't move it an 'inch' so to speak) I think with the little move I could manage to make, I got confirmation of my soninlaw that he saw the prop shaft slighty turn upwards while the front prop shaft was without any move. Therefore I'd say mine still ok.
 
hi all i changed my prop bearings and now i got what feels like a wobble when turning right at about 20mph and accelerating, i fitted britpart bearings :confused: i have had the prop on and off 2 times over the last 2 weeks with no probs only having this prob after changing the bearings , any ideas whats going on ? :cool:
 
JACK UP REAR WHEEL THEN GET 2 TYRE LEVERS BETWEEN UJ ARMS EITHER SIDE OF VCU , TRY TO TURN IN OPPOSITE DIRECTIONS, SHOULD NOT TAKE TOO MUCH EFFORT, I AM NOT SURE WHAT THE OFFICIAL TORQUE IS BUT IF YOU PHONE DAVE MAC PROPSHAFTS ON 024-76683239 OR E-MAIL:- johnmac@davemacprops.co.uk they will put you right.
Hope you have a good result.
 
hi sparkyjohn5 i think i might have found the prob looks like i put them on the wrong way round :eek: i have knocked them off and put them back on the right way round just need to refit the prop after the football and test :rolleyes:
 
JACK UP REAR WHEEL THEN GET 2 TYRE LEVERS BETWEEN UJ ARMS EITHER SIDE OF VCU , TRY TO TURN IN OPPOSITE DIRECTIONS, SHOULD NOT TAKE TOO MUCH EFFORT, I AM NOT SURE WHAT THE OFFICIAL TORQUE IS BUT IF YOU PHONE DAVE MAC PROPSHAFTS ON 024-76683239 OR E-MAIL:- johnmac@davemacprops.co.uk they will put you right.
Hope you have a good result.

I think you'll find Sparkyjohn that if you can turn in opposite directions with not much effort that yer VCU is in fact knackered...read some of the previous threads, you should barely be able to turn it...
 

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