Do you remember I did this?

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It welded the starter solenoid together and now the green light in the battery looks like crystals. Never charged and it’s still fine. Doozle takes more chug too
 
OK, I fitted the MF31-1000 on the Rangie this afternoon with the Ctek keeping a "Supply" voltage on the car so no loss of radio-codes or resetting of windows etc.
This Ctek connection was important at this time because my sunroof shade is shedding its skin; so resetting the sunroof just causes the velour to peel off and hang down like a sad, floppy rag.
Bloody-hell that battery IS a really, really tight fit. So much so that the battery cover struggles to fit back on and is under pressure/distortion from the front LH-side of the battery being a tiny bit too tall for the contours of the battery cover-plate.
But it is in and I shall be monitoring the Volts closely to check that this has been a good investment over the 110AH Duracell that was in there that kept dropping volts. :D
Will pop it on charge now.
 
OK, I fitted the MF31-1000 on the Rangie this afternoon with the Ctek keeping a "Supply" voltage on the car so no loss of radio-codes or resetting of windows etc.
This Ctek connection was important at this time because my sunroof shade is shedding its skin; so resetting the sunroof just causes the velour to peel off and hang down like a sad, floppy rag.
Bloody-hell that battery IS a really, really tight fit. So much so that the battery cover struggles to fit back on and is under pressure/distortion from the front LH-side of the battery being a tiny bit too tall for the contours of the battery cover-plate.
But it is in and I shall be monitoring the Volts closely to check that this has been a good investment over the 110AH Duracell that was in there that kept dropping volts. :D
Will pop it on charge now.
Duracell is just a name now, the company was bought out by Berkshire Hathaway, a private equity company, so quite likely the quality has gone out the window as they do what they always do and try to squeeze more profit.
 
OK, so I let my Ctek Charger do its "intelligent charging" thing all night and just now I checked it and it says it has finished and the battery is fully charged.
Measured the voltage with my DVM and it is only 12.94. I thought a fully charged battery was 13.2? But, maybe as it is connected to an "awake" car the 0.26v difference is what is being lost across the BeCM etc. ?
At least that is my reasoning for the 12.94V I am seeing.
 
OK, so I let my Ctek Charger do its "intelligent charging" thing all night and just now I checked it and it says it has finished and the battery is fully charged.
Measured the voltage with my DVM and it is only 12.94. I thought a fully charged battery was 13.2? But, maybe as it is connected to an "awake" car the 0.26v difference is what is being lost across the BeCM etc. ?
At least that is my reasoning for the 12.94V I am seeing.
Smart chargers drop to a float charge voltage of, usually, 12.9volts, so that sounds perfectly normal.
 
Smart chargers drop to a float charge voltage of, usually, 12.9volts, so that sounds perfectly normal.
Thanks Keith, I went out in it today and on return home and with engine just turned off the Display in the Cigar-lighter socket reported 13.4v (the reading with the engine on was 14.3 just before this).
The battery certainly spins the engine over a lot quicker. :)
 
UPDATE:
After leaving the car for a few days I was a little bit surprised to find the Ctek Tell-Tale on "AMBER" (12.4 .. 12.6 Volts) and a DVM measured 12.48V across the battery.
Now checking for parasitic drains OTHER THAN RF fob stuff. The car has no aftermarket items on it.
Is the boot located cigar-outlet a permanently live one, and does a USB charger draw current even if nothing is plugged in? I guess it must have a min/max draw depending on load.
 
Well, after only 2 hours on a Ctek Charger the Ctek has gone into "Supply Mode" so it cannot have been that discharged.
I suspect I am just being super-sensitive about it.
 
UPDATE:
After leaving the car for a few days I was a little bit surprised to find the Ctek Tell-Tale on "AMBER" (12.4 .. 12.6 Volts) and a DVM measured 12.48V across the battery.
Now checking for parasitic drains OTHER THAN RF fob stuff. The car has no aftermarket items on it.
Is the boot located cigar-outlet a permanently live one, and does a USB charger draw current even if nothing is plugged in? I guess it must have a min/max draw depending on load.
If the boot cig lighter is original, it goes off with the ignition. A USB charger will draw a small amount of current when plugged in but not in use, the amount will vary from make to make.
 
Thanks Keith,
I will keep an eye on it and if it drops too quickly I shall have to start looking for parasitic draw's, mind you 12.48V is not "discharged" and only c. 0.75V below fully charged so I am probably tilting at windmills.
 
Thanks Keith,
I will keep an eye on it and if it drops too quickly I shall have to start looking for parasitic draw's, mind you 12.48V is not "discharged" and only c. 0.75V below fully charged so I am probably tilting at windmills.
After settling for an hour or so after coming off charge, 12.8 is fully charged, 12.48 seems a bit on the low side, depends on how long it's stood and how much it continues to drop.
 
Well the new MF31-1000 is rated as a "Truck" battery, I am hoping the Voltage drop is not continuous down below 12.48.

120ah and 1200CCA IIRC!! ;)

I've not measured mine, but it still spins over like a top after 3 weeks sitting..
 

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