Haystacks

Haystacks

Active Member
Hi all. Not posted for a while, as all has been well with my D2. Currently on holiday in Cornwall with our caravan. Before we left I replaced the xyz switch due to water getting in the switch and making the MandS lights flash. All has been well since, towed down faultlessly and has been good until yesterday, when I had the lights come up again and limp mode engaged, stuck in 3rd. Turning on and off didn't cure the fault. It has been very wet here, but the switch is new. My battery output is 12.4 faults with the engine off, rises to 13.6 to 13.8 when running. Is that output about right or too low, as I understand low battery output could cause the issue. Also, the ACE warning light came on driving back to the site yesterday, but that cleared after restarting. Any help much appreciated, as there's no way I can tow the van back with it stuck in 3rd with wife and kids as well. TIA.
 
Haystacks said:
Hi all. Not posted for a while, as all has been well with my D2. Currently on holiday in Cornwall with our caravan. Before we left I replaced the xyz switch due to water getting in the switch and making the MandS lights flash. All has been well since, towed down faultlessly and has been good until yesterday, when I had the lights come up again and limp mode engaged, stuck in 3rd. Turning on and off didn't cure the fault. It has been very wet here, but the switch is new. My battery output is 12.4 faults with the engine off, rises to 13.6 to 13.8 when running. Is that output about right or too low, as I understand low battery output could cause the issue. Also, the ACE warning light came on driving back to the site yesterday, but that cleared after restarting. Any help much appreciated, as there's no way I can tow the van back with it stuck in 3rd with wife and kids as well. TIA.
Click to expand...
rag the stick back and forth a few times, could be a sticky switch. also check the cable bracket clip on the side of the gearbox and the general operation/security of the cable from the gear stick down to the xyz switch. you never know, if you've changed the switch, something could have come loose.
 
Thanks. Tried running the lever up and down...didn't help. Block connector has come away from clip, as clip is broken. It's cabletied up in place. I did think water getting into the block connector could cause the issue, but contacts look clean. I will check the cable bracket etc from the gear lever too. It did all seem tight and secure when refitting, but worth a look for sure.
 
Last edited:
Hi. Near Penzance. I've just been underneath. Cable looks good. I managed to loosen the electrical block connector, and refasten it again, and has cleared the fault. So, I guess, it's either the block connector, or the wiring to the connector. We did go through some big puddles yesterday.

Trewey said:
Whereabouts in Cornwall are you?
Click to expand...
 
Haystacks said:
Been for short drive. All ok so far. Fingers crossed.
Click to expand...
so it appears water was getting in the block connector. dry it out completely and find some way of waterproofing it e.g. heatshrink or even good old duck tape.
 
Bobdog said:
so it appears water was getting in the block connector. dry it out completely and find some way of waterproofing it e.g. heatshrink or even good old duck tape.
Click to expand...
Well, it seems likely, yes. I think there is a white grease you can get, purely for electrical connections, that waterproofs but doesn't interfere with the electrical signal. Will see how we go. Have a few more days in sunny Cornwall. Thnaks. Thanks
 
Bobdog said:
so it appears water was getting in the block connector. dry it out completely and find some way of waterproofing it e.g. heatshrink or even good old duck tape.
Click to expand...
+1
You could also try self amalgamating tape on the connector. I keep a tube of some "sticky" silicone grease with which I fill the connector prior to making the connection, particularly in connectors exposed to the weather. Not only does it keep out any moisture but also the air which prevents oxidization and tarnish.
 
brian47 said:
+1
You could also try self amalgamating tape on the connector. I keep a tube of some "sticky" silicone grease with which I fill the connector prior to making the connection, particularly in connectors exposed to the weather. Not only does it keep out any moisture but also the air which prevents oxidization and tarnish.
Click to expand...
Yes, definitely need to so something. It's just a shame it's so awkward to get too! Thanks.
 
Update*** Been out today. It's been dry. Managed to disconnect block connector and sprayed with contact cleaner. Left it for a good hour to dry. All reconnected, so now, if I start the engine in park and run through the gears I get all the correct lights on the dash display P R N D 321. If I reverse, all fine. Put in drive on tick over, all good. Press the accelerator and boom. M and S lights on. Limp mode. Any ideas please??
 
What happens to the prnd321 display when the fault occurs and also what happens to the red lights by the gear selector, do they flash or disappear.
 
Feathers McGraw said:
What if you start in neutral and just go straight to drive and set off?
Click to expand...
Same issue. Very odd. I'm wondering if the battery is on its way out. Getting different readings from it. Had it ranging from 12.4vto 14.2v. When ticking over it is showing about 13.8v but revving the engine it can make steadily rise to 14.2v. That's quite a difference and I wonder if it's upsetting the ECU/BCU signal to the box?
 
ROY SIMPSON said:
What happens to the prnd321 display when the fault occurs and also what happens to the red lights by the gear selector, do they flash or disappear.
Click to expand...
Ok. As soon as I press the accelerator, it moves about a foot, m and s lights flash and D display goes off. No lights by shifter. Driving along, that's how it stays. Slowing down in traffic or at a junction engine retuns to tick over, D light flashes on the dash as does the red light by the D on the selector. Press the gas to go again, light and display goes off. It does this repeatably. M and S lights flash constantly. Switch engine off, all resets, starts fine, no lights, into drive, press the gas....same again and so on. Odd!
 
What voltage does the battery drop to when cranking the engine over?

Have you tried wiggling the harness to the xyz switch again?
 
Feathers McGraw said:
What voltage does the battery drop to when cranking the engine over?

Have you tried wiggling the harness to the xyz switch again?
Click to expand...
I'm not sure. I was going to try various things like turning lights on etc to see what effect that has on voltage again tomorrow. I have tried a couple times to move the harness, unplug and reconnect the block connector, but it makes no difference now. Maybe just coincidence earlier??? I really don't know. Thanks.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

Andrewoldold
M&S lights no crank / potentially immobilised?
Replies
1
Views
246
sierrafery
sierrafery
R
63 reg Disco TDV6 268bhp auto commercial, battery light on
Replies
10
Views
395
roythebus
R
Heathereviemay
Xyz switch
2
Replies
31
Views
3K
sierrafery
sierrafery
M
Reverse lights stuck on
Replies
5
Views
1K
Nunkie
N
F
Freelander 1 TD4 Manual 1st Gear Switch
Replies
3
Views
381
freelounger
F