Awesome advice. I just swapped the ccu from the 5 door donor and voila! I have windows and locks again but of course now my remote doesn't work. I'll have to ask him if he still has his unless there is a sequence I'm missing. I also swapped out the relays on the body rear right quarter panel for aasurance. Now to get the codes cleared and see what happens next.

Stay tuned!
 
Codes pulled

C1116
C1151
C1154
C1149

P0646
P1569
P1646
P0430
P0306
P0171
P0174
P1472
P2070

Thoughts?? If I swap the transmission control unit does it need to be flashed? If I change it with the matched donor main computer so all three computers match will that work? Or do they still need to be flashed?
 
Blinking heck - are there any it didn't show?

I believe the CCUs and ECUs are coded, so if you swap 1 you need the other. It also then has a mismatch with the ODO for milage. Not sure on the implications - best for others with more knowledge to respond.
 
Well I tried swapping back and forth and it seems the car only gives a darn about me swapping the main ecm. Didn't want to turn over.

We are also now dealing with the jumpy shifting. Only happens if the engine is running. And I am still missing the gear indication from the odometer. Ugh. I'm really starting to hate this thing
 
Was the battery disconnected when you changed the ECUs?
The lack of gear selection information is a factor here. This is fed via the CAN bus to the dash display. So it looks like you may have lost the bus. This could be caused by anything on the bus. I get the feeling that this Freelander was cheap for a reason.
 
Well it didn't help that I backfed the system when trying to jump the window and again when trying to get the tailgate open. Otherwise it was fine shy of the tailgate window switch not working.

Update: if the fancy code reader is used to clear the codes it will drive fine but then once shut off and restarted we are back to throwing all the codes and acting like a brat. Also noted that the codes illuminate the service engine soon light and the (TC) / hill descent failure lights but when using a basic code reader I cannot pull them nor can I delete them as it will acknowledge that there are codes in the system but states a communication error message when trying to pull details or delete them..... ugh.

I can only imagine that I fried something in the main computer and will need to flash the donor module.

Back to the dealer we go. Maybe this time they will acknowledge the se3's existence.
 
You can't use a second hand engine ecu without getting the immobiliser ecu and transponder chip out the keys to match (all 3 parts from the same car)
 
Engine ecu is in large black box under the hood by the battery

Transponder chips are in the keys

Immobiliser ecu is under the dash board on a RH drive car above the clutch pedal and towards the radio (either a white box or black box depending on age of car) sorry not sure on location for LH drive car - assume same location as RH drive. It's a swine to get to for obvious reasons!
 
Great thanks. Now does anyone have a picture of one located in situ? I'm very visual in learning so once I am able to see it in vehicle then I can get an idea of where to look.

Also read about a hard reset option which may be required after augmenting the computers including removal of a bypass unit for aftermarket alarms and starters. Does anyone know about this?
 
The immobiliser ECU is buried behind the centre console somewhere. It's difficult to get at for obvious security reasons. There's no bypass of the security system, except in certain markets. T4 would be needed to remove any security but I suspect that the immobiliser will function in all markets.
I've had a thought about your lowering rear window. Yours is a convertible (soft back) Freelander. These have a switch that tells the CCU that the roof is down. If it thinks the roof is down, the rear window will always wind down and won't calibrate either.
 
Yes. After destroying the system in a panic to get the window back up I was able to find that there was a blown switch correlating to the hard top detector. Too bad I was impatient.

Now to resolve the angry computers who refuse to communicate without shelling out thousands of dollars at the stealership for new electronics. I'm so fortunate to have located the donor car. The owner has also been so very helpful and patient with me. As you folks have been too :)
 
Finally did the swap over of bcm ecm tcm immobilizer and the throttle pedal switch and we are up and running.... still showing TC and hdc error lights but she is driving without any symptoms. Going to get the shop to clear the existing codes and if not successful drive as is.


Just now dealing with a tailgate window motor that clacks loudly and gets hot whilst failing to actually move the window more than an inch or so.
 
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