lilloco

lilloco

Member
My rear tailgate window refuses to stay up on my 03 se3. You have to jump the wires and perfectly time disconnecting the harness (or jump the motor direct) to get it to go up without a reflex to go back down. The switch at the front beeps 5 times if you push down (and I can hear the motor in the tailgate making noise). If I push for up nothing happens.

I tried to jump the window up myself before rain came (as it was a sunday and the shop I usually annoy with my window woes was closed) and may have oopsed in how I did it because now I have lost power to all windows, the locks, the remote, the tailgate handle, and the interior light no longer work.

Yes I was dumb and when I jumped the window I used the harness and did not disconnect the main battery. Please do not criticize me I just want to move forward.

Please help! Where do I look first to solve the problem. I cannot take it to a shop I cannot afford it. I bought this thing for $250 (gives you an idea of what my finances are like).
 
Finally it stopped raining and threatening snow. I just pulled every fuse in the glove box and replaced them after visual inspection in the sunlight. In the bonnet box they all visually look good. Including the 60 for accessory power. Now to test with a multi meter once I manage to find it.

Another note is that my radio although working otherwise is not holding memory. It keeps reseting the the FM90.7 station it so loves after the battery is reset.

I have a friend who is parting out his 5 door same year. Will swapping the ccu from there help? I also found the craziest stuff behind my fuse box. Someone taped up 10 switches and two little black boxes I'll post a pic once I get a good shot.

I also came across this notice: http://www.myfreelander.co.uk/Body/bodyprobs27.htm
Seems approximate to my fight with the window that started this whole mess.
 
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I would suspect it would be required at minimum to run the car and related components that still do work (heat ac etc) no? I'm new to fancy cars like this so I could be wrong and need learning.
 
20160427_143237.jpg 20160427_142937.jpg
This is the rats nest under my dash.

My neighbour came by and poked around. If we jump the fuse for one front window both Windows work. But not sure how to get the locks going again. Obviously aside from removing that mess in the pics.

Still don't know how to get the rear door to open either.

Otherwise yes the battery is giving power to the under bonnet box and all else.

Now to find that open.
 
Did a spot of digging, the rattler 259D is a remote start system, that bank of relays look like a set of bypasses for the rest of the electrical system.

That loom has been majorly hacked up!
 
B34R said:
Did a spot of digging, the rattler 259D is a remote start system, that bank of relays look like a set of bypasses for the rest of the electrical system.

That loom has been majorly hacked up!
Click to expand...
That's interesting because the OP came on here a few weeks back saying that the car starts itself from the remote fob.
The factory wiring definitely needs to be sorted before trying to fix any issues.
 
Update:
Did some wire troubleshooting to get my tailgate open and apparently succeeded in starting and killing the engine purely by crossing lock wires! The key was in the tailgate lock for safe keeping when this occurred.

Very scary. So out must go all aftermarket electronics!

I was able to remove the remote start unit with what I think was minimal damage to the harness as whoever did the install was smart enough to just split the sheath to expose the wires needed. There was one wire I had to tug a bit to untangle. It appeared to be snagged near the brake peddle. With that all cleared out of the way I also decided to minimize aftermarket influence on the electronics and also remove the daytime running lights module that was installed when the car was imported from the USA..... now guess what?!??! I reconnected the battery and I have the service engine soon, (TC), and hill descent control lights illuminated. I also no longer have gear indication on my odometer and it is lacking serious power. To get to my aquaintance with the 5 door I was revving 3k for 80 kmph. Not good!

My neighbour (auto shop literally next door is a bonus) has the car now to run the codes as they have a very sophisticated scanner. But the rest will be up to me to fix.

Thoughts?
 
Someone has seriously been screwing around electrically with that car, if it were me I'd be looking for a similar age scrap model and harvesting the clean looms out of it.

You'll never be able to trust it even if you think you've got 100% of the wiring back to stock, there may be other stuff lurking under covers...
 
Sadly if only it were that easy to find an se3 at a wreckers here but they weren't sold in Canada so the only ones were imported and only a small handful at that. Even thelandrover dealer here denied it's existence.

The loom is kow back to its original state. There is no more being able to jump start the engine from the trunk. Odds are that when I pulled the last wire I may have dislodged some common wire for the electronic braking systems and put the car into some form of safe mode. I will have to investigate that later today.

If thats the case then once i find the mystery wire/plug i can go back to the original problem that i caused. No power locks no automatic interior light no power windows..... Fingers crossed. But still looking for pointers.

Remaining questions
1) will the ccu from a 2003 5 door with same engine and such work?
2) what causes the tailgate window to refuse to stay in the up position?(automatically goes back down instantly after jumping it to go up and refuses to go up otherwise).
 
It sounds like one of the 5 screwed in fuses has failed. These are close to where the battery cable enters the engine bay fuse box. There a large bolted in main main fuse then 5 or 6 smaller bolted in fuses. I can't remember which one feeds the constant live circuit, but I suspect that it's one of those that have failed. There's no way of telling which has gone by looking at them. A meter or test light is needed to check them for integrity.
Once constant power is restored, the rear window, interior lights and locking should work again.
 
I'll assume you mean the 60A in that fuse box which is located in the 1st position from left fender (at least that's where it is in my car). I did test it but on second thought maybe I should just replace it. I've had a partial fail happen before that didn't show on testing but made things go weird. IIRC it was a radio fuse in my old converted ambulance camper. The radio kept acting up and test light showed good contact but replacing the fuse fixed the problem.... worth a try!
 
It's likly to be fuse 4 of the 5 screwed in fuses. That's the one that powers the circuit you are having problems with.
I'll try to post a picture of it,
 
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