Watching this with interest, because the "kit form 110" I recently picked up is a 7 seater station wagon with a sailsbury rear axle and the load leveller for the rear A arm. And it was in a million pieces so I have it all to do, and to make it worse, no fasteners or anything marked up and I've never worked on a 110 before.
Looking at the shot of your v5c its the same model and type as yours albeit a '89, so that will make it easier to get it registered as a genuine 7 seater during the import process later on.
I've done a sort of mini dry build to see if there's anything major missing and been watching and getting the odd part I know it'll need but don't plan to start the assembly or repair proper for a while as I have two other projects in the queue ahead of it and life will get in the way and derail timely progress on them as usual.
But if you can take lots of pictures, that would be appreciated!

MrF said:

Watching this with interest, because the "kit form 110" I recently picked up is a 7 seater station wagon with a sailsbury rear axle and the load leveller for the rear A arm. And it was in a million pieces so I have it all to do, and to make it worse, no fasteners or anything marked up and I've never worked on a 110 before.
Looking at the shot of your v5c its the same model and type as yours albeit a '89, so that will make it easier to get it registered as a genuine 7 seater during the import process later on.
I've done a sort of mini dry build to see if there's anything major missing and been watching and getting the odd part I know it'll need but don't plan to start the assembly or repair proper for a while as I have two other projects in the queue ahead of it and life will get in the way and derail timely progress on them as usual.
But if you can take lots of pictures, that would be appreciated!

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I plan on removing the load leveler (boge unit I believe) I do not have one on my hardtop and am happy with the setup of that so am just going to replicate it. It needs new suspension anyway so will just fit the appropriate rated springs. I am not sure how easy the self leveling units are to rebuild but I believe not very!

There will be lots of pictures and I will keep this thread updated but it will be a slow process. And once I have swapped the station wagon body onto my hardtop (red one int he picture) it will then be an even slower process to rebuild this vehicle in its entirety.

If it helps at all with yours about 12months ago I finish rebuilding the hardtop after a fire and there are lots of pictures and description in the rebuild thread: LINK. But it was not standard and has a later 200tdi engine and later 300tdi wiring looms throughout which I plan on replicating on the station wagon so the build on that will not be completely standard either. But by making both vehicles the same other than the rear body it makes spares and working on them easier for me as they are both identical.

Thanks, I went through that thread, insurance companies are ****** and good to see you didn't let them weasel out and crush your car... I used to work in a shop that did insurance work 25 years ago, and my opinion of them hasn't got any better with time.

This 110 was devoid of engine/transmission but as per other threads, a LT77, and a 200tdi have been procured in the past fortnight, which gives almost a mirror of the setup that I'm doing on my old faithful '89 90 so I have a common drivetrain platform between the 2 also apart from the differences because one is a 90 and the other a 110.
I'll ask the previous owner about the spring rates to see if he planned doing similar and eliminating the load leveller setup, because he mentioned putting a spring & damper kit on it years ago when he first got it as a unfinished project and had plans to get it on the road alongside his other 110.

dag019 said:

May be a little premature as it needs a lot of rebuilding first but couldn’t turn these tree slider steps down when they came up for sale (thank you @bluehaze). Although they will certainly need to come off again fitting them is the easiest way to store them so they are not cluttering up the garage.

View attachment 313901

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You're welcome

Another update as Progress is slow as expected with a baby but I have just spent my work bonus on some horribly expensive shiny parts from yrm that I immediately made less shiny with a good Twash ready for primer.





Now before I primer these is there anywhere that needs to be seam sealed? I know the bulkhead has lots of places and was suitable sealed before painting when I fitted that but I am much less familiar with the station wagon door pillar setup. There looks to be a couple of places where there are joints which a line of tiger seal will do no harm to but is there anywhere that absolutely needs to be sealed?

another update on this, i have finished rebuilding the front brake callipers (replacements) to fit to this. you might be wondering why i am rebuilding the brakes with everything else that is wrong with it but the answer to that is that the current brakes are seized meaning it doesn't roll so cannot be pushed or towed easily from the position it is in. there is not much point having a vehicle with wheels on if it cannot be moved!

These have been painted (do not think much of the special calliper paint, seems a bit soft, but time will tell), cleaned, had new seals and stainless pistons, and had new brake pads fitted. These might be performance pads but they came in a job lot of parts I acquired so were free to fit for now and my preference is genuine pads anyway. the eagle eyed amongst you may have spotted the brand new radius arm washer on the bench, I still stand by this is the best tool available to fit the seal retaining rings along with a swift sharp tap with a heavy hammer. I only bent two so i am considering that a win!





Now I have done these I will do the same with the rears (diesel jim disc conversion same as my hardtop), and along with the new to me master cylinders should mean that the brakes work and the vehicle rolls when I am done.

Progress has been slow with a baby, but I now have fully prepped and painted sills and galv capping's that I am now hoping to fit over the next month. As part of this I am also planning on painting the rear tub when the capping is off so I can paint the whole tub under the capping as well. This leads me to a couple of questions.

The vehicle is not kept at home so the first questions may seem silly but I cannot just go and have a look:

How are the second row door hinges attached to the -pillar. Are they just bolted through the pillar and accessible on the inside rather than being anything special? If so does anyone know the dimensions required so I can get some stainless replacements for when I fit the new sills.

Second question is one on aesthetics and chequer plate:

Unfortunately the station wagon has chequer plate panels on the rear quarter. Again it is on the list for next time I am with the vehicle to have a look at how it is attached but I assume it is rivetted. These would not have been my choice but as they are there I am reluctant to remove them (will remove for paint but refit to fill holes etc unless when removed the skin underneath is clean and usable). My question is what to do with the chequer plate itself. The body is going to be painted red as is being fitted to my 110 short term (the towing vehicel in the pic on the first post). so to match the rest of the vehicle the chequer plate will either be painted black to match the chequer on the bonnet and wings, or painted body coloured to blend into the side as I don't really want it there. What are peoples preference/recommendations?

You sure that checker plate is not hiding damage?
Paint black to match the rest

Hicap phill said:

You sure that checker plate is not hiding damage?
Paint black to match the rest

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I am not at all. I will remove it to paint but my assumption is that is it hiding damage. I thought that was the only reason you fitted it to the rear quarter.

Hicap phill said:

You sure that checker plate is not hiding damage?
Paint black to match the rest

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On a quick look over the weekend when up there for other things the chequer on the corners is held on with self tapping screws so who knows what i will find when I remove it1 Hoping to do some more work this evening so will try and remove it and see what horrors are underneath!

Hicap phill said:

You sure that checker plate is not hiding damage?
Paint black to match the rest

Click to expand...

Well you called it. Having partially removed the chequer plate the bottom edge of the tub is nonexistent which is what the plate is repairing. I would like to know who fits plate with see tappers, not happy at that bodge. But it is clearly the same person that has fitted the tub support and the mudflap bracket to the chequer plate with flathead roofing bolts! Hence only partially removing. I will need to go back with a die grinder on the drill (no power and no battery angle grinder) to try and free those off to remove the plate entirely.



However on a more positive note I did finally get around to drilling the square holes in the front to fit the later style led lights I had left over from my rebuild. So the front end is now looking like it should even if none of it works.

Get the cheap ryobii batter grinders & up grade the battery. 1 battery fits all. Good for working where there is no electric. Drill/circular saws/grinders all used on horse box build & so far have lasted. Cheap to replace

Hicap phill said:

Get the cheap ryobii batter grinders & up grade the battery. 1 battery fits all. Good for working where there is no electric. Drill/circular saws/grinders all used on horse box build & so far have lasted. Cheap to replace

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This is the issue I have, so far my drill and electric riveter (only battery tools I own) are Milwaukee so am partially committed to that battery tech, but they are then very expensive tools! I am currently looking for a little generator as I think that will be cheaper than buying battery tool versions of the mains tools I currently have.

dag019 said:

This is the issue I have, so far my drill and electric riveter (only battery tools I own) are Milwaukee so am partially committed to that battery tech, but they are then very expensive tools! I am currently looking for a little generator as I think that will be cheaper than buying battery tool versions of the mains tools I currently have.

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Honda do some small case/quiet ones.
Just make sure they can power the tools.

@Bobsticle What genny you got? As your also off grid with your lockups

Hicap phill said:

Honda do some small case/quiet ones.
Just make sure they can power the tools.

@Bobsticle What genny you got? As your also off grid with your lockups

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I picked up a Honda powered Generac generator from FB that seems in good order and by all accounts was a very cheap price so now if I can get some time I am ready to begin the proper work of swapping the sill/B/C posts over and removing the stubborn and stuck bolts preventing me removing the side panels and chequer plate corners.

I am going to post this here as well to keep things in one place but there is also a stand alone thread asking about the details on the body swap conversion LINK

I have a complete (all be it very poor condition and non runner) 1988 station wagon and I have a fully rebuilt every day driver 1989 110 hardtop.
I am looking to swap the rear body of the station wagon over onto the hardtop. The hardtop is currently a daily driver so I am looking to do this in one go as quickly as possible so I am currently gathering the parts I will require in advance.

For the station wagon body itself:

I have the tub and floor panels, seats, seatbelts from the station wagon
I have the toe panel behind the front seatbox both from the station wagon and from a chap on FB who was giving it away
I have new galvanised sill/B/C pillars from YRM that I plan to fit to the station wagon before the body swap
I have new galvanised tub cappings from YRM that I plan to fit to the station wagon before the body swap
I plan on inspecting the rear tub floor and replacing or renovating the tub support members while the tub is off for the swap, YRM do galv ones if required

Is there anything for the bodywork/tub that I have missed on the list above?

I then know that the chassis mounting for a hardtop and a station wagon is different. I am currently putting together the shopping list for all of the body to chassis mounts that I will require because they will not be present on my hardtop and will have rusted away (like everything else steel) on the station wagon. Currently on my shopping list is:

1x Mid station wagon crossmember NRC4171 (YRMlink)
1x Mid Mid station wagon crossmember to sill bracket MRC6360 & MRC6359 (YRMlink)
4x Rear outrigger body mounting NRC5665 (YRMlink)

If required:
1x Front full width lateral tub support MUC8950 (YRMlink)
1x lateral tub support with seatbelt mounting MUC8949 (YRMlink)
3x lateral tub support MUC8949 (YRMlink)

Is there anything for the chassis to body mounting that I have missed on the list above?

Is there anything else I have missed or overlooked as part of this conversion, this is my first experience with anything station wagon!

I made some more progress today, and remove the very rusty passenger side sill/B/C pillar. This came away in three parts as a testament to how badly corroded it was but it came out far more easily than I was expecting. I am hoping if I remove the side steps the new one should just slide up form the bottom and then bolt/rivet into place just as easily. I was expecting it to be a much harder job, but I will hold my toungue as I am only halfway through!

Some more updates, I have managed to remove the side panel and the very rusty capping from the passenger side.



I also managed to open and remove the drivers second row door (Thread LINK) meaning I will now be able to remove the sill/B/C pillar that side. the door card appeared to be a structural member and the door just disintegrated during removal.



I am awaiting a dinitrol delivery to fill the pillars with as much as I can get in there before fitting to try and make it last as long as possible even if they are galvanised. I need to fit the sills before I can paint the tub as there are rivets attaching the tub to the sill that if not done first will then not be painted.

But I have started prepping the rear tub for paint. As much as the photo rover stickers helped me track down a little of the vehicle history (thank you @Dorset_dumpling) one side has now been removed ready to clean and sad the tub down. What is they best thing for removing the remaining sticker glue, meths, brake cleaner?

Also what are the extra little brackets for on the front and the back of the capping? I do not have them on my hardtop and they are not on the replacement form yet. But they were on both sides of the ones I have just removed and are just riveted on. I have salvaged them. But don’t want to go to the effort of de-rusting and painting if they are not actually needed as they didn’t seem to attach to anything other than the capping itself. Also don’t want to unnecessarily drill holes in the new galv capping

Front



Rear

Although I still need to remove the drivers side but it is un riveted and unbolted form everywhere that it would unbolt from, i just need to take the generator with me next time to cut off the remaining rusted remanets of bolts. However the sills are now ready to fit. I have applied neoprene foam tape to everywhere the aluminium will touch them, they have been painted, and now have been filled with Dinitol 3125HS that is the same as I have used in the cavity of the chassis, made sure I put enough in for it to begin leaking out the bottom and have fairly good coverage from the bits I can see. Once set it is fairly dry so should not be messy for passengers unless you are wilfully poking around in side the pillars. I will clean up around the access holes for the door latches so there is nothing remaining on the surface. I know they were galvanised but I like a belt a braces approach, am not planning on getting rid of the vehicle and want them to last as long as possible as they are expensive and not the easiest or quickest parts to replace!







The sills are likely to be the next thing fitted and unfortunately based on @miktdish confirming my concern (link) I will need to top coat the top of the tub before I can fit the capping's. But while I wait for paint to dry i can set about removing the window stickers and paint the side panels ready for refitting once the capping is in place.