Madmustang

Madmustang

Well-Known Member
I finally bought a 2007 Freelander 2 SE it has some issues listed below and hopefully we will be discussing how to resolve them on this thread :) It has just over 113,000 miles with a near complete service history.
At 100,000 it had a new cam belt and water pump. Nearly everything works including the sun roof/satnav/Traction control (Almost)

Now the bad bits:
I don't know if or when the Haldex/Gear box oil has ever been changed
The Engine is hunting or Surging when warm at idle
One of the rear wheels seems very hot after a run
one side of the car has tires with the same amount of good tread whilst the other side has not so much tread (It has had two new tires after punchers)
Bluetooth does not seem to be install on this car
The passenger side door wont open from inside the car
The Bonnet shocks wont hold the bonnet open
The tailgate lock gave an error on the dash (Already fixed by replacing the tailgate lock)
The traction control turns its self off randomly. Some times when I start the car other times it takes a week (Only seems to do this on short trips as I have had some long motorway drives and it didnt do it once)
One of the main beam bulbs has blown ( I know!)
 
Last edited:
Here is the beast
Freelander 2.jpg
 
Welcome to FL2 ownership. I'm enjoying mine, although it's been a bumpy road for me so far.

First off, if you can't prove the Haldex or anything else has had the fluids changed, then do it anyway.

Then engine surging could be anything, but a good place to start is to make sure the fuel filter is a Purflux, which is a genuine filter, aftermarket filter seem to cause issues.

Wheels getting hot could be the caliper sticking, or the parking brake shoes sticking, but it's probably best to simply replace the whole lot, as I did with mine. For some reason people seem to ignore brakes.

Passenger door is probably the cable which joins the handle to the latch.

Bonnet struts simply need replacing.

By TC turning off, do you mean special program off warning on the dash when starting? If so then the battery is fubar, the FL2 needs a new battery every 4 years or so, or issues arise.
If it comes up with a warning while the engine is running, the issue is elsewhere, and a diagnostic read will be needed to identify the cause.

If there's no phone controls on the steering wheel, then BT isn't installed, although it is possible to retrofit it, but it's not plug n play.
 
Nodge68 said:
Welcome to FL2 ownership. I'm enjoying mine, although it's been a bumpy road for me so far.

First off, if you can't prove the Haldex or anything else has had the fluids changed, then do it anyway.

Then engine surging could be anything, but a good place to start is to make sure the fuel filter is a Purflux, which is a genuine filter, aftermarket filter seem to cause issues.

Wheels getting hot could be the caliper sticking, or the parking brake shoes sticking, but it's probably best to simply replace the whole lot, as I did with mine. For some reason people seem to ignore brakes.

Passenger door is probably the cable which joins the handle to the latch.

Bonnet struts simply need replacing.

By TC turning off, do you mean special program off warning on the dash when starting? If so then the battery is fubar, the FL2 needs a new battery every 4 years or so, or issues arise.
If it comes up with a warning while the engine is running, the issue is elsewhere, and a diagnostic read will be needed to identify the cause.

If there's no phone controls on the steering wheel, then BT isn't installed, although it is possible to retrofit it, but it's not plug n play.
Click to expand...
Thanks Nodge, I do have phone controls on the Steering wheel I suspect I just need to check fuses and where the BT box is so I can check the cables.
I do mean "special program off warning on the dash" But it is random and it only happen once at start on the frostiest of days the other times within 20mins and because I now drive to work for 20mins on a motorway, This error seems to be getting less frequent. It hasten happened now for a week. I also suspected the battery (Its what I have read) as the car as I am told only ever did short trips and not every day
 
Oh and I forgot to mention that I was told the Alternator bearing is what is causing the whining sound in the engine bay (Yes the sound is constant with the accelerator petal being pressed whilst the car is parked and goes away if driving and I dip the clutch pedal)
 
Sounds like the battery is past its best, as low voltage when cranking will cause all sorts of errors. Also don't start the engine until the system checks have completed, as this will also cause error codes to be logged.

If the noise goes away when the clutch is depressed, then it's not the alternator, but more likely to be a clutch release bearing, or the gearbox input bearing.
 
Nodge68 said:
Sounds like the battery is past its best, as low voltage when cranking will cause all sorts of errors. Also don't start the engine until the system checks have completed, as this will also cause error codes to be logged.

If the noise goes away when the clutch is depressed, then it's not the alternator, but more likely to be a clutch release bearing, or the gearbox input bearing.
Click to expand...
I will troubleshoot further but it will be a while I am about to start a month long working away from home job so the car won’t get used much until March
 
Ok I thought i would update this thread now that work has finally settled down (1 Month turned into 6!), So I took it to a local garage (Never again) the first issue sorted was the noisy problem in the engine bay. This turned out to be the steering pump. This got replaced along with some brake parts (although I am not happy with this as I suspect cheap euro car parts were used and it don't feel right). They also replace a wore tyre and did the tracking which I suspect caused the next issue to develop (See end of thread for my question on Tyre's). Having driven the car on the motorway at 70 it started shaking at the front end. I had to pull over to get it to stop. I drove it back and asked them to check it. No problem was found to I drove on the motorway again and got the same issue. It did not do this before the new tyre and steering were pump was fitted. I then took it to a land rover specialist (or so they claimed), They told me the wish bones were worn so they replaced those. I asked them to produce a report on anything else which they did and they told me I should have the same tyres fitted and I do not, the haldex was not working and it was leaking. I asked them if all this was related to the low droning sound that I can hear on the motorway and the shaking at 70. They said they could not tell me and could only take the rear diff and haldex off and send them to their specialist and they would be able to tell me whats wrong (I thought you can get stuff with that my friend). So the first step is they get 4 new tyres Hopefully this will stop the shaking at 70. I don't know what OE tires came with the car so after doing lots of searching on LZ and not getting the answer I was after I will ask here. What either OE Tires need to be fitted or equivalent All Weather/Season tires? I don't want Knobbly AT the wheel size is 17" and currently an assortment of 235/65/R17 are fitted.
If they tyres stop the shaking the next step is to ring Bell Engineering and book it in for their free transmission check service and see what they find and recommend.

Thanks
 
I have the same year and model of Freelander and can advise on a couple of your questions.

Tyres: I've always fitted 4 at a time and, up until the last batch, wear on all four corners has been pretty even. Over the past year the rear tyres scuffed away on the outside edge. I replaced all 4 with Yokohama Geolanders and booked the car in for a Hunter 4WD alignment (thread here). I saw no point in fitting expensive 'premium' tyres until I know for sure they aren't going to scuff away in 10k miles. This work has also eliminated some vibration. Not as bad as you describe, but noticeable.

Phone & Bluetooth: Mine connects to my iPhone no problem, but only for calls. There is no 'infotainment' via Bluetooth!
 
Rank Amatuer said:
I have the same year and model of Freelander and can advise on a couple of your questions.

Tyres: I've always fitted 4 at a time and, up until the last batch, wear on all four corners has been pretty even. Over the past year the rear tyres scuffed away on the outside edge. I replaced all 4 with Yokohama Geolanders and booked the car in for a Hunter 4WD alignment (thread here). I saw no point in fitting expensive 'premium' tyres until I know for sure they aren't going to scuff away in 10k miles. This work has also eliminated some vibration. Not as bad as you describe, but noticeable.

Phone & Bluetooth: Mine connects to my iPhone no problem, but only for calls. There is no 'infotainment' via Bluetooth!
Click to expand...
Thanks for the reply, What size and what model of tyres did you get?
 
Madmustang said:
I don't know what OE tires came with the car so after doing lots of searching on LZ and not getting the answer I was after I will ask here. What either OE Tires need to be fitted or equivalent All Weather/Season tires?
Click to expand...

OE tyres are either Goodyear Wrangler HP or Continental Contact 4x4.
Wrangler are about £115 each at the moment at national tyres.

In theory it shouldn't matter what tyres are fitted to the FL2, however in practice it's less stress on the AWD system to have all 4 tyres identical.

Sounds like you're being spun a yarn to me.
Ask on here before commenting to spending any money.
 
Happy New year everyone! So another 5 months has passed, Seriously I don't know where the time goes, So this will be a New year update: Where I left off was Getting 4 new tyres fitted which I did, they were on offer so 4 Goodyear Wrangler HP were fitted, (A new battery was fitted) This helped with the shaking which I will come on to shortly. Also (Can’t remember now) But at least one brake calliper and pads/disks/line etc. were replaced for its MOT. Now then the interesting stuff…I took it to Bell Engineering to cut a long story short they replaced the Haldex, Apparently I should have a Mk3 Haldex but mine had a Mk4 and a later Diff fitted and it was correctly coded to my car so Bell Engineering said only land rover could have done that. 4 Wheel drive now working with no more errors on the dash, Bell Engineering also did some troubleshooting after fitting the haldex and told me that my gearbox bearings are worn, so they took me for a test drive to show me what was happening and I believe them so that will be on the list for replacement this year. Also as a result he thinks the shaking (Only does it once in a blue moon now) is one or more drive shafts. In reverse on full lock there is some what I call wheel scrubbing or snatching when the steering is straighten it goes away. Any thoughts on if this is correct diagnosis?
 
Madmustang said:
Apparently I should have a Mk3 Haldex but mine had a Mk4 and a later Diff fitted and it was correctly coded to my car so Bell Engineering said only land rover could have done that.
Click to expand...

My understanding is that it's impossible to swap to the Gen 4 if a Gen 3 was factory fitted, not even LR can do it apparently.
Be interesting to know how that was done.
 
Yo
Nodge68 said:
My understanding is that it's impossible to swap to the Gen 4 if a Gen 3 was factory fitted, not even LR can do it apparently.
Be interesting to know how that was done.
Click to expand...
You would have to speak to them as he told me it was'ent the first time he saw this happen on old Mk 2 Freelanders. Perhaps a discussion for another thread but its beyond my lowery thought processes. Oh I forgot to mention I replaced the Drivers door lock as it packed in still got the passenger one to do, Also the fuel tank has started leaking when filled beyond half way. Looking at a picture on line the bottom of the fill hose to connected to the tank via a short hose piece and a couple of circlips, Will look into it after the holidays.
 
And as fate would have it (No I am going to blame BREXIT) Went out to get some needed resupply of liquid groceries and in these frosty times the clutch pedal only returns half way unless I move it with my toes to the fully open position. Does this mean my clutch master cylinder is knackered?
 
GrumpyGel said:
Thast's cost a few bob in the year you've had it!
Click to expand...
Yes it has my friend but as all cars will be forceable taken from us in the next few years and money wont exist as it will be deemed a racist capitalist imperialist thrown back. What does it matter the cost as its only money right :)
 
Yeah the Slave cylinder between the gearbox and engine has blown its seals, Pedal to the floor and brake fluid all over the road. Quotes around £1200 + VAT to fix
 
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