Hopefully, as it seems to be jut one cylinder where there is a real problem you'll be able to strip it down and sort it out. It'll be a learning experience! Just lets hope the crank has survived in a usable condition, albeit after maybe a regrind.
All the very best of luck!
Alternatively is there an engine more common in Cyprus that you could put in? Together with its gearbox/Tranny box?
 
Stanleysteamer said:
Alternatively is there an engine more common in Cyprus that you could put in? Together with its gearbox/Tranny box?
Click to expand...

I can't do that now, I'm heavily invested in the gearbox :) My autobox is a rebuilted one from Ashcroft with only 5000 miles on it. So I will stick with a Td5.

After I strip the engine I will report back with my findings.
 
Michalis Karatzis said:
I can't do that now, I'm heavily invested in the gearbox :) My autobox is a rebuilted one from Ashcroft with only 5000 miles on it. So I will stick with a Td5.

After I strip the engine I will report back with my findings.
Click to expand...
Good luck, hope it's not too big a problem. From what I've seen the TD5 is a very strong robust engine, and can take some punishment.
 
Update

I removed the sump and oil pump and I can see conrod #5 is definitely bend. Next I will remove the head and see if it's only a matter of a bend conrod.
 
Michalis Karatzis said:
Update

I removed the sump and oil pump and I can see conrod #5 is definitely bend. Next I will remove the head and see if it's only a matter of a bend conrod.
Click to expand...
May be that's the total damage, I think it would be wise to check everything while you have it open, big end and main bearing shells are relatively cheap, and well worth the effort.

This is how I checked all my conn rods

https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/at-last-the-big-td5-job.349420/page-3

Have a look through may be some help to you.
 
And by the way, the reason for getting water in the airbox that easily was because of the steel aftermarket bumper fitted by the previous owner. The low profile of the bumper and the removal of some of the plastic bits gives easy access to water. A hard splash can very easily direct water to the inside of the wing where the air inlet is. Never crossed my mind that the non oem bumper would be a weak point for the engine. Now I know...
 
Last edited:
Another update

The cylinder head is now removed from the block. It's still impossible to turn the engine by the crank bolt and the pistons/cylinders don't look very healthy to my untrained eye. Considering the cost for conrods, big end and main bearing shells, maybe a crank (and I don't know what else needs replacing) I find it cheaper to look for another engine.

One readily available option is a Td5 engine with a suspected cracked cylinder head that I can buy cheapish and "marry" to my healthy cylinder head.

I don't know where to look for a healthy engine in the UK that I can ship to Cyprus. Any recommendations are welcome :)
 
Another update!

Engine was replaced with one that was removed from a rusty D2 (was running ok before removal). But my problems are not yet solved!

Engine's first start was easy without too much cranking. Checked that everything was ok and took the car for a drive. I noticed a lack of power although boost is ok. Did a stall test and I only got 2200rpm and the revs rise very slowly.
On the second day I turn the engine on and I get engine light on and S&M lights flashing. Restarted a couple of times and issue goes away. No faults recorded on Nanocom. Drive home all seem ok. Next morning car does not start!

Checked fuel pressure at the regulator, bled fuel system, used booster on battery, replaced crank sensor, checked starter, oil in ecu etc...nothing! Didn't start! Sprayed some easy start and it came to life. Restarted the car a few times and it behaved ok. Next day the car started after a couple of seconds of cranking but still it doesn't seem ok or powerfull.

What to check next?
 
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