Ian Mackay said:
Thanks, I saw it, the problem with the internet/forums clubs and such like, is that everyone after a while thinks they are a garu, now don't take this the wrong way but I could say oh by the way the new figure for front hub torque is 275/nm post and in a few months it is accepted, what I really meant when I said WHO said it was this a revised Manufacturers figure, and where can I see this lol, sorry for being picky but that's the engineer coming out, laughed when I look at all those you tube "expert" shops rattling up the nut with a hammer gun, then saying that's it, , nearly always too tight, stretched threads and all that goes with it, had lots of problems with truck garages 1" impact driver putting on wheel nuts, often took a scaffold pole to loosen, and a new set of nuts required and sometimes studs, long short where did the info come from :)
Click to expand...


Ive read it from a few reliable sources on the D3 forums, Robbie and best of all Disco Mikey who makes his living working on them.
I will see if I can find it as Im now curious!

Bit of digging and best I can find is land rover lowered the torque to extend the life of the wheel bearing.
 
Last edited:
Ian Mackay said:
Thanks, I saw it, the problem with the internet/forums clubs and such like, is that everyone after a while thinks they are a garu, now don't take this the wrong way but I could say oh by the way the new figure for front hub torque is 275/nm post and in a few months it is accepted, what I really meant when I said WHO said it was this a revised Manufacturers figure, and where can I see this lol, sorry for being picky but that's the engineer coming out, laughed when I look at all those you tube "expert" shops rattling up the nut with a hammer gun, then saying that's it, , nearly always too tight, stretched threads and all that goes with it, had lots of problems with truck garages 1" impact driver putting on wheel nuts, often took a scaffold pole to loosen, and a new set of nuts required and sometimes studs, long short where did the info come from :)
Click to expand...
Very true I've seen land cruisers (sorry) with all the wheel studs fractured at the base through over tightening and two actually fallen off. Non engineers can't always feel when they've reached the elastic limit
 
jamesmartin said:
they will if you hold the trigger long enough
Click to expand...


They are an animal there isnt much it wont touch, its my favourite for prop bolts (m14 with loctite) which can be a right sod.
When my snap on 3/4 mg1250 broke (most peed off) I used the MG725 to remove and refit truck wheels for about 3 weeks then it spat its dummy out, hardly surprising really as its a big ask.
 
neilly said:
What torque are truck wheels done up to?

Cheers
Click to expand...
Can't remember off the top of my head neilly, did vary, 22mm nuts, on typically daf/foden, about 450/550 n/m, scania 650n/m or something like that, need to look at my giant torque wrench out in the shed, these were checked every morning and on an 8 legger that's a lot of nuts so important, if one of these big wheels come off they do kill, and guarantee your licence/job is gone, its the first thing the VOSA inspector goes for on a check up, and for good reason.
 
neilly said:
What torque are truck wheels done up to?

Cheers
Click to expand...

It used to be 450 lbsft but about 10/15 years ago it went to 500 lbsft pretty much across the board, Iirc it was one of the big supermarkets that upped the figure and everyone else followed suit.
Wheel loss is still a big issue on hgvs and you can imagine the damage they can do, its a very tricky subject. so many variables and the main issue is clamping force and not just outright torque.

Many firms follow the same procedure and it is,
spin the nuts up
torque to 500
wait 30 mins torque again to 500 fit red indicators
first run when back to base retorque and fit yellow indicators and sign all the paperwork off.

Then every 8 weeks the trucks are inspected and the nuts check torqued again.
 
What I found worth a mention was I had ALLOY WHEELS on my foden truck, now these wheels could loosen off and the indicators would not have moved, unlike STEEL WHEELS whose indicators just unwound.
 
Ian Mackay said:
What I found worth a mention was I had ALLOY WHEELS on my foden truck, now these wheels could loosen off and the indicators would not have moved, unlike STEEL WHEELS whose indicators just unwound.
Click to expand...


Did it have the really deep shouldered wheel nuts like the Dafs?
Right bugger to line back up when refitting.
What engine did it have?
All the yrs Ive been doing this and only worked on 3 Fodens, best one had the Cat engine super lazy, also sounded great when Jake was applied.
 
My Foden, best part was the Cat engine, loved it, I also really liked the eaton split box, loads of ratios to keep you moving, or great for off road with the 4 wheel drive, newer trucks had the cummings engine, it was not stepped wheel nuts, fairly normal nuts with a large rotating ring, Jake brake was often used, moving the camshafts shutting the valves and basically turning the engine into a compressor, aye I miss it, one of the best parts was a quite unusual, "elephants feet" suspension, only had to change them once, unfortunately it was -12° that night, but big job that could not be missed next morning, so like always job done.
 
Last edited:
lynall said:
Ive read it from a few reliable sources on the D3 forums, Robbie and best of all Disco Mikey who makes his living working on them.
I will see if I can find it as Im now curious!

Bit of digging and best I can find is land rover lowered the torque to extend the life of the wheel bearing.
Click to expand...
That's good enough for me, I'll use the lighter setting.
 
Ian Mackay said:
My Foden, best part was the Cat engine, loved it, I also really liked the eaton split box, loads of ratios to keep you moving, or great for off road with the 4 wheel drive, newer trucks had the cummings engine, it was not stepped wheel nuts, fairly normal nuts with a large rotating ring, Jake brake was often used, moving the camshafts shutting the valves and basically turning the engine into a compressor, aye I miss it, one of the best parts was a quite unusual, "elephants feet" suspension, only had to change them once, unfortunately it was -12° that night, but big job that could not be missed next morning, so like always job done.
Click to expand...


30 yrs ago we had some tanker trailers with elephants feet suspension, only ever seen it once again and that was one of the fodens an 8 wheeler tipper, was old even then 51 plate and it just kept going, had to do a clutch in it once, not a happy bunny it was oil leak central, and to top it all the flywheel was so worn the spigot bearing just span in its hole, centre punch and loctite had it on its way!
 
lynall said:
30 yrs ago we had some tanker trailers with elephants feet suspension, only ever seen it once again and that was one of the fodens an 8 wheeler tipper, was old even then 51 plate and it just kept going, had to do a clutch in it once, not a happy bunny it was oil leak central, and to top it all the flywheel was so worn the spigot bearing just span in its hole, centre punch and loctite had it on its way!
Click to expand...
Aye, my 8 wheeler I ran for 6 years 2000 plate, owner driver for Bardon concrete (jaegar) done all my own maintenance, remember changing the clutch, had the gearbox balanced on my chest, then kinda tipped it to the one side, then clutch, dropped a sling down through the chassis rails and lowered/replaced with my hiab arm, done the big ends/mains whilst at it, would have been great to have had some big garage ramps.
 
Hub removal from Discovery 3, that was seriously tight, the 12 pound mallet was not doing it, just hard enough to get a swing, so large bolt as jack, and once the gap started, penetrating oil down front, and more important pushed shaft in and sprayed from back, then two opposing wedges, result. :)
 

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