yer, i understand what your saying. it just shows how little movement you need in 1 wheel to cause you to swerve from the inside lane into the hard shoulder, back into the 1st lane and finally back onto the hard shouler! at a top speed of 55mph.
took me by surprise anyway.

and i was joking about my engine blowing up when it went past 160,000 miles only 11miles BEFORE the hub blew up!

G
 
well...

half time score: tinkin wheel bearing (0) Dremel (1) ;)

got most of the way through with the dremel, have to go out and buy a chisel tomorrow and have a hack. dont think i will have to buy a new one, unless i screw the surface of the stubby. it only took 30min to get through in 3 places :)

ive been mountain boarding all day so havent touched the landy until just now.
 
freaking thing :mad:

bearing: 0 team dremel/chisel: 1 stub axle: 3

i got the bearing off and thought i would take the uneven surface off (with the dremel) when i went to slide the new bearing on, it wouldnt go. the surface of the stubby is raised.

now im not a metal-ologist... or whatever they call themselves. but would this be caused from metal fatigue from overheating?

i thought about taking it to a fabricator across the road from work to take it down and polish the surface to the right size to fit the bearing. but will i be making the stub axle weaker? is it already FUBAR'ed? and would it be better to buy a new one?

thanx again you excellent excellent people! ;)

G
 
You want to be at a machine shop to have it ground to size, about half an hours work at owt beween 50 and a nundred quid an hour.

Buy a new un and have done. 28 quid did you say? how much for piece of mind? and with all the ****ing about to get it ground to size....................
 
yer i think your right grunt. i wanted it fitted by the weekend though. being bank hols an all :( bollox, disaster! maybe paddocks can get it to me fri if i pay them more. who knows. dont know anyone else local who may have it. there is the main stealer. but prob be way over £30. doh!

G
 
HELP ME :(

i got a new stub axle today and fitted it, put the hub on and stuff. then i noticed that the halfshaft was solid out of the end of the stub axle. i think its the half shaft or is it called the CV joint? anyway when the old one was on, it moved around a little. now its solid. if i turn the prop it will move, but not very easily.

is it meant to float a bit? and if so what could i have done wrong? when i pulled the old stubby off the CV joint came out with it. i fiddled around and located it back in. maybe its in the wrong place? it moves around freely. i dont understand the workings of the diff and halfshaft.

does anyone know whats going on or what i may have potentially done wrong, or is this just normal when you fit a new stubby, seals and bearings?

i dunno what to do!

HELP

G
 
whats the point in pics? they wont show you how much it moves, if it moves at all. the splined bit the drive flange attaches too. once the stubby is on, it dont move. i thought it was meant to have a bit of float.

G
 
in wur? nothing came out. so ive nothing in. the new stubby came with a seal and solid bass ring thing. i installed these the same as the old one.

i did read that you adjust the end float by using shims between the end of the stub and the drive member. but how would shims enable the halfshaft to move at all? im not even at the end float stage! it doesnt float when the stub axle is in place. pulled the CV joint and half shaft out, everything seems fine there.

should the stub axle and half shaft be such a tight fit?
 
EEeeeeeeeeeeeeee lad.

Has the CV joint gone back over the half shaft properly. Did the halfshaft come out of its seating in the diff and if so has it gone back properly. Has the new stub shaft bush (brass ring) and oil seal gone on properly, are they damaged stopping the stubshaft seating onto the outer half shaft (CV joint) properly. Has the hub gone on properly.
 
thanks for the reply grunt, i wish you were here yesterday :( i couldnt sleep last night wondering what could be wrong. i initially had 2 problems. the stub axle not allowing the halfshaft to float freely and when everything was on, there wasnt enough halfshaft left for the circlip.

i tried the old stubby, halfshaft fine, new stubby halfshaft stuck.

anyway, i thought, as you suggested that the stubby wasnt engaging the CV joint properly. so tonight i got out my calipers and would you believe it, the brass ring on the old stubby had an internal diameter slightly larger than that of the new one. so i drifted both out and swapped them. :)

problem solved ;) i dont know if i got the bearing preload right though. it felt tight but when i fitted the wheel it wobbled slightly. so i took the drive flange and bits off with the wheel still on and tightened the bearings up as tight as i possibly could with that **** hub socket you can buy and a small bar through it (so not very tight then). with the wheel on, it wobbles a fraction is this ok?

it might even be my swivel housing and not the hub.

anyway, thanks for all your help guys, really appreciated. id be F^&%ed without you. thanks for the sound and quick advice grunt. your experience is invaluable :)

so my bank holiday is back on the cards now!

G
 
The stub shaft bush bore will be smaller cos the old one will have worn by quite a bit.

The wheel bearings need a bit of play in them or they'll **** up. If they're too tight then the inner race will spin on the shaft and you'll end up back where you started. As a general rule of thumb tighten the first nut up finger tight then back it off a gnats cock hair, put the lock washer on then the locknut and tighten the locknut up without moving the first nut, This int easy. You should be able to feel the play in the hub without fitting the wheel if you've got a good feel for that kind of thing and definitely be able to feel a slight knock with the wheel fitted. The best way to do it is with a clock gauge and you won't have any bother at all.
 
**** **** :( i rammed the 1st nut on as tight as a cock up a duck...

disaster! will have to take it all apart again and back it off a little. maybe as the bearings seat properly this will be the case.

thanks again grunt, i have no idea what im doing!
 
thers no torque setting for this from what i can gather but the book says , tighten it up until you can feel drag on the hub when you rotate it , then back off a quarter turn.
it will need doing again when all ther grease beds in properly.
i had to do mine again around 200 miles later.
top tip is to buy the original workshop manual , its all in there.;)
 
No you don't torque them up the proper way to do it is to measure the end float with a clock gauge (The new word for them is a Dial Test Indicator, DTI. Who the **** came up with that name and why I don't know. I remember an apprentice asking the foreman for the DTI, and he didn't have a clue what one was so called me over. When I told him the apprentice wanted a clock gauge the foreman belted the apprentice on the lugg'ole and said in his strong Scottish accent, " It's a ****ing clock gauge so call it a ****ing clock gauge". Since then I've called them FCGs. Eeeeee memories eh.)

Any how You don't want me wittering away about the old days, the endfloat should be

0.05mm - 0.10mm or 0.0019" (1.9 thou) - 0.0039" (3.9 thou)
 
top tip , the hole in the middle of the half shaft looking out from the driving member is threaded , screw a bolt down into it and use grips to pull the half shaft out towords you to get the shimms and circlip on.
 
cheers guys, its done now and got me to Swansea last night. will have a look at the hub again mid week. will prob need adjusting by then as the bearings set.
 
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