SedgeDrover

New Member
I introduced myself yesterday, so here is the first question.... I know that this may have been done to death, but I am struggling for a definitive answer. Any help would be much appreciated!

I have the very dated Becker SatNav stereo, which I would like to upgrade, with a multi-changer, steering wheel control and Harman Kardon speakers and amp.

Can anyone tell me please, is there anything that I can just buy and plugged in which will work with the existing connectors and not blow the amp? I have seen it suggested that a Blaupunkt will just plug in - is that correct? Is there any thing else that will work?

If nothing will plug in what are my options - or do I need an ICE specialis?

Unless someone knows otherwise I assume that it is goodbye to the multi-changer, but with an adapter I can keep the steering wheel controls.

Any help really would be appreciated as I could do with Bluetooth hands-free, and the existing stereo buttons are becoming erratic!
 
Hi, I just saw your post. I upgraded the audio in my 2005 Freelander HSE a few months ago. I’m using a new Alpine head unit with the HK amplifier. Let me know if you have any questions. Hope this helps!

-New head unit-
I’m using an Alpine CDE-296BT. The audio quality for both radio and Bluetooth is very nice. However, the voice control (for activating Google voice or Siri) doesn’t work well, sometimes it starts and sometimes it doesn’t – this might be a problem with the phone. I can’t assign a steering wheel button for voice control.
Another annoying issue when playing MP3s from a CD or usb stick is the unit plays the files in the order there were written on the disc instead of alphabetically. I think they are using an absolutely ancient chip to provide this functionality. The problem can be worked around by using a utility like this:
http://techmadeplain.com/2014/how-to-sort-music-flash-drive-car-stereo/
However, the Alpine does have two very useful features for this vehicle: a built-in steering wheel interface and the ability to disable the internal amp.
If I had to purchase it again, I’d seriously consider the earlier model CDE-W235BTwhich seems to have about the about the same features for a good bit less. The Becker unit, if in good shape, is quite valuable; I sold mine for £77.

-Using the Amp-
This is definitely possible. The amp doesn’t interface with the head unit at all except for the audio signals (I’m not sure how it gets the power on signal, but it works). As you mentioned, the issue is supplying unamplified audio from the head unit to the amp.
The “normal” way to do this is to add an active volume reducer between the head unit output and the amp like this:
http://incartec.co.uk/Pages/Product.aspx?P=3528
Fortunately, this isn’t necessary with the Alpine unit because it has line-out and the ability to turn off the internal amp.
Although the Becker unit and Freelander are fitted with standard ISO connectors, just like the Alpine, with the amp off, no audio is sent to the Alpine’s connector; instead, it has phono line-out jacks.
I soldered together a phono plug to ISO socket adapter lead with parts from Maplin.
If I remembered correctly, the other ISO plug which contains power and miscellaneous signals goes straight into the head unit with no adapter needed.
All the speakers are working including the subwoofer, although I’ve found that the audio quality is better with bass boost enabled as otherwise the sub is quite quiet.

-CD changer-
Practically, this can’t be kept because no recent head unit is available with a CD changer connector. Some older ones are fitted with one, but these don’t include A2DP stereo Bluetooth which is more valuable for me. I sold mine on eBay for £30.

-Steering wheel controls-
The normal way here is to use an active converter box to convert the signals from the steering wheel buttons to another format for the head unit and I purchased the parts from InCarTec. I believe this is actually what happens with the stock Becker unit as it uses different remote control signals from the other head units offered with the car. The Disco 2 is very similar (although the steering wheel plug is different) and this page explains more:
http://www.discovery2.co.uk/navigation.html
It’s not well documented anywhere, but if you use the Alpine head unit, you don’t need to do anything other than connect the wire from the steering wheel buttons to the Alpine’s remote control interface. Not only is this cheaper, it’s also more responsive as there is a delay when using an active adapter.
I purchased an active steering wheel adapter from InCarTec than included a special lead that connected to the steering wheel controls on the steering column. I’m not sure where to buy this lead separately, but if you don’t mind tampering with the car’s wiring you can simply tap into the wiring. You need to connect to pins 5 and 6 on the steering wheel to the Alpine’s interface. The InCarTec page for their adapter includes an illustration:
http://incartec.co.uk/Instructions/29-626_Landrover.pdf
Another thing I did was modify the steering wheel controls to include a Mode button from a Discovery 2. To do this, you’ll need to buy a Disco switch, take both the Disco switch and the Freelander switch apart including drilling out the rivets holding the switch circuit board to the plastic housing and then put the Disco board together with the Freelander parts. I was planning to use the Mode button to activate voice control but it seems that the Alpine unit doesn’t support it, so right now I using it for Play / Pause. The steering wheel controls are completely customizable with the Alpine’s built-in controls.

-DIN housing-
I installed a double-din size unit. This requires removing the existing single-din facia and replacing it with a double din facia. The Alpine includes a cage, but for a secure fit, I needed to drill holes and bolt the cage to the facia adapter. Alternatively, you could fit a single-din sized unit which shouldn’t require any changes.

-Summary-
Parts needed:

Recommended Alpine settings
  • Turn off subwoofer output
  • Turn off internal amp
  • Enable and configure steering wheel controls
  • Enable bass boost
  • Turn off always on clock
 
Thanks you - that is a fantastic, very thorough and unbelievably helpful response.

I have a factory Alpine CDE-133BT head unit in my Defender and am very happy with that so will definitely go for an Alpine. Do you know if that (or any other) single Din unit does everything that I need for the Freelander HSE?

And I am now going to look at the Disco control unit, as that sounds great.

Thanks again!
 
The CDE-133BT has the "POWER IC" feature which lets you turn off the internal amp and get line level audio out but does not have the right steering wheel interface. Alpine has two types of steering wheel controls: the "Steering Remote Control Interface Connector" type which is an minijack socket for use with an active adapter box and the "Adaptive Steering Remote Control" which is a three short leads fitted with bullet connectors. The best way to see which units are compatible is to check the wiring diagram on the downloadable installation manuals because the product page does not distinguish between the two interfaces.
 
The CDE-133BT has the "POWER IC" feature which lets you turn off the internal amp and get line level audio out but does not have the right steering wheel interface. Alpine has two types of steering wheel controls: the "Steering Remote Control Interface Connector" type which is an minijack socket for use with an active adapter box and the "Adaptive Steering Remote Control" which is a three short leads fitted with bullet connectors. The best way to see which units are compatible is to check the wiring diagram on the downloadable installation manuals because the product page does not distinguish between the two interfaces.

Hi Eric,
You sent me this very helpful reply last year and then life got in the way....

Life is still in the way, but I am now going to do this anyway. Could you tell me please, if you can remember, do I need the minijack socket connector or the three short leads with bullet connectors?

Many thanks,

Ben
 
You need the three short leads with the bullet connectors as this means the device has the steering wheel adapter built-in. The ones with a minijack socket require an adapter box.
 

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