SouthYorks

SouthYorks

Member
Back yet again🫡 2006 2.0 TD4 MK1 AUTO
In the middle of removing my high pressure fuel pump.
Current stage -

Battery disconnected
Intake manifold stripped
Starter motor stripped

Ready to lock the flywheel , then support engine , remove engine mount and push the pump owt. Only problem is the information I have is for a manual and states the flywheel should be locked using a bolt . My auto does not have the same flywheel plate though .
Any advice ??
 
Hi,

Where do find that information that you need to lock the flywheel ?

The hp pump is still in place ?

Do you have this tool :

1738599762831.png


Ragards
 
Last edited:
You can lock the drive plate on an auto. But for HP pump would question why you would do that. Use the tool above.
 
Thanks guys
I do have the specialist tools LRT 12-178 ect.
I wanted to lock the flywheel as apparently other peoples engine are turning over when trying to remove the nut to fit the specialist tool. And I imagine the engine will turn over when trying to tighten the same nut (behind the Allen key blanking plate)
The video link in question also locks his flywheel , so that's why I was enquiring about locking the flywheel.
Is your guys general consensus to go ahead without locking the flywheel then ?
Thanks all !
 
SouthYorks said:
Thanks guys
I do have the specialist tools LRT 12-178 ect.
I wanted to lock the flywheel as apparently other peoples engine are turning over when trying to remove the nut to fit the specialist tool. And I imagine the engine will turn over when trying to tighten the same nut (behind the Allen key blanking plate)
The video link in question also locks his flywheel , so that's why I was enquiring about locking the flywheel.
Is your guys general consensus to go ahead without locking the flywheel then ?
Thanks all !
Click to expand...
Use the crankshaft bolt head, and hold it still with a long spanner wedged against the ground or some other structural part underneath.
Alternatively just impact the spanner removing the pulley bolt. It's not done up very tight, so a quick tap on the socket handle will normally crack them loose.
 
On the L Series diesel, the timing of injection is all done by the pump, but the TD4 is by the injectors, the pump just provides the pressure to the common rail.

However, isn't it driven by the timing chain?

That being the case - yes, you would need everything locked or else you're in trouble when you start releasing the chain.
 
I have got a crankshaft pulley locking tool do we all think this would be as safe as locking the flywheel up ? Thanks
 

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SouthYorks said:
I have got a crankshaft pulley locking tool do we all think this would be as safe as locking the flywheel up ? Thanks
Click to expand...
Yes, that's perfect. No need to mess about with the flywheel.
The pump nut is only something like 40Nm IIRC.
 
Follow this link below and you should be ok the HPFP sprocket nut 21mm is about 65nm the regulator torx screws are 9nm as already stated you can lock the crank up using a spanner on the crank bolt if you do not have the crank locking tool.

www.landyzone.co.uk

High pressure fuel pump nut

Hi, I'm in the process of removing the High pressure fuel pump from my Freelander 1. Close to the stage where I will be using the special tool to release the pump. When I am trying to loosen off the 21mm nut that's inside the blanking cover, the engine wants to turn. Is this because I haven't...
www.landyzone.co.uk www.landyzone.co.uk
 
or as you have the starter motor out of the way, use a pry bar or large screwdirver in the flywheel cogs.
 
Well my update is that I took the 17mm Allen key blanking plate off this morning.
Couldn't find my crankshaft tool so locked the crank up with a breaker bar.
Popped off the 17 mm Allen key plate
And then removed the 21mm nut inside .
Wonderful no problems , going to be easy after all I thought.. anyway next step fitting the special tool !
Part 1 screwed in lovely .. part 2 though refuses too. Really at the end of my witts here. Loosened off part 1 and tried again ... no luck still ?
Loosing my mind. Literally back to back jobs on this girl and not 1 has gone smoothly 😒
Please help aha thanks
 
What do we reckon 🤔
Is that the thread that's bent in there ?
 

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Hard to see. Looks like it might have been slipping on the cog and the marks are nut spin marks?? Might be your problem. Was the nut loose ??
 
Did this job Wednesday on a friends FL1 battery earth off, take the weight of the engine with a trolley jack piece under the sump, manifold was already removed from a previous job, starter motor removed, top mount removed, jack up the engine a little to gain access to the blanking plug 17mm, remove the 21mm sprocket nut, insert first part of the special tool screw in fully then back it off at least three threads, insert second part and turn anticlockwise just to find the thread then turn clockwise to screw in, once you have it started screw in a little then tighten up the first part the rest should be ok.
 
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