As per an earlier thread, i have got the rebuilt engine sitting on the bare chassis and running. Sounds OK. Just in the process of sorting out the cooling system at the moment.
My plan is to then stick the rebuilt gearbox on the back of the engine and test it. I had a dry run of installing the gearbox today (haven't installed the clutch yet) and it seems ok (although space is tight) to get the gearbox attached.

I was hoping to avoid installing anything else until i have run through the gears on the gearbox with the engine running. When i took the gearbox off, there was a rattling noise, which i am hoping i have addressed by replacing the bearings (the main bearing being very worn). If the gearbox still rattles or misbehaves, i would then plan to remove it and take it to some professionals to rebuild "properly".

It occurs to me that I am going to have trouble changing gears if i can't operate the clutch. To do this properly would require me to install the bulkhead, clutch box/pedal and master/slave/pipework etc.

Is there a way to operate the clutch to change gear without have master/slave/pedal/bulkhead in place?

I think most of us in this situation would have bulkhead, clutch, brake and steering controls, engine and box/transfer box in place. then run and drive the truck a bit even if it is only a short way. In low box you can go through all the gears. no need to fit seatbox/floors just sit on tank.
Can not see much point in running it unloaded with the engine, one can turn it by hand to do that and see if all gears engage.

They do tend to rattle a bit when testing in landy without load through the gears with no prop connected but once on the road mine was ok after rebuilt gearbox.
You should be able to select gears and turn brake drum gearbox off engine

You've changed the bearings, and presumably picked out the bigger bits of broken synchro rings, so as long as you left the end float somewhere about right it'll be fine!

Have you thought about the spigot bearing at all ?

boguing said:

You've changed the bearings, and presumably picked out the bigger bits of broken synchro rings, so as long as you left the end float somewhere about right it'll be fine!

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I changed all the bearings except the reverse one as the race doesn't come out without more work than I was happy to do. My car is series 3 but the inards of the gearbox are series 2 (don't know why) so only synchro only 3 &4. in general the gears looked ok, bit worn but serviceable. Replaced seals. End float was good. Sitting on a pallet the gearbox behaves ok, just a bit nervous when it is installed on the vehicle.

sprie said:

I changed all the bearings except the reverse one as the race doesn't come out without more work than I was happy to do. My car is series 3 but the inards of the gearbox are series 2 (don't know why) so only synchro only 3 &4. in general the gears looked ok, bit worn but serviceable. Replaced seals. End float was good. Sitting on a pallet the gearbox behaves ok, just a bit nervous when it is installed on the vehicle.

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A noisy reverse will only be a problem if you bolloxed the selecter fork meshing and that's the only gear you can get when the pub's ten minutes off closing.