joe27979

Well-Known Member

• Oct 3, 2013

• #1

Hi all,
I'm taking pics step by step of my swivel replacement using the Britpart DA3181 kit.
The kit was from Paddocks at £69.57+vat

DA3181 | Swivel Housing Kit (later type with steering arm on the bottom - from mid 1960s)

This is what you get:
(library pic)

First off put front axle on stands, I was replacing brake cylinders so I stripped all brake parts off:

Next I had to remove free wheeling hubs so I marked em up

and took cap off by undoing ring if Philip head screws, 6 of them:
I then needed to put the gear back in to stop drive shaft turning when taking nut off, take split pin out of case and unscrew mechanism-put it back on shaft:

remove castel nutand pull hub away:

bend back washer and remove stub nuts, making note of order and pull off stub:

to reveal:

now check distance piece oil seal, mines rusty so will replace:

next release tabs and remove brake back plate:

more to follow.......

 

GingerPuss

Active Member

• Oct 3, 2013

• #2

That is excellent mate.....well done. I like a good photo-guide.

 

joe27979

Well-Known Member

• Oct 3, 2013

• #3

pull out driveshaft and inspect your joint..my hardy spicer looks ok and feels tight, but it's rusty and I can see pins in bearings-this normal?:

now take note if how many splines you have :

housing with shaft removed:

next release steering arm ball joints, and then undo bottom king pin:

undo top king pin, keep all your shins in Order as a reference although new ball will require different amount of shims.

lift housing off to reveal this, your bottom taper bearing will fall out:

my balls were hidden under a leather pouch...they were pitted!!

everything off:

took pic off existing ball, I take it new one goes in the same way-sloping top in from vehicle to bottom away from vehicle??

 

Rattlegun

Well-Known Member

• Oct 3, 2013

• #4

Have a look at the bottom of the first page of this link a few half useful observations on balls!

http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f6/rattleguns-series-rebuild-210097.html

 

joe27979

Well-Known Member

• Oct 3, 2013

• #5

Rattlegun said:

Have a look at the bottom of the first page of this link a few half useful observations on balls!

http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f6/rattleguns-series-rebuild-210097.html

Click to expand...

Thanks for link-nice balls

did you use Britpart bearings?
The ball and hub kit I got from paddocks are Britpart bearings

 

Rattlegun

Well-Known Member

• Oct 3, 2013

• #6

I didn't get bearings for the hubs as the timkens that were in there felt good. The swivel taper bearings and railko were the ones in the kit. It hasn't been driven yet though! Must update thread. Have you taken the swivels off yet? The six bolts are a total arse as they're whitworth. I slightly ground a 16mm spanner I think. I replaced them with M10 metric with nylocs on as they were in a poor state. I think I bought a bag of 100 if you want a dozen.

 

joe27979

Well-Known Member

• Oct 3, 2013

• #7

Rattlegun said:

I didn't get bearings for the hubs as the timkens that were in there felt good. The swivel taper bearings and railko were the ones in the kit. It hasn't been driven yet though! Must update thread. Have you taken the swivels off yet? The six bolts are a total arse as they're whitworth. I slightly ground a 16mm spanner I think. I replaced them with M10 metric with nylocs on as they were in a poor state. I think I bought a bag of 100 if you want a dozen.

Click to expand...

swivels tomorrow...hopefully!!!
Would love a dozen if you can spare em?

 

samc88

Drivels spiritual representative

• Oct 3, 2013

• #8

The bearings with pins in them are roller bearings I think with pins instead of ball bearings

 

joe27979

Well-Known Member

• Oct 3, 2013

• #9

samc88 said:

The bearings with pins in them are roller bearings I think with pins instead of ball bearings

Click to expand...

yep they are roller but I've not seen them exposed before :-/

 

D

divie

Well-Known Member

• Oct 3, 2013

• #10

Nice work there. When I did mine I modified the top swivel pin (kingpin) to make it greaseable by putting in lathe and drilling/tapping for grease nipple and a grease groove around the pin diameter. I also run free wheeling hubs and do not always lock em up every week or so. The odd pump of grease gives me piece of mind and does no harm mixed with the one shot lube.

 

samc88

Drivels spiritual representative

• Oct 3, 2013

• #11

joe27979 said:

yep they are roller but I've not seen them exposed before :-/

Click to expand...

Oh I see what you mean now I have no idea sorry, will have a look at mine when I sort it out

 

R

RobertP

Active Member

• Oct 4, 2013

• #12

Good pictures. I'll be very interested to see how you get the half shafts back in. I found that was the worst part of the job. The long one was a real pig!

 

Rubins4

Well-Known Member

• Oct 4, 2013

• #13

Dear god I need this thread to finish before I start my front axle

 

joe27979

Well-Known Member

• Oct 4, 2013

• #14

continued a bit tonight, off with the swivel-I found 15mm spinners suitable.
Wire brushing and spraying with plusgas last night had them undo really easily:

to reveal the axle oil seal...that I forgot to order!! doh!:

back of swivel reveals a bearing:

knocked out as it seems ok to reuse:

tada:

next was railko bush and new bottom taper bearing race:

then slip on your new swivel seal and backing plate..

bearing in new swivel:

swivel hanging on two threads temporarily, popping to Landrover tomorrow to see if they have new axle seals in stock..gutted as I have a craddocks delivery tomorrow of new axle bolts that cost me £22 delivery charge!!!!

remember washer inside railko bush!:

more tomorrow if I get my oil seals, should be cleaning up swivel housing!

 

Last edited: Oct 4, 2013

T

Thor1950

Well-Known Member

• Oct 4, 2013

• #15

you use new bearings and race?

 

joe27979

Well-Known Member

• Oct 4, 2013

• #16

Thor1950 said:

you use new bearings and race?

Click to expand...

new bearing and race for bottom of swivel? yes..

used old bearing in back of swivel-it has no race

 

joe27979

Well-Known Member

• Oct 4, 2013

• #17

dunno wether to stick ep90 back in or the grease...surely the needle rollers in shaft uj work better in oil rather than grease? I guess it's the age old question!

 

Blackburn

Well-Known Member

• Oct 5, 2013

• #18

Disc in Railco bush should be soaked in EP90 before ftting.

 

joe27979

Well-Known Member

• Oct 5, 2013

• #19

Blackburn said:

Disc in Railco bush should be soaked in EP90 before ftting.

Click to expand...

good tip!

I'm now off to get a new axle seal and swivel half shaft bearing...thought I might as well, Landrover say 244150 is now obsolete so I'm driving an hour away to get a couple...grrrr

 

jamesmartin

Well-Known Member

• Oct 5, 2013

• #20

joe27979 said:

new bearing and race for bottom of swivel? yes..

used old bearing in back of swivel-it has no race

Click to expand...

it does its on half shaft