B

brianconwy

Well-Known Member
I am trying to remove the towbar from our Disco 2 but the bolts are badly rusted. I have tried plusgas and an impact driver and have got nowhere. Can't use heat because of the fuel tank. Any ideas?
 
If the heads have not sheared off already have you tried a longer bar on the handle of a socket wrench?
My Impact driver just could not shift the T14 headed bolts on my P38 rear bumper, but an old ratchet and the T14 socket and a bit of pipe did it with no trouble.
If the heads have sheared off, you may have to try and drill the bolts out. When I put mine back they were given a generous dollop of copperslip for next time.
Good luck.
 
Mixture of ATF and nail varnish remover, paint it on the threads and wherever you can get it, then bash the criap out of the end of the big bolt-head and around the sides of the nut, hitting the flats directly. The idea is to knock them just a tiny, tiny amount out of round to allow your easing fluid into the gap. Get two long breaker bars and extension tubes, if necessary. Don't worry about trying to use two bars at the outset, you need to get the whole shebang moving a bit. First, put a bar and extension on the outside hex head, extend to the max in a clockwise direction then stand on it. The idea of tightening it first is to break the crust of rust. If it cracks a bit and/or turns you are starting it off. If this fails, jack the back of the Landie up, rest the bar on the ground or the top of an axle stand, to your right, then let the Landie down using its weight to move the bolt and nut. Once it is on the move, rest the end of the back bar on the ground on the left, looking at it from the rear, so that as you move it the back one resists. Then stand on the outside bar in anti clockwise direction. They are really big nuts and bolts so I doubt you'll shear them off. If you do well, new ones can't be that expensive. I had the same problem ages ago and had to do this. A heat gun will not set your fuel on fire, I doubt, but there is only any point in using it on the nuts, you don't want to heat the bolt. But if you heat it up then spray the bolt with something cold, like WD or even iced water, it may help to crack the rust. Lock washers will give you the confidence of the assembly on reassembly but copperslip on the nut will help to get them undone again. I personally put two nuts on, as locknuts to ensure my FO big trailer doesn't go on holiday without us!
 
Stanleysteamer said:
Mixture of ATF and nail varnish remover, paint it on the threads and wherever you can get it, then bash the criap out of the end of the big bolt-head and around the sides of the nut, hitting the flats directly. The idea is to knock them just a tiny, tiny amount out of round to allow your easing fluid into the gap. Get two long breaker bars and extension tubes, if necessary. Don't worry about trying to use two bars at the outset, you need to get the whole shebang moving a bit. First, put a bar and extension on the outside hex head, extend to the max in a clockwise direction then stand on it. The idea of tightening it first is to break the crust of rust. If it cracks a bit and/or turns you are starting it off. If this fails, jack the back of the Landie up, rest the bar on the ground or the top of an axle stand, to your right, then let the Landie down using its weight to move the bolt and nut. Once it is on the move, rest the end of the back bar on the ground on the left, looking at it from the rear, so that as you move it the back one resists. Then stand on the outside bar in anti clockwise direction. They are really big nuts and bolts so I doubt you'll shear them off. If you do well, new ones can't be that expensive. I had the same problem ages ago and had to do this. A heat gun will not set your fuel on fire, I doubt, but there is only any point in using it on the nuts, you don't want to heat the bolt. But if you heat it up then spray the bolt with something cold, like WD or even iced water, it may help to crack the rust. Lock washers will give you the confidence of the assembly on reassembly but copperslip on the nut will help to get them undone again. I personally put two nuts on, as locknuts to ensure my FO big trailer doesn't go on holiday without us!
Click to expand...

Can't add anything to that! R.e cost of new bolts, why are you removing it in the first place? If it's to replace, a lot of places sell towbar with fixings for decent money
 
Thanks for all the replies. I was going to remove the fuel tank but the bolts and towbar would need to have to be removed to do this. I have left it for now and given up. Thanks again.
 
brianconwy said:
Thanks for all the replies. I was going to remove the fuel tank but the bolts and towbar would need to have to be removed to do this. I have left it for now and given up. Thanks again.
Click to expand...

Have a beer and go again tomorrow. That's what I'm doing ;)

Remember, it's only nuts and bolts!
 
Have you got access to someone in a truck garage with an 1 inch drive impact gun?
They're powerful enough to warm the nut up & shake it free if used in forward & reverse a few times.
 
I went out to it this evening and using an angle grinder ground off the threaded end of the bolt. Using 'freeze your nuts off' and force have managed a little movement. After a creak the bolt and nut are moving as a unit. I have applied a load of plusgas and will try again tomorrow.
 
brianconwy said:
I went out to it this evening and using an angle grinder ground off the threaded end of the bolt. Using 'freeze your nuts off' and force have managed a little movement. After a creak the bolt and nut are moving as a unit. I have applied a load of plusgas and will try again tomorrow.
Click to expand...

Great stuff, if its all moving you stand a good chance
 
Last edited:
Thats the passenger side off but on the driver's side there isn't room to get a socket on the nut and I am not sure a spanner will take this kind of pressure without rounding off the nut.
 
brianconwy said:
Thats the passenger side off but on the driver's side there isn't room to get a socket on the nut and I am not sure a spanner will take this kind of pressure without rounding off the nut.
Click to expand...

Bit risky ain't it. 6 sided socket be much better...any pics of where you're trying to get to?
 
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