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MonsterBabyBLN

New Member
Dear community. Proud owner of a2007 Vogue here.
Replaced the alternator last year. Painish..
And now I have a bad leak from the top of the high pressure power steering hose..it has just come loose badly..
But I have no idea how to reach it?
Can anyone shed some lights?
Which size is the nut? Do I have to take off everything around?

Thnx for the ideas
 

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I'd would clean it down with Degreaser, run it while someone turns the wheels and see if it's just the seals on the banjo bolts 👍
 
The hose has come almost completely off. I think I just need to tighten it.
But I can't reach the banjo bolt. Which wrench or nut do I use?
How do u reach it?
Do I have to drain the coolant and take the cooler hose off?
 
Couldn't tell you personally kiddo. Usually a certain amount of parts being removed will present the solution. If you have to drop the coolant to gain access and make the job easier then that's what your going to have to do matey. 😉
Keep us updated would you as it'll help someone else. 👍
 
I have found that every time I need to work on mine it is always easier to just remove everything in the way. Pretty sure that involves draining the coolant 99% of the time. No L322 has had coolant over a year old. Ever! :)

Replace the alternator? Drop the coolant. (I guess you did too)
Heater solenoid? Drop the coolant.
Repair a punture? Bugger I didn't need to drain the coolant... force of habit!
 
Well I'm stuck at the curb in pretty much downtown and was hoping to just fix it right there. If anyone can tell me the size of the nut for the banjo bolt of the high pressure hose that might help..
 
That photo looks odd - then I realised it's a LHD model!
Firstly, that's a charge air hose, so no coolant involved, just take the hose clamp off - there will be some oil in it by design, shouldn't be more than a few drips though.
The banjo bolts will be Torx head, T45 from memory, clean the area as much as possible with brake cleaner, acetone or similar to remove any contamination that might get into the system, there will be PS oil running out of the rack and pipework so have a tray underneath to catch it, you'll also need some replacement fluid.
Good luck!
 
WOW.. I cant see the head at all is the problem!.. I thought its like a 20mm nut ?.. yes.. LHD..
but torx?.. I felt the head.. I didnt feel anything..
this is the Bolts Name... QFM100041... I just need to fasten it!.. it just came loose..

but I cant reach it with any wrench.. I took off the charger hose already.. but still.. It's like I have to reach around the rack!!

I can buy a bent wrench.. I just need to know the size of the nut.. I doubt it can be torx?

maltings4x4store.co.uk

Genuine Range Rover L322 Power Steering Return Pipe Banjo Bolt - QFM100041

Genuine Range Rover L322 Power Steering Return Pipe Banjo Bolt - QFM100041
maltings4x4store.co.uk maltings4x4store.co.uk

feels like it looks on here
 
@Graculus This is the pipe we are talking about.. I guess the LHD is the other way around ?.. and this does not have a torx.. I need to know the size of the top nut
 

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Right, the most visible pipes in your photo have the T45 domed head banjo bolts are not the ones you're on about (circled in red below), it's the one behind, just visible and circled in green - easily accessible on a RHD I'm afraid, from memory it's a 24mm bolt head, in your case (and having never done this job on a LHD variant) I'd suggest marking then unbolting the rack from the subframe to allow some sideways movement to give you access room - you'll need to support the subframe and remove both roadwheels and undertray. You shouldn't need to disconnect the steering column as there should be enough movement to get in with a shallow socket and flex-head ratchet. I don't have access to a L322 to check the size I'm afraid.
L322 rack.png


I've just found this for the RHD L322, something in the back of my mind is making me think there may be one 24mm & one 22mm bolt head...
L322 rack2.png
 
It's not even the one in green .. it's behind the green one. There are four pipes going up. The two reds. The green. And the one that's oily. Above and behind the green is the bolt.
I have ordered a new one now in the UK. 3 pounds plus 35 shipping. Lol.
Then I will know the size. 22 sounds reasonable from my feelings..

I'm parked on the curb lying under the car.

So when I wanna lower the rack the subframe comes down as well?

I have no clue about the range tbh. Besides the alternator I have never worked on it
I have a silver shadow that gets all my support. Haha.

Thank you for all your help so far
 
You don't need (or want) to lower the steering rack, just move it sideways for access. If you look at the schematic from the workshop manual and orientate it with your photo, the one you seem concerned about is the upper one in the green circle - did you also order new washers?
 
I browsed their page but not wuite sure which one to look at as I have a 3.6 tDi
I found a video though on youtube where a guy changes the rack on a 2010.. its pretty much the same.
the nut size he sais is 3/4..!!

my last question: to move the rack just like 1cm to be able to put a nut on the banjo bolt... Is it possible to just loosen the steering rack somehow ?

or do I have to take off the hubs lower subframe and what ever else that is to much for a curb job ?

thnx @Graculus a lot!
 
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That's what I was saying, lift the wheels clear of the ground, unbolt the rack from the subframe to allow sideways movement which will give you better access. 3/4" is roughly 19mm, I'm sure they're larger than that - but it has been a while....
Don't worry too much about the engine on that site, the steering rack is the same (mechanically) on all models, only significant difference is LHD/RHD.
 
RAVE "All Models Version" has sections for V8 & TD6 covering both LHD & RHD. It's also to navigate than that website above.

1716044098796.png


Main difference between LHD & RHD, seems to be the RHD says to lift the engine to clear the mounts so you can access the rack easier.

The manual is about removing the rack, but for your purpose, what Graculus says about moving it a bit is probably sufficient, so you can ignore some of it (but best to read it all & compare the pics with what you see under the car).
 
So for anyone in the future: using a flex head ratcheting wrench I was able to solve the problem without touching the steering rack!. You need a 22mm wrench to undo the lower banjo bolt first and move it out of the way. quite easy.. when this is off its tricky but you can reach the top 19mm banjo bolt, I was using a 3/4 flex head to get to it and tight the banjo again.
 
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