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b20wnx

Well-Known Member

• Jan 21, 2014

• #1

1970 Series 2a with 200tdi (discovery) engine
wiring behind dash is a complete mess and i want to add various other items such as - front fogs - rear work lamp - fog and reverse light - clock - cig lighter socket - interior lights - annameter etc etc

i purchased a 12 spade fuse box and some relays. i was going to try and use the correct colour wire but have decided that i shall be using mainly red and black as i wont be doing a complete rewire (ATM)

i thought that i would run 12 seperate wires direct from the battery (located in the rear tub) to the fuse box (which will be sat above the dash panal) then onto the relays and to switch etc.

is this the way you would do it or would you do it a different better way?
any help or assistance will be appreciated. (i will be lableing all new wires)

 

joe27979

Well-Known Member

• Jan 21, 2014

• #2

personally i'd run one thick cable from battery..unless you got the fuse box with individual feeds? or has it one common in and 12 fused out?

 

top-cat

Well-Known Member

• Jan 21, 2014

• #3

b20wnx said:

1970 Series 2a with 200tdi (discovery) engine
wiring behind dash is a complete mess and i want to add various other items such as - front fogs - rear work lamp - fog and reverse light - clock - cig lighter socket - interior lights - annameter etc etc

i purchased a 12 spade fuse box and some relays. i was going to try and use the correct colour wire but have decided that i shall be using mainly red and black as i wont be doing a complete rewire (ATM)

i thought that i would run 12 seperate wires direct from the battery (located in the rear tub) to the fuse box (which will be sat above the dash panal) then onto the relays and to switch etc.

is this the way you would do it or would you do it a different better way?
any help or assistance will be appreciated. (i will be lableing all new wires)

Click to expand...

I have done just that with both my 90`s Individual single cables will be easier to terminate than one big enough to carry the current you could be taking.

 

joe27979

Well-Known Member

• Jan 21, 2014

• #4

can't quite see in pic but my fuse box has one common feed.
it has a 20amp inline blade fuse at battery-then each output has it's own fuse.

I run cig lighter, cb, hazards etc from it



work out the approx load you're gonna load on it and that will tell you the cable size and fuse protection you need to run one cable.

if you know what load you want (fog lamp wattage, cig lighter load etc) I can work it out for you chief. amps = Watts/ volts

this chart will help work out cable size you need if using one length of tri rated cable:
Solar Panel Information | SolarPanelWiringDiagrams | CablesAndFuses

 

Blackburn

Well-Known Member

• Jan 22, 2014

• #5

Single feed from starter motor battery supply connection then link all your fuse inputs to that.If you run 12 wires from rear tub to dash and put fuses at dash end you have twelve sources of fire from rear tub to dash.

 

Bump

Well-Known Member

Events Planner

• Jan 22, 2014

• #6

If you run one big cable, put a big fuse at the battery end, as above, the length of cable from battery to first fuse is all a big fire waiting to happen (well, potentially) so, protect it!

Personally i'd rip the lot out and re-wire. Use thin wall insulation cable. I've just bought a multi-core cable running front to back - that gives me more capacity than i need for all the lighting and more

this is what i use: Thin Wall Multicore Cables

Good luck

you could also consider one of these:

http://www.autoelectricsupplies.co.uk/product/1052/category/63

That would distribute to the whole vehicle in a lot easier manner than a normal fuse box

 

Last edited: Jan 22, 2014

Dr_evil

Banned

• Jan 22, 2014

• #7

I've done mine like this ?

 

Tobi

Active Member

• Jan 22, 2014

• #8

Agree with complete rewire.

Did that to mine and it was quicker than working out where to join in.

I used thin wall and multi core cables where ever I could, gives you twice the protection against insulation being worn thru. Also put harness in trunking, it's neat and adds more protection.

 

Ruari

Active Member

• Jan 22, 2014

• #9

Draw a wiring diagram before.
Or send me a PM and I will show you a wiring diagram of what I did to my car.

My preference is in soldered bullet connections where possible and heta shrink. keeps the joints all tight and sealed. You can get relay holders with built in fuse holders. Saves on some of the wiring.

Referencing the multicore option - trailer board lighting is pretty good.

 

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b20wnx

Well-Known Member

• Jan 27, 2014

• #10

hi guys and thanks for all the replies
the fuse box is a 12 in 12 out type fuse box. i am when i have time going to see if i can relocate the battery back under the bonnet but its a big heavy duty one (bigger than the normal type) and its had a conversion to a 200 tdi.
i have looked to see if i can get the fuse box on the dash but its not going to work there so its going onto the bulkhead under the bonnet, i had considered behind the rear bulkhead next to the battery but would mean a lot more wires running to switches on the dash.
thought this was going to be so easy but have still got to give it a lot more thought i thinks.