This was my experience of paddocks paint but a different type of roller might help. The paint has little bubbles in it when rollered with screwfix mini rollers which pop as the paint dries giving the orange peely look
https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/scot-and-ben.289532/page-4
Professional mohair rollers are the best but have to be washed and dried a few times to eliminate loose hair. At the end of the day a roller stipples.
I would never leave a rolled finish as is. Roll it on for sure but then use an almost dry worn brush to lay off. Always top to bottom as thats where the light comes from, if light strikes horizontal brush lines they get a shadow under each one which makes them look worserer, Just like every individual peak on a rolled surface. ;)
 
This was my experience of paddocks paint but a different type of roller might help. The paint has little bubbles in it when rollered with screwfix mini rollers which pop as the paint dries giving the orange peely look
https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/scot-and-ben.289532/page-4
Were those rollers foam or microfibre. I can't decide on which ones to use. Great job on your 2A. It looks very nice and I would be more than happy with a similar paint finish on mine....

Cheers.
 
Youd be as well getting half a gallon of dulux gloss. The formula isnt that much different and itll dry slightly slower so the paint will relax more and youll end up with less brush or roller marks. Pound for pound it also has more pigment in it and more solids at a similar size so the finish will be shiner and almost as hard. Early enamel was called so to identify the size of the solids. It was ground finer to give a better finish but these days a top quality domestic 'trade' gloss is as good as an old school enamel. ICI produced most of the countries pigments so you got more in Dulux their paint company. This tradition is being held up by todays Dutch owners.
Prep as normal, one coat of thinned undercoat, one coat of thinned 50/50 undercoat and gloss then a final coat of thinned gloss will give you a very good finish indeed. Cutting back to smooth with a fine wet and dry between coats. Dont be tempted to get dulux from anywhere other than a trade center as B&Q and the like stock a DIY formula of dulux and it is made for out of the can application. Its not a patch on the real gear that has to be thinned for any use never mind flatwork. Oh and use white spirit not turps substitute from the same Dulux Decorators Center. Its important ;)
Try and use a good quality 'USED' brush to lay the paint off. Even a house painter wouldnt dream of using a new brush for a front door never mind steel. They must be worn in over time and ask any decorator that knows his onions and he will tell you. A new brush only goes in emulsion for at least six months. :)
Thanks Bobsicle. That is really very helpful. I didn't know that Dulux trade paint and DIY paint was so different in quality. You learn something new everyday. Would you recommend a water based gloss for the top coat or something cellulose?....You obviously have great knowledge and experience with paints and I am really appreciating your very kind help.

Thank you again.
 
Thanks Bobsicle. That is really very helpful. I didn't know that Dulux trade paint and DIY paint was so different in quality. You learn something new everyday. Would you recommend a water based gloss for the top coat or something cellulose?....You obviously have great knowledge and experience with paints and I am really appreciating your very kind help.

Thank you again.
No.
 
So it's Cellulose paint that you recommend?....

Thanks.
You’d be wasting your time clear coating by hand with no advantage to an already rough and ready finish. ;)
You won’t get a good hand finish. Unless of course you have ten or so years spare to practice :D
You may however squeeze in an acceptable attempt.:)
 

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