R

Riddle

New Member
Hope some one can shed some light.
just started taking my 1988 90 apart with the intention of ending up with a half decent landy but after taking the rear tub off the chassis looks very rusty on the back end. it has had a new rear crosmember but there are a few holes around the top of the shock mounts, the front of the chassis is fine. How rusty is acceptable and when is it time to admit defeat? :doh:
 
thats just a bit of surface rust "lol" you can buy any part of the shassis from britpart so they are never to far gone as long as your good with a mig welder
 
Try the ball pein hammer method of checking!!

If it rings its ok if it sounds crunchy you're in trouble!:doh:

seriously it depends on the solidity of the main rails and how rusty they are inside too. If they are scaled deep on the inside where you can see you are on a loser in my opinion. If you are welding bits on for every MOT then its time for a new one, depending on budget of course.
 
No chassis i really to far gone. You can but the metal make up the chassis rails your self, cut the old crap out and do a proper butt weld with a gap left for penetration and you will never know its patched after a quick rub with the grinder. The real problem is when people stick patches on top of rot, it just spreads.

As far as repairing a chassis it really depends how good your fabrication and welding skills are, How much time you have to spend repairing it, For a lot of people it is quicker and easier to replace the full thing.

I am pretty sure there are companies selling any chassis part you require, personally i make my own
 
Many thanks I will have a look at the parts available as I did not realise you can buy sections. I will post some pics after I visit the landy again at the moment its only at weekends as it is not at home. Can anyone suggest a mig welder that will not break the bank?
 
Riddle said:
Can anyone suggest a mig welder that will not break the bank?
Click to expand...
MIG Welding Forum

You need to decide on a budget - "won't break the bank" can mean £50 or £500! I bought a cheap MIG and regretted it straight away. Luckily I got a fair chunk of my money back when I stuck it on fleabay. Then I bought a better quality, but second-hand unit. Definitely the way to go if you're on a budget.
 
Also when spending the money on the mig, the parts etc etc, you can buy a brand new galvanised chassis for about £1200. This would then last a few decades so ultimately saving you money in the long run and saves lots of hassle (apart from the initial swap). There are some places that will swap it for you but your adding an extra thousand for it to be done.
 
Don't discount getting a little AC arc welder if you're on a tight budget. It'll be good for chassis welding, and it's very cheap, and there's not a lot to go wrong with them. I love my arc welder. I love my MIG and my 50 litre bottle of gas too, but that has cost me at least 5 times more than the arc welder in terms of initial investment, and the ongoing cost of consumables is negligible in comparison to the MIG (you just buy rods, not wire, gas, shrouds, tips, wire liners, little bits of foam that strip the wire of all the dust that craps up your liner etc etc). Arc welding is a lot of fun, but it's also a lot more difficult, just practice _a lot_ on scrap metal, 2mm and 3mm, and your chassis will love you :) Having said that, I'd still use MIG to get the tidiest looking weld on my chassis, but all that matters is that it's strong.
 
The only down side to a MMA plant is that it takes a lot of practice to get a good weld especially going vertical. Mig plants are better for DIY'ers.
Im ok i can weld with every process but then again i am a class 1 welder to trade which helps. Im also doing an HNC in automotive engineer comes in handy for playing with the landy. Seriously though with a mig you can stop and start like doing a series of spot welds until you get the hang of it.
 
Thanks guys
I can not afford a chassis swap at the moment so it looks like a welder for approx £200 if I can get one that will do the job for that
 
I have a sealy that puts out about 140 amps. Fan cooled etc it was only about 150 quid a few years back. It has welded loads of landys and loads of MG's. Just dont turn the gas up to far or you end up drawing air in to the weld pool and it will cost you a fortune in gas. When i was an apprentice we use to measure the gas by having it as a gentle breeze on your face. At college they had us setting it to around 6 - 8 litre on the flow gauge.
 
andy mcd said:
I have a sealy that puts out about 140 amps. Fan cooled etc it was only about 150 quid a few years back. It has welded loads of landys and loads of MG's. Just dont turn the gas up to far or you end up drawing air in to the weld pool and it will cost you a fortune in gas. When i was an apprentice we use to measure the gas by having it as a gentle breeze on your face. At college they had us setting it to around 6 - 8 litre on the flow gauge.
Click to expand...


make sure its turned off though else it dont half make you jump when the wire jabs in your cheek;):mad:
 
i bought a clarke 151TE after many recomendations on here as your "standard hobby" welder

having only arc welded before mig is just like a hot glue gun and is infact not all that hard to make metal stick effectively after a bit of practice - my welds are even getting neater.

bit out of yer pricerange thought BUT if i was buying again id buy the one below - think its 140 because ive welded up to 4mm plate on the chassis cross member and cannot use the top 2 settings on the 151 without blowing fuses because im using a 13 amp fuse due to being in a rental property - cant stick in a breaker

cant see me welding any thicker !
 
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