L

Lady

New Member
Hi sorry if this is posted in the wrong part, my bro does his own waxoyl and is likely to be doing mine too for a small fee, now Ive got a Defender. He does it every year before winter, is that too often or about right?

I also assumed this wasnt expensive to do but noticed at a garage they charge £400 to strip,steam clean then waxoyl a Defender, seems a bit pricey? I haven't pointed this out to my bro as his fees might go up,:rolleyes:
 
I did mine two years ago. I gave it a very thorough wash with a pressure washer then Waxyoiled it. I am planing on doing mine again this year. Here we do have quiet a heavy snow fall. It still looks in good shape underneath but it doesn't take long and is worth it just for the piece of mind.
 
I usually do mine every year around April time. Thorough clean on ramps with a pressure washer, leave a day to dry then spray about 8-10 litres of the stuff on.
 
There was a guy on the Scottish Land Rover O.C doing an under body Steam clean and waxoil for £160, so £400 seems a bit greedy
 
Ham Salad said:
I waxoyl outside, and spray dinatrol into the chassis and box sections and cavities
Click to expand...
Really good idea!
I put plastic plugs in the chassis drain holes, spray Dinitrol into the chassis and drive it around for a few days with the stuff in the chassis, then remove the plugs.
I paint the outside of the chassis but I should think repeated Waxoyl would be good too!
 
Hi guys,

I am looking to buy a gun to spray whatever cavity protector (dinitrol/waxoyl/owatrol) in the defender cavities. I am looking for a gun that has a long probe to that I can put into the holes of the chassis as much as possible + a 360 wand so that the cavity was gets sprayed all around.

What do you think about this one? description of the gun here.

if you have any other one you'd recommend, or a supplier for the wand, please share

cheers,
Simone
 
eightinavee said:
There are far better products that actually work.
Click to expand...
I have no idea and the forum debates are lengthy, so can you suggest a 'better' product than Waxoil and explain why it 'actually' works ?
No offence, but not saying what you think is better is not very useful :)
 
I have treated many customers vehicles over the years and Waxoil used to be OK... But, about 4 years ago I did my own DII - 90% of it had fallen off the chassis after the first winter. I'm now using Dinitrol and getting far better results,for instance more than 90% of what I put on my DII is still holding on from when I redid it post Waxoil. I use the 4941 for exterior surfaces and the ML for inside the chassis etc. Way better than Waxoil. Preparation is key to ANY of these products, there is no point in thinking any of it will stay on a poorly prepared or rusty surface,especially poorly Landrover chassis's.
 
I've got one of these https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Professi...un-for-Underseal-Waxoyl-etc-WS1-/121506217427
It was a good deal less than £82 when I bought it, but it is a good device, with a sturdy canister which is fully pressurised to force the material out of the spout. The only problem is that the rubber washer between the top bit and the canister deteriorates and the rustproofing goo sprays out there too. However, I found some suitable sized rubber washers on Ebay so that was remedied in the end.

There's some pictures on my clutch rebuild thread showing the chassis last Christmas. https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/browns-clutch-rebuild-thread.324126/ It's still nice and black from a Dinitrol treatment I gave it in July 2013. So I didn't see any point in re-doing the areas where it's holding up. However I do touch up areas (usually on the outriggers) where there's any sign of it deteriorating. For small areas I just use a paintbrush, and the thin runny Dinitrol can be dispensed with one of those cheap plastic spray bottles with a trigger on it if you're just doing a touch up. The other thing I do is whenever I take a component off the chassis, such as a detachable crossmember or fuel filter mount, I make sure there's Dinitrol on the mating faces when it goes back together, so rust can't bore holes in the chassis as a result of water getting trapped in the crack. I am going to spray a load more thin and runny ML inside the chassis this summer. I also have been spraying it inside the box sections in the bulkhead through the various hinge screw holes and along the bottom edge where it meets the floor pans. I've sprayed it up through the drain holes in the door bottoms too, and whenever I have the trim panels off the internal door frame looks nice and black rather than orange and powdery.

So rather than slathering gallons of the stuff on every year indiscriminately, I'd say after one good treatment to keep an eye on it and touch up (a lot of my chassis is still smooth and black five years or so after the initial treatment), and be generous with the ML on the bits you can't see.
 
I have one of the sealey guns too and compressor - its a good bit of kit. Taking recommendations from previous posts on this site I opted for Dinitrol on the outside surfaces of the chassis (not sticky! - VIP) and Waxoyl on the inside. Someone recommended starting the inside treatment with Waxoyl diluted 50/50 with white spirit to get into the crevices and stick well before completing with a full thickness coat. The realism of pumping stuff into the chassis is that you don't really know what the coverage is like ..... confidence requires quantity .... Dinitrol is not cheap whereas Waxoyl is. At least if you've pumped 5 or 10 litres of cheap Waxoyl into the chassis each year you know it is in there and due to the quantities you can afford to pump in the coverage is probably pretty good. The reality of pumping stuff in blind is different to the the nice clean and ordered YoUTube promotional videos (more so if like me you don't have a pit or a car lift and are working in a cramped space with face fulls of cavity wax). In an hour on a hot day I can comfortably pump in 5 litres of waxoyl to the satisfaction of my OCD!
 
@eightinavee
Thanks for the clarification. The more I hear about Dinitrol the more I like the sound of it. My chasssis was waxoiled by the PO but there's little left that I can see.
Ta.
 
I'm pretty pleased with how the Dinitrol has stuck on after five years or so. I cleaned off all the loose material and road dirt, but didn't clean it all the way back to bright metal - this would be impossible without taking the body and all the running gear off anyway. The outriggers have shown some surface rust coming through but I think that's because they get abraded with gravel and salt thrown up from the tyres. A quick touch up once in a while keeps them in one piece. I think the main thing is to keep looking at it and replenish as necessary. And not be one of those people who never checks their chassis until the terminal MOT failure.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

L
Newcastle mech recommendation?
Replies
8
Views
484
neilp1
N
L
Protecting a Defender 2011, 110 from the elements without a garage
Replies
13
Views
977
landybex
L
T
looking to buy defender 110 advice please
Replies
2
Views
441
ttaattyy
T
O
New to Landy zone & recently purchased 1996 Defender 110 300 TDI
Replies
2
Views
240
brianp38dse
brianp38dse
V
Defender 110 CSW TD5 failed sniff test
2
Replies
21
Views
1K
versteckt
V