May I ask what's putting you off Bilt Hamber's 'Dynax' range please?

If it helps, the S50 and UB are dark brown, the UC is a very light brown (almost fawn), and they're all made in Britain.
 
I'm having mine fully under sealed this weekend (after having a new rear cross member fitted, then when it gets a bit warmer i'm gonna fill the chassis and bulkhead with as much cavity wax as I can.

On my classic 1958 beetle I pumped it full if 15L of Waxoyl in all the cavities, and under sealed then waxoyled on top the underside.

That was well rust proofed! Park it on a hot summers day and wax used to drip out! Lol!

I'm going to do similar with the Landie.
 
JoethePlumber said:
May I ask what's putting you off Bilt Hamber's 'Dynax' range please?

If it helps, the S50 and UB are dark brown, the UC is a very light brown (almost fawn), and they're all made in Britain.
Click to expand...

Just don't really know enough about it and some of the reviews are hit and miss.. I want black.. I love the look of the underside of the one done with the dinitrol especially on the axles..
 
Brown said:
Slosh'n'seal, then.

Must take you ages. Mine's punched full of holes and looks more like a colander than a chassis.
Click to expand...

Not too many in the front sections, if it is same as mine. A pressbrake xmember and fitting plates gets rid of about twenty holes in the chassis aft of the rear axle.
Slosh and seal is a pretty good description, that is exactly what does seem to happen, other than the major works aft of the rear spring turrets, my chassis is completely original and solid after 25 years.
 
Turboman said:
Not too many in the front sections, if it is same as mine. A pressbrake xmember and fitting plates gets rid of about twenty holes in the chassis aft of the rear axle.
Slosh and seal is a pretty good description, that is exactly what does seem to happen, other than the major works aft of the rear spring turrets, my chassis is completely original and solid after 25 years.
Click to expand...

Same as mine, the whole chassis is really solid except the rear cross member which now has a Pressbrake one welded in the place of the holey Landrover one.
 
garethmorgan50 said:
I like the black dinitrol that you've pictured in the rustproofing thread.. I'm looking to use an air compressor to spray mine on.. I take it you used the spray cans.. any idea how much I would need? and how long would it take to do the job..?? If time allows I might do both my landies,..
Click to expand...

To be honest I am really impressed with the finish. It didn't take much effort to get it like that.

It took me one afternoon to pressure wash it all, then left it 4 days to dry out, then an evening to wire brush it all, and 2 evenings to get all of the dinitrol on.

I used 6 cans, which is 3 litres, but could have done with a bit more.

You can get 2 or 4 cans on ebay, think you use this stuff if you want to use a compressor
2 x DINITROL 4941 UNDERBODY CHASSIS RUST PROOFING BLACK WAX 1 LITRE | eBay

4 x DINITROL 4941 UNDERBODY CHASSIS RUST PROOFING BLACK WAX 1 LITRE | eBay
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

L
T-Max tyre compressor to power spray gun
Replies
3
Views
684
boguing
boguing
S
What's the part 'liberally' coated in oil or fluid
Replies
4
Views
311
Sulloir69
S
johnnymarrsbarres
Buying a Puma / Roof Respray Cost?
Replies
15
Views
719
johnnymarrsbarres
johnnymarrsbarres
dag019
Painting under the capping
2
Replies
21
Views
864
shaynecm
S
G
Defender 90 advice
2
Replies
30
Views
2K
grandy21
G