F

Finlandy

New Member
Hey all!

I just bought a 2007 Freelander 2 whose mileage was only about 51 thousand km (a bit over 30 thousand miles). Unsure of its maintenance history I decided to replace the transmission fluid. The car has automatic transmission. Out came only about 2,5-3 litres and in went about 2-2,5 litres of fluid. Transmission worked flawlessly before and after the change, I wanted to change the fluid just in case. However, the small amount of fluid concerns me a bit. Is that amount normal?

Cheers,

Finlandy
 
Good question, I also want to service the gearbox. I think you need to cycle through the gears to get the fluid out...
 
Did recycle gears AFTER refill to check if excess come out. Shoot. As said, transmission works brilliant but started to wonder the small amount of fluid that went in... Tried to find info with Mr. Google with no particular luck. I thought ppl on this site must know.
 
Cheers, I actually did find that site earlier today but got confused because I find these two sentences contradictory:

”I used the �Dump & Fill� method. (This method changes approximately 3 litres ATF each time)”

and

”Spares required
A minimum of 4 litres ATF fluid (I bought 10 litres & used 9)”

So did he put in 3 litres or 9 litres? Can’t be 9 though as they put 7 into new car in assembly.
 
He probably flushed it out a few times. This is what I would do depending on what I find on drain.
 
Aah, makes sense. I just emptied the tank and put new stuff in. The removed fluid seemed ok. I mean it was dark red, almost black but couldn´t see anything unusual or worrying in it.
 
There's two options. Partial change which is about 3L. Or full change which is a lot more, using the gibbons method of pulling a pipe off and allowing fresh oil to circulate until what flows out changes to the new oil colour.

A partial change is all that's needed. Seasoned FL2 owners do a partial change every 50k miles.

The FL2 uses the same partial change method as the jatco auto oil change in the FL1, but the level check is done at a higher temp of 60 degrees. Don't forget the oil level check is done with the engine running.

The phrase dump and fill should be drain and fill.

Only buy quality oil. Different version needed for early or late auto's. It is far cheaper to buy good quality auto oil than buy a replacement auto gearbox, or repair one, because cr*p auto oil was used.
 
Finlandy said:
Aah, makes sense. I just emptied the tank and put new stuff in. The removed fluid seemed ok. I mean it was dark red, almost black but couldn´t see anything unusual or worrying in it.
Click to expand...
It will darken with use. The thing to watch out for is a burnt smell. That's when the clutches are slipping, which is bad news.
 
To do a full change you need to make up a pipe and drain the old stuff out with the engine ticking over, at the same time you have to try and put in oil at approximately the same rate as it is coming out, that's why many people do the simpler partial change, if its done annually then the oil should keep in decent condition, the level check procedure is important.
 
Hippo said:
There's two options. Partial change which is about 3L. Or full change which is a lot more, using the gibbons method of pulling a pipe off and allowing fresh oil to circulate until what flows out changes to the new oil colour.

A partial change is all that's needed. Seasoned FL2 owners do a partial change every 50k miles.

The FL2 uses the same partial change method as the jatco auto oil change in the FL1, but the level check is done at a higher temp of 60 degrees. Don't forget the oil level check is done with the engine running.

The phrase dump and fill should be drain and fill.

Only buy quality oil. Different version needed for early or late auto's. It is far cheaper to buy good quality auto oil than buy a replacement auto gearbox, or repair one, because cr*p auto oil was used.
Click to expand...
Cheers, Hippo for answering my question concerning the fluid amount, that´s what worried me in the first place! Also thanks for other valuable info!
 
raywin said:
To do a full change you need to make up a pipe and drain the old stuff out with the engine ticking over, at the same time you have to try and put in oil at approximately the same rate as it is coming out, that's why many people do the simpler partial change, if its done annually then the oil should keep in decent condition, the level check procedure is important.
Click to expand...
OK thanks. Annual change sounds overreacting for normal use (not off road), especially when the manufacturer says the fluid should be changed every 10 years and now, after almost 14 years (of course the mileage was unusually low) the fluid still seemed ok.
 
Ignore what lr says. It's too long for comfort. Every 50k miles is best. Lr auto gearbox's are normally partial change at 60k miles but we have found some have some minor problems near 60k miles so seasoned FL2 owners change the auto oil at 50k miles.

Auto gearbox oil doesn't get dirty like engine oil. So it doesn't need changed so often. It includes cleaners to help clean the box. If you change it all then it can sometimes cause problems by releasing deposits. Hence why a partial change is enough, as per advice from the auto bix manufacturers. If it's been a long time since it was last changed then repeat the partial change after doing a further 200 more miles.
 
And don't forget the haldex oil anorl. Change the oil every 20k miles. Filter every 40k miles.

And the rear diff and transfer box should be checked anorl. Oil changes are one of the cheapest things to do, to be kind to your car.
 
Finlandy said:
OK thanks. Annual change sounds overreacting for normal use (not off road), especially when the manufacturer says the fluid should be changed every 10 years and now, after almost 14 years (of course the mileage was unusually low) the fluid still seemed ok.
Click to expand...
Not a full change annually, just the 3 ltrs.
 
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