discomania
Well-Known Member
OK - it is not through lack of trying then!
Are they drilled properly? It almost sounds like a grease passage issue, grease guns can generate excellent pressure and should be able to push grease through OK but it doesn't sound like this is happening!
dag019
Well-Known Member
My conclusion is that due to the grease nipple angle it does not equally distribute the grease and it will burst a seal on the easy access cups before fully filling the more difficult ones. Because they get changed regularly they press out easily and I can now swat one over in about 20 min including removal and refit of the prop shaft it is just annoying.
I do enough. It is a daily drive so most of the mileage is on tarmac but I try and get out and green lane at least every couple of months. It is more often if you include wet/muddy grass/field as off road.
Hicap phill
Well-Known Member
Can you see grease pop out all joints?
Spin propshaft & use an openended spanner to relive the pressure on the cup. Pump grease in till you hear it pop/ crack. Try not to pump to much past seals.
Spin propshaft & use an openended spanner to relive the pressure on the cup. Pump grease in till you hear it pop/ crack. Try not to pump to much past seals.
discomania
Well-Known Member
Probable - but it should distribute out OK. I know 2 cups always ooze first, but I give it a good whack on the grease-gun till it oozes a little from the others.
At least they are easy, quick and cheap enough things to change!
brian47
Well-Known Member
Most grease points on an ordinary vehicle will require LM grease. I decided to use "Moly-Grease" in most applications instead many years ago.
It is LM grease but with molybdenum disulfide (Moly Slip) added to the mix. It looks very similar to the grease supplied in sachets with new CV joints.
I actually keep two grease guns, one with Moly Grease and the other with LM grease. When I put the Disco in for service, I always provide my Moly grease gun for them to use, no trouble.
The cost of Moly Grease is very similar to standard LM grease.
I agree about pushing more grease into the joints before the prop shafts are refitted to the vehicle. The position of the joint while it's just flopping about on the end of the shaft does make filling a lot easier.
Another problem which I have come across is actually getting at the grease nipple. Sometimes they're too short which means that there is just one particular point where the grease gun nozzle will fit properly. I overcame this difficulty by fitting slightly longer grease nipples. Be careful about your choice of grease nipples, too long and they can foul as the U/J is rotating.
discomania
Well-Known Member
I know the stuff you are talking about but Moly Grease is not the same as original Moly Slip, i.e. Moly Slip AS40. Moly Grease contains a token gesture 1% molybdenum disulphide. It is still better than regular LM for sure but it is just dosed LM.
I use Moly Slip AS40 or ROCOL MTLM which runs anywhere from £45 a tube to £115 for a small can £1200 for a big can. This is the only stuff that is close to the original Moly Slip and today's formulation is around 40% molybdenum disulphide and 20% graphite.
The issue was they didn't know the value of molybdenum when they first started making this stuff, they knew it was good but not just how good, molybdenum is now one of the most expensive metals in the world - hence the cost of these greases and pastes!
frog hopper
Well-Known Member
Feck me, eye up Jason, nice to see you mate, hows it all going?
(I'm still the only brit in Gerards gang
) Countryland is having a bit of a revival at the moment, must be about 20 of us now.
frog hopper
Well-Known Member
Something a LR mech told me about (he showed me how to do it) was to use a fine slitting disk in an angle grinder and score a fine shallow groove in the end of the bearing legs, clean off any dust/edges and refit as normal. It is meant to ease the passage of grease from the center to the sides if one of the cups is hard up against the leg.
I probably get to replace at least two joints every couple of years, but it does get off road a bit, and the earth here is very sandy in some of the forested areas so that is a bit of a killer.
I probably get to replace at least two joints every couple of years, but it does get off road a bit, and the earth here is very sandy in some of the forested areas so that is a bit of a killer.
