dag019

dag019

Well-Known Member
I have a disco 200tdi, with an lt77 gearbox and a 1.2 ratio transfer box and 455k on the clock. I do not tow often but when I do it is heavy loads (car trailer with land rover/tractor on it). I do not do a huge amount of off roading and when I do only green lanes (although the current clutch did go to morocco just after being fitted). I do do a fair amount of miles in my 110 (25-30k a year) and have just had what appears to be a mechanical clutch failure after 55k (see strange clutch behavior thread: link).
I currently have fitted the below:

upload_2021-4-11_14-43-5-png.235669


I have used this set up for the last several clutch changes. The previous clutch changes was because the gearbox was out for recon rather than a clutch failure but on removal one of the clutch springs had broken and part of it had imbedded itself in the side of the friction material although was not causing any symptoms.
The time before that was because one of the clutch fork slipper pads had split in two. I do not remember the reasons for the times before that although one of them would have been another gearbox refurb.
However certainly the last three (including this time) clutch changes have been at about the 50-60k mark. Is this just how long a clutch lasts and I am expecting too much from them? Every time I have had a clutch fail it has not actually been the clutch itself but the release mechanism (fork/bearing/etc) which is a known weak spot but surely it is not unreasonable to want more mileage between changes?
 
sounds like your vehicle has a relatively hard life, are these clutch parts of good quality i.e. OEM , Borg and Beck etc prices seem low. My 110 is only used on the road but so far has done 96000 miles on the same clutch with no problems
 
110tim said:
sounds like your vehicle has a relatively hard life, are these clutch parts of good quality i.e. OEM , Borg and Beck etc prices seem low. My 110 is only used on the road but so far has done 96000 miles on the same clutch with no problems
Click to expand...
Clutch plate and cover are oem, both valeo which is an oem supplier. The release bearing and fork are aftermarket but are both hd items to make up for it. So I am hoping that quality should not be an issue. Valeo certainly gets good write ups. Although it had never been the clutch itself that has failed always the other parts.
 
dag019 said:
I have a disco 200tdi, with an lt77 gearbox and a 1.2 ratio transfer box and 455k on the clock. I do not tow often but when I do it is heavy loads (car trailer with land rover/tractor on it). I do not do a huge amount of off roading and when I do only green lanes (although the current clutch did go to morocco just after being fitted). I do do a fair amount of miles in my 110 (25-30k a year) and have just had what appears to be a mechanical clutch failure after 55k (see strange clutch behavior thread: link).
I currently have fitted the below:

upload_2021-4-11_14-43-5-png.235669


I have used this set up for the last several clutch changes. The previous clutch changes was because the gearbox was out for recon rather than a clutch failure but on removal one of the clutch springs had broken and part of it had imbedded itself in the side of the friction material although was not causing any symptoms.
The time before that was because one of the clutch fork slipper pads had split in two. I do not remember the reasons for the times before that although one of them would have been another gearbox refurb.
However certainly the last three (including this time) clutch changes have been at about the 50-60k mark. Is this just how long a clutch lasts and I am expecting too much from them? Every time I have had a clutch fail it has not actually been the clutch itself but the release mechanism (fork/bearing/etc) which is a known weak spot but surely it is not unreasonable to want more mileage between changes?
Click to expand...

I would say that is too little. Disco Clutch is designed for towing and off roading.
A few things worth checking when you change it again are, spline wear on the gearbox input shaft, linkage adjustment to be sure the clutch is fully engaging and disengaging, and wear on the flywheel itself.
Imperfection in any, or all, of these areas, can cause premature clutch failure.
 
dag019 said:
I have a disco 200tdi, with an lt77 gearbox and a 1.2 ratio transfer box and 455k on the clock. I do not tow often but when I do it is heavy loads (car trailer with land rover/tractor on it). I do not do a huge amount of off roading and when I do only green lanes (although the current clutch did go to morocco just after being fitted). I do do a fair amount of miles in my 110 (25-30k a year) and have just had what appears to be a mechanical clutch failure after 55k (see strange clutch behavior thread: link).
I currently have fitted the below:

upload_2021-4-11_14-43-5-png.235669


I have used this set up for the last several clutch changes. The previous clutch changes was because the gearbox was out for recon rather than a clutch failure but on removal one of the clutch springs had broken and part of it had imbedded itself in the side of the friction material although was not causing any symptoms.
The time before that was because one of the clutch fork slipper pads had split in two. I do not remember the reasons for the times before that although one of them would have been another gearbox refurb.
However certainly the last three (including this time) clutch changes have been at about the 50-60k mark. Is this just how long a clutch lasts and I am expecting too much from them? Every time I have had a clutch fail it has not actually been the clutch itself but the release mechanism (fork/bearing/etc) which is a known weak spot but surely it is not unreasonable to want more mileage between changes?
Click to expand...
quality of parts varies, i find that frequently with well used trucks original clutch did 130k replacement 50k then another 100k or release bearings ,lever etc failing far sooner
 
Might be worth fitting a HD clutch kit. LOF clutches seem to be the go to for something better than standard
 
What I notice at work is nowadays the friction material on the friction plate rarely fails, it might wear out at silly miles, but they never make it to silly miles as something else always fails first, release bearing is by far the main failure point, other one is friicton plate damper springs making a break for freedom.
 
jamesmartin said:
quality of parts varies, i find that frequently with well used trucks original clutch did 130k replacement 50k then another 100k or release bearings ,lever etc failing far sooner
Click to expand...
lynall said:
What I notice at work is nowadays the friction material on the friction plate rarely fails, it might wear out at silly miles, but they never make it to silly miles as something else always fails first,
Click to expand...

That is exactly my experience, the clutch plate and cover have never been the failure point. it is always something small and irrelevant but causes a massive job.

D2206 said:
Might be worth fitting a HD clutch kit. LOF clutches seem to be the go to for something better than standard
Click to expand...
The clutch I have fitted is a HD firction plate as it is for a 130, the issue is the release bearing and arm, both of which my current ones look to be the same as what is offered on the LOF website.
 
The way the clutch pedal is set up can effect the operation and life of the clutch, especially the release bearing, if you have replaced the clutch master cylinder or worked on the pedal box make sure it is set up correctly with the correct free play.
 
Scooby22 said:
The way the clutch pedal is set up can effect the operation and life of the clutch, especially the release bearing, if you have replaced the clutch master cylinder or worked on the pedal box make sure it is set up correctly with the correct free play.
Click to expand...
Yes I am aware of how to correctly set up the pedal height and travel etc to ensure the system is not constantly held under pressure.

I have ordered the same kit as I fitted before because it was available with next day delivery so am hoping to spend the afternoon stripping the floors out etc to move the gearbox back.
 
i'm no expert on clutches, though i'm expert in clutching at straws!
is there any way to inadvertently cause undue pressure somewhere to wear elsewhere, or causing things not to quite line up even though it's all put together properly? I'd expect it would take very little if compounded, to reduce lifespan especially if the mechanism is already a weak spot

might be talking out of my donkey as usual :rolleyes:
 
Quick question on replacing the clutch rather than starting a new thread. I am moving the gearbox back as my method of choice. Last time I did the clutch I had the gearbox out for recon at the same time. If I am just moving it back do I need to remove the gearbox crossmember? I had a productive lunch break and have stripped floors, linkages, props and handbrake so all that is left to do is gearbox mounts and bell housing bolts.
 
dag019 said:
Quick question on replacing the clutch rather than starting a new thread. I am moving the gearbox back as my method of choice. Last time I did the clutch I had the gearbox out for recon at the same time. If I am just moving it back do I need to remove the gearbox crossmember? I had a productive lunch break and have stripped floors, linkages, props and handbrake so all that is left to do is gearbox mounts and bell housing bolts.
Click to expand...

Well I suppose in theory you could try, but it is just so in the way that surely it's easier just to undo it and put it back in again afterwards. I dunno about yours but mine's just four bolts.
 
Brown said:
Well I suppose in theory you could try, but it is just so in the way that surely it's easier just to undo it and put it back in again afterwards. I dunno about yours but mine's just four bolts.
Click to expand...
It is not difficult to remove. But I have to jack the chassis legs apart to remove and refit and if I can get away without would definitly make things easier and quicker.
 
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