mundungus

Active Member
So, the landys been parked up for a couple of weeks. Came home one day and noticed a couple of patches underneath it. Oh yeah, me thinks. Didn't have time to look at it, so slipped a tray under one of them and waited till the weekend.

Turns out there are three minor leaks. One is clear diesel coming from the tank somewhere. The top of the tank is bone dry, but there is a fold of metal that seems to make a seam in the tank, which has diesel running down it. I cant actually see where the leak starts but the tank is pretty rusty and google says this is a common fault.

There is another slow oil leak somewhere from the engine. Again, cant identify where exactly, but the underside of the engine has a thin layer of oil in places. The oil actually looks quite new (not gunky) which is odd because i haven't changed it recently. Guess ill have to clean this off to investigate further.

Also, have noticed a there seems to be a thin spray of oil on the chassis and exhaust, sprying out from between the handbrake and the rear prop. Am guessing this one is just the oil seal, no biggie, have new ujs to go on anyway.

So back to the diesel tank. Am thinking that a new tank may be in order. And am thinking sooner rather than later before the weather gets too cold. How hard is it to change? So far everything has been much harder than it should, cos all the bolts are rusted to ****.
 
As hard as you make it :rolleyes:


I just chopped my rusted bolts out with an angle grinder but mine wasn't leaking, in your case I'd say nut splitters
 
Is there much else that needs to come out, or relatively simple that just the tank can be taken out on its own?

Any hidden bolts or crap like that to be aware of?
 
Assuming the bolt positions havent changed much and its the rectangular steel one that sits under the rear tub like mine

Its 2 on the rear x-member and 2 kinda above the rear axle which are in little pods, if you see my rebuild thread you can see the pod things I'm on about, I'll go have a quick look for the pic
 
depends theres a coulpe of bolts at back and one at front which is bolted to a bracket that is removeable from chassis ,hose clip on filer pipe is best done with socket 6 or 7mm depending on clip sometimes ive had to undo sill frame to get tank in/out,look out for long floor screws that can damage tank
 
This more like it ?

Screen shot 2011-10-24 at 21.24.03.png
 
As the guys say - disconnecting the pipes and sender is easy with drivers seat removed

Bolts will be rusted so cut or split off

Tank can need a fair bit of force/wiggling to pull clear
 
If its leaking and you're going to scrap it I'd say drain it, unscrew everything then just go to town on it with a hammer
 
good idea - if it's catching against something, no harm in 'denting' the offending bit with a large chisel hand hammer :D
 
nothing against chiselling fastenings etc but usually a good idea to remove something properly as you need to know new will go back and how
 
Thanks guys, think I'll get that ordered up tomorrow. As well as the tx box seal.

Hoping the weather holds out till the weekend.

And yes, will be draining every drop. The price of the new tank is 80quid from paddocks, the cost to fill it is about 60 these days. Cant be doing with pouring diesel over the drive.

Bit of a fecker that I've only just filled up the tx box with oil after doing the front oil seal. Now ive gotta drain it again for the rear. Must be more vigilant in future.
 
Just to add a little excitement to your day...the tank SHOULD drop out easy enough UNLESS its had the dumbirons put in incorrectly in which case its an absolute arse of a job to get the new tank to sit properly.

Sincerely yours, the voice of experience, junior member.
 
90 tanks are only about 45 litres iirc.

And congrats..£120 for a disco isn't a bad price....
 

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