VeeEight

New Member
I want to try and flush the coolant on my 1996 HSE to try a block repair liquid.

Are there any intructions or links so could see exactley what to do?


Thanks
 
If Iwas flushing I would drain, refill with water and drain again.
Maybe low pressure hose through if needed.

I have seen a polymer sealant type sticky stuff advertised on ebay.
it recomends to drain, refill with water and sticky stuff.
Run for a while, drain and leave to dry over night.

Heypresto?????, this is now supposed to have solved the problem all depending ont size of your crack, some of us have bigger cracks than others!!!.

I rekon there are loads of these sticky cures around, and I have heard that some work.I suppose if it dont cost a lot theres not much to loose unless your rad and heater gets bunged up.

it would be interesting to hear of anyone that has cured any probs with this type of stuff though.
 
You are supposed to by-pass the heater matrix when carrying out this process.

I had my P38 done twice by a local Land Rover specialist during the 2 years I had it. Worked well both times.

:)
 
I've herd a few people say they work quite well. but my main question is exactley how to drain the system, ok there is the top and bottom hoses on the radiator, so take them off, take the rad cap off and the expansion top so it can all drain out, anything else?

is there anything to remove on the block itself?
 
As it happens I'm in the middle of being on the receiving end of this problem. I'd like to say a big thankyou to a previous owner who's obviously stuck some of this sticky gunjo in my p38 2002. As no combustion gases were showing up in the coolant I've simply suspected poor circulation and air locks. I replaced the rad, pump and stat and circulation certainly improved big time. But, inexplicably [to me, as yet] I got crackling and spitting on restart with coolant vulcanoing from the header tank.I was topping up with copious amounts of water. God knows where it all went. The exhausts turned into disco smoke machines and water vapour was visible from the dipstick tube. I see evidence that the head gaskets have been replaced, which obviously didn't remedy the situation hence the gunjo.
According to the workshop comic there's a drain plug on the side of the block. I haven't got to that yet-I'll be starting on the dismantling later today.
So to all the contributors who recommend "sticking this gunjo in and getting rid" - I trust you'll get your reward in heaven.
Still, at the end of it all I'll have a rebuilt engine which can't be all bad.
regards to all. P.S:)
 

Similar threads