There are differences between LHD & RHD vehicles, RHD use same spring on each side of an axle, LHD often use different lengths on the same axle & need to be fitted on the correct sides.
NRC4304 go on the rear, both sides.
This worth a read: http://www.red90.ca/rovers/springinfo.html

Have a look at the spring listings on Rimmers, note that 'P' on the end of their number is a Pattern or aftermarket. Leave the 'P' off when searching the net.
Rears: https://rimmerbros.com/ItemList--Range-Rover-Classic-Coil-Springs-Front--m-14950
Fronts: https://rimmerbros.com/ItemList--Range-Rover-Classic-Coil-Springs-Front--m-14950

Mine's due a new set so my measurements won't be any help.
I've no idea about lifts other than suggesting you measure the springs off the vehicle to see what their actual length is.
 
Thanks for all the replies! Man, it's unbelievably great how helpful everybody is around here! As soon as I get to the suspension (later that year given the current speed of me working) I'll definitely update the build thread.
 
Just forget about what ‘should be’, it can be whatever you want, stand back and take a look, if you like the stance and it drives as you want it to it’s correct :)
 
Yeah, I guess that's what I'm going to do. Finish the car, finish the build out, load it up and test drive it. Then we'll see...
 
I would look at that before carrying any work out or ordering parts. I was lucky, my insurance weren’t bothered as I have a full clean slate from day1 and said I could have 12or something? without further charge.

All needed to be declared beforehand was the only stipulation they had.
 
Luckily, insurance isn't a problem. Being a historical car it is insured a such for, compared to our other rides, close to nothing. The TÜV is a different thing, they have to approve technically and that it is still a "historical" mod meaning it could have been done within the first ten years if the car's life. Lucky me, the previous owner works there! But for now it is getting road worthy first... Simply not enough time...
 
That explains why you want things ‘original’ 80’s.

I think it’s worth it, looks a lovely truck that has obviously been looked after in the past. Will outlast much newer ones no doubt
 
I hope so, I have no intention to sell it!
I have been a lucky guy to find that fine lady, especially for a reasonable price!
 
Yes you are fortunate
Nothing better than finding a good Rover
And it not breaking the bank
The previous owner passed it to someone
I would say cares
Good for you both
I love these stories
I feel everyone has a good story
On how they got their
First Range Rover
Or second and so on
 
Second? My beloved government would do some not so comfortable things to me if I ever had that idea. Or if I would ever follow through with it... I still want 110!
 
My P38A is my 3rd Landrover.
Only had one at a time,

I previously had Defender 90’s. I loved my last Defender lasted 19years. Finding my p38 stopped me missing her :)
 
hef19898 said:
Second? My beloved government would do some not so comfortable things to me if I ever had that idea. Or if I would ever follow through with it... I still want 110!
Click to expand...

I think you'll find the 110 somewhat agricultural. Great workhorse and good fun off road but really wallowy on road and not happy at motorway speed. Parts are cheap.

Mind you, classic was wallowy before EAS was fitted. Much, much nicer though, especially with the V8 burbling along. Pity they dropped into a pile of rust when the sun went behind a cloud.
 
You only get he second
When the first rusts our from under you
The beginning of a major pain in the .......
Why would your beloved government care
About a second or third
Here they don’t care :)
 
She let have the first one, so yeah maybeee I could get away with number two!

I also know already a place where I could find a 109 with a surprisingly solid chassis and body even most if the other bits and pieces are missing. The place has a 88 with a V8 a couple of meters away. Oh, if I just had the time and skills for that, would be one of the rare things that could separate me from my RRC!

P.S.: I like V8s!
 
FWIW my '91 runs the HD spring set up (police spec) so red/white springs on the back and green (standard rear) on the front. Hub centre to wheel arch centre is 480mm give or take. I run 235/70/16's, the 235/85 is a bit too tall without other modifications. The HD springs give a slight lift but no really noticeable changes in ride and handling, the front axle does rotate forward slightly changing camber/castor angles but it is very slight. HTH.
 
classic kev said:
FWIW my '91 runs the HD spring set up (police spec) so red/white springs on the back and green (standard rear) on the front. Hub centre to wheel arch centre is 480mm give or take. I run 235/70/16's, the 235/85 is a bit too tall without other modifications. The HD springs give a slight lift but no really noticeable changes in ride and handling, the front axle does rotate forward slightly changing camber/castor angles but it is very slight. HTH.
Click to expand...

There is no camber on a range rover axle.
 
I'm not entirely sure that is completely correct to say there is no camber on a RRC axle. The official workshop manual doesn't specifically give figures for camber but makes the point that no adjustment is provided for castor, camber or swivel pin inclination. When a suspension lift is applied without using castor correction bushes or radius arms the axle rotates slightly which alters the geometry slightly. There is a slight loss of self-centering in the steering and a change in the shoulder wear pattern as a function of the small change in the angle the tyres contact the ground most particularly when not in the straight ahead position.
I can absolutely confirm that if you place a spirit level against the front wheel of a RRC and check for plumb, the wheel leans in at the top which confirms there is camber on the front axle which will change slightly when the axle rotates with a suspension lift. Hope that helps, cheers.
 
classic kev said:
I'm not entirely sure that is completely correct to say there is no camber on a RRC axle. The official workshop manual doesn't specifically give figures for camber but makes the point that no adjustment is provided for castor, camber or swivel pin inclination. When a suspension lift is applied without using castor correction bushes or radius arms the axle rotates slightly which alters the geometry slightly. There is a slight loss of self-centering in the steering and a change in the shoulder wear pattern as a function of the small change in the angle the tyres contact the ground most particularly when not in the straight ahead position.
I can absolutely confirm that if you place a spirit level against the front wheel of a RRC and check for plumb, the wheel leans in at the top which confirms there is camber on the front axle which will change slightly when the axle rotates with a suspension lift. Hope that helps, cheers.
Click to expand...

It is absolutely correct. With a lift the caster can change but the camber which is zero cannot. Toe out 0 to 2 mm. Caster angle 3 degrees. Swivel pin inclination 7 degrees. Camber angle 0 degrees.
 
Last edited:
Castor changes are only really necessary if your lifting way up from what I’ve been told. Some people like to do it out of course
 
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