Rockingit

Rockingit

Active Member
2004 4.4p

I've noticed that there's a lot of rust and air where there should be metal around the hub knuckle and thinking this might be an issue (and not helpful for camber alignment either). As I'm replacing all the hub bushes, air bag and link rod anyway I'm thinking I should just get one in and swap it out at the same time - a first look and it doesn't seem particularly difficult but is it something that can be done without a ramp??
 
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Be an idea to put which Range Rover it is at the start of each new thread.
Think a lot of people will just pass the post by without looking at your post history to find that out.
 
Simply select the RR type when creating the thread title !!

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@Rockingit as the thread starter, you can also change the model in the title.

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Ah! I’ve never realised that - I’ll edit when back on a PC in a minute.

But while waiting, here’s a couple of pics to illustrate….

IMG_3212.jpeg
IMG_3216.jpeg
 
I've done a few of those, not too bad a job if you have a reciprocating saw to cut through the old arm so you can get to the inner mountings - which side is it? I have a genuine nearside one I could sell for a very good price... You'll also need all the fasteners and it'd be an opportune time to do the toe links and hub ball joints if worn. Subframe replacement seems a bit OTT but only you can judge the level of corrosion, arms seem to be more exposed to corrosion due to the muck the wheels fling around, subframes and inner bits less so...
 
1988smithy said:
You need to look at potential sub frame replacement. Check rear arches and sills as well.
Click to expand...
The sub frame seems OK, as also is most of it in general - one thing it seems the PO did do was be generous with the wax oil, it just seems that this bit got missed - this is OSR, NSR was nothing like this and was fine. I’m doing all the bushes, toe link and air strut(s) anyway (the hub and driveshaft are currently on the bench after they put up a fight!) so it’s not a stretch to swap this out too. I guess at some point I need to know when to stop……
 
Rockingit said:
The sub frame seems OK, as also is most of it in general - one thing it seems the PO did do was be generous with the wax oil, it just seems that this bit got missed - this is OSR, NSR was nothing like this and was fine. I’m doing all the bushes, toe link and air strut(s) anyway (the hub and driveshaft are currently on the bench after they put up a fight!) so it’s not a stretch to swap this out too. I guess at some point I need to know when to stop……
Click to expand...
When to stop? Generally that's when either the money or patience run out:rolleyes:
 
OK...... I'm actually looking at this properly for the first time, having gotten the replacement over the weekend. How the heck do you actually get access to the thing to do it?! Currently debating on dropping the outside of the lower arm out to be able to swing it out of the way. Hub is already removed, airbag is removed, toe arm about to get chopped out (<< were already on the radar!).

Has anyone even tried to do this at DIY level? There's a hundred videos on front arms and rear bush replacements but nadda on removing the whole arm.....rear, upper.
 
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I've only ever done it on a lift, which helps massively as you're always able to be at the right height / angle.
Not my photo, but hopefully it'll help
Make the cuts shown in white first, to gain access to the bushes - use a plasma cutter or a reciprocating saw with decent metal cutting or 'rescue' blades on a very slow speed with proper cutting oil.
Assuming the bolts won't release, make the cuts shown in yellow with a reciprocating saw, if the bushes are loose enough, use a chisel underneath to push the arm out of the way to improve access, you only need to cut through the top part of the bush sleeve and the bolt.
If you're lucky, you can tighten the nut back up and pull the remainder of the bolt shank through the bush, use larger nuts or lots of washers as spacers once you reach the end of the thread. If not, make the cuts using the previous method along the green lines.
If you can't get the right angle and the body is in the way, I suppose you should be able to slacken all four subframe mounting bolts by 30mm which will leave it hanging but not enough to cause any consequential issues.
L322 rear upper arm bushes.png
 
Because of not having the benefit of a lift, I've decided to take the brave route of removing the lower wishbone entirely as theoretically that looks just like three main bolts which are easy-ish to get to. Once that's out of the way then I'll have the space and angles to be able to get in their with either the grinder or recip as you suggest above. Also means that there'll be sod all left in the wheel arch and I can have a decent clean and hammerite session!!
 
Sounds like a plan! - I'd be very hesitant about using a grinder, it only (and I'm sure you're aware of this ) needs to snatch or skip and you're looking at repairs to the subframe...
 
Graculus said:
Sounds like a plan! - I'd be very hesitant about using a grinder, it only (and I'm sure you're aware of this ) needs to snatch or skip and you're looking at repairs to the subframe...
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What - you mean a shiny new hole and not an old rusty one??! 🤣

But yes, absolutely agree. In fact, now I come to think of it, have a look up ^^ at my first pic - does that not look like it could well have been some careless chopping out of a previous bolt?!

If my next thread is entitled 'How do you remove the subframe on an L322?' then you'll have your answer 😆
 
If I was in any doubt before that it needed doing.... I'm unsure how I didn't spot this on the first inspection!!

Top arm rust.jpg


The lower arm is fine though and came out a lot easier than I was bracing myself for.

Bottom arm off.jpg
 
ive changed the top ones and bottom ones on both sides as mot failures onmy l 322 . the top ones are easy ,buy a puller set of the auction site and then use a reciprocating saw ifthey wont come out ,mine did comeout then use the puller set to pull out and pull new ones in . The bottom ones are swines . I ended up having to use a bit of pipe that was the same size then cuttinng out about 30degrees out as in situ a totally round one cant sit properly . Once i did they they pulledout great . Have to say that the rust on your top fitting is horriffic . I know my mot lad would fail on that
 
rover75lover said:
ive changed the top ones and bottom ones on both sides as mot failures onmy l 322 . the top ones are easy ,buy a puller set of the auction site and then use a reciprocating saw ifthey wont come out ,mine did comeout then use the puller set to pull out and pull new ones in . The bottom ones are swines . I ended up having to use a bit of pipe that was the same size then cuttinng out about 30degrees out as in situ a totally round one cant sit properly . Once i did they they pulledout great . Have to say that the rust on your top fitting is horriffic . I know my mot lad would fail on that
Click to expand...
I think you're talking about the bushes on the hub not the actual wishbone/control arms themselves?

You're absolutely right about the lower bush being a pain as the dustguard gets in the way - what I've done (both sides) to overcome this was just to strip the brake shoes out and then you can take the guard fixing bolts out but without needing to remove the actual hub, you get enough play and slop then for the larger puller to sit true. Although the biggest pain is having to scratch away the corrosion and grime to find the ends of the circlip, and then persuade that to come off! Last one I did I just removed the whole hub and halfshaft and did it on the bench, chased the rusted circlip off with a cold chisel!!

Hub on bench.jpg
 
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