Grrrrrr said:
Procedure to set static timing is in RAVE. I would imagine you are very close to stalling on lifting the throttle and seeing the engine management light flick on at times.
Click to expand...
No management light, no threat of stalling. Just rough tickover and difficult hot starting.
Static timing procedure in RAVE seems to allow for wear (Engines with more than 20k kilometres ). Mine has done more than 200k miles!
Should I still do it according to RAVE or do the 'slacken the pump and tap it' method?
Advice welcomed thanks
 
plumbfisher said:
No management light, no threat of stalling. Just rough tickover and difficult hot starting.
Static timing procedure in RAVE seems to allow for wear (Engines with more than 20k kilometres ). Mine has done more than 200k miles!
Should I still do it according to RAVE or do the 'slacken the pump and tap it' method?
Advice welcomed thanks
Click to expand...

In the first instance I would follow RAVE. While you're about it I would check the lift pump output as per Wammers post in the Technical Section. With modulation that high at idle I am surprised it hasn't stalled on you or at least flicked the engine management light on at some point.
 
Thanks Grrrrrr. I'm trying to source the tools needed to do the static timing. A bit frustrating knowing that the local main dealers have all the tools, boxed up and unused because they are not interested in doing anything on old P38s. And then last night the drivers inside door handle seems to have disconnected from the latch... so I'll maybe do that it the meantime. Oh the joys!;)
 
you can adjust the static with dti kit, eventually it will jump a cog or go bang without renewing the chains.
I have seen few get away with jumping a cog and resetting timing, it depends how far they’ve gone?
Welcome back :)

Thanks Roller! Good to see you all still here! I've had the most eventful year or so... huge changes for me, some :eek::(, a bit of :), but the old Rover has been consistent and reliable throughout !:)
So I'm more determined than ever to keep the old bus going. I don't know how badly stretched the chain is, suppose it must be bad for the timing to be so far out.:(
What is 'dti' kit? Is that LR 12 117,121, and 108, the tools needed?

Still, I have fixed the door handle (for now!)
 
plumbfisher said:
What is 'dti' kit? Is that LR 12 117,121, and 108, the tools needed?
Click to expand...
Wammers best to ask what tools
You’ll need inlet gaskets (May get away with it if plastic manifold), timing pin and suitable dti kit, good read through Rave and few spanners.
Not sure what kit number is I had @Bagshot s after he fell in love with a V8 is how I was sure get right one. They can be pricey but nothing compared to what garage will charge for half hearted attempt.
Take look at this
https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/2-5dt-fip-static-timing-ominous-hotstart-found.347592/
 
About 200 from a quick look online. But I've set things in motion to borrow what's needed. ;)
Bit of a worry now, I hadn't thought about it jumping a cog! Does that happen?! :eek:
 
At your mileage on original chains/tensioners/sprockets
Yes
You can set the static more than likely but if when the chains stretch too much it can skip a cog or kill an engine depending on your luck on that day.
At 200k plus if you have original chains, are thinking of keeping the engine and have good compression I would be leaning towards new chains, tensioners and sprockets, maybe HG while you are there.

RAVE - LRT 12 121
D871D7B3-25B4-445F-98A3-F299E94F110D.jpeg

If you have access to a lathe Wammers has put the timing pin dimensions in the Tech Archive

This is what I have, just used regular spanners for the HP pipe unions not got the thing in RAVE
926ACF1E-52C0-440E-B47B-332FE758DC19.jpeg


It’s in 1/100th of a mil (unlikely to achieve that with diagnostic and a pump hanging off)
 
I’ve seen people do the chains after jumping a cog on here. You have to reset the lot is all and be careful not to be 180• out.
You should usually hear them clacking while before they let go.
You may be okay for another 50,000 miles just don put it off forever.

Static will cure your hot cranking issue and quitened mine down considerably itl run much happier. If you can borrow a gauge do it you won’t be sorry
 
RangeRoller dt said:
I’ve seen people do the chains after jumping a cog on here. You have to reset the lot is all and be careful not to be 180• out.
You should usually hear them clacking while before they let go.
You may be okay for another 50,000 miles just don put it off forever.

Static will cure your hot cranking issue and quitened mine down considerably itl run much happier. If you can borrow a gauge do it you won’t be sorry
Click to expand...

Unless it is turns out to be set correctly already. I'd check the lift pump output before I start as that is quick, easy and cheap. If all else fails he can try turning the pump a mil or two towards the engine but I suspect he's on borrowed time.
 
And there I was feeling a bit more hopeful this morning after reading Rangeroller's post ;)
Borrowed time! Thanks Grrrrrr!
Nanocom shows modulation is way out so I doubt if it is correctly set.
Lift pump output is good as are bleed pipes etc.
I'm going to re-set the timing properly (gauge etc. as recommended) and take it from there
 
'Morning All,
eventually got round to doing the static timing, as suggested, and according to RAVE.
What an amazing difference! One of the best jobs I have done for immediate gratifying results.
Cold start still perfect, tickover now smooth and at 850rpm (after initial warming up) and hot start is on the button too.
Fuel consumption (on a 200 mile trip) is back to 24.5mpg and it runs beautifully. It also seems to change up gears sooner (torque improved?)
Not an easy job for someone with my limited abilities, but obviously it was overdue and needed to be done.
I wouldn't have been confident enough to do it without the good advice and encouragement from you guys, so thanks.

After initially thinking it was going to cost hundreds for the tools, in the end all I had to buy was the adaptor (above post) for 7.99.
Mind it took me all day... and two attempts to get it right!
Modulation now at 49.8%. I guess that is close enough.
Buys me some time, now I can plan doing the timing chain next summer...
Thanks again
Simple pleasures in these difficult days
 
plumbfisher said:
'Morning All,
eventually got round to doing the static timing, as suggested, and according to RAVE.
What an amazing difference! One of the best jobs I have done for immediate gratifying results.
Cold start still perfect, tickover now smooth and at 850rpm (after initial warming up) and hot start is on the button too.
Fuel consumption (on a 200 mile trip) is back to 24.5mpg and it runs beautifully. It also seems to change up gears sooner (torque improved?)
Not an easy job for someone with my limited abilities, but obviously it was overdue and needed to be done.
I wouldn't have been confident enough to do it without the good advice and encouragement from you guys, so thanks.

After initially thinking it was going to cost hundreds for the tools, in the end all I had to buy was the adaptor (above post) for 7.99.
Mind it took me all day... and two attempts to get it right!
Modulation now at 49.8%. I guess that is close enough.
Buys me some time, now I can plan doing the timing chain next summer...
Thanks again
Simple pleasures in these difficult days
Click to expand...
Idle should be 750 plus or minus 50 RPM.
 
Tenebreaux said:
I always thought mine idled a bit high, but it's about 800.
Click to expand...

Rather than set it up right some people adjust the idle value to hide the problem. I cannot remember where the setting is but the default is 128 on the Nanocom iirc.
 
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