Charles Banbury

Charles Banbury

Active Member
I have gained a huge amount of knowledge from the forum about my RR 2.5 DHSE 2002 AUTO over the past few weeks but I have another question.
The car is going to the garage to have a warm start issue resolved. Assuming that the lift pump and plugs are ok. They are going to fit a hot start kit. I had intended also to have the drive train assessed and change the gear oil and the diff oil, then have a superchip fitted. However, as both artificially increase the fuel flow can both be fitted to the engine or am I asking for trouble? Any thoughts very gratefully received.
 
Charles Banbury said:
I have gained a huge amount of knowledge from the forum about my RR 2.5 DHSE 2002 AUTO over the past few weeks but I have another question.
The car is going to the garage to have a warm start issue resolved. Assuming that the lift pump and plugs are ok. They are going to fit a hot start kit. I had intended also to have the drive train assessed and change the gear oil and the diff oil, then have a superchip fitted. However, as both artificially increase the fuel flow can both be fitted to the engine or am I asking for trouble? Any thoughts very gratefully received.
Click to expand...

The chip increases the fuel flow but not when idle control is operating below 9% throttle. The hot fix does not increase fuel flow as such, it tells the ECU that the engine is cold for a set time and the ECU then sets start fuel and switches on glow lamps and of course lift pump.. Your hot start problem maybe related to the lack of power on hills as i outlined before and down to a failed of failing lift pump. On early models the lift pump only worked with glow lamps or with engine running. On models such as yours the lift pump also works when cranking. This was an attempt to cure the hot starting problem. As it gives a tiny bit of internal pump pressure to load the galleries before the internal pressure pump takes over and builds internal injection pump pressure. You will find with an hot engine that if you start immediately after switching off, engine will start no problem. If left to stand internal pressure bleeds off through the fuel return and it will not start immediately but need cranking. The lift pump with cranking was meant to overcome this problem.
 
Thanks very much for that very logical reply. I will get the garage to check the lift pump (I assume that if its not working they will need to remove the tank) and the glow plugs before they fit anything to mask the problem. it is amazing to have such a valuable resource available. it should qualify for charitable status! I am looking forward to gaining enough knowledge to actually answer a question. One day!
 
To be honest, I fitted the hot start fix about 9 years ago, and I had it chipped before that, never had a problem. Guess I'm lazy or too busy, should do the FIP timing,I have asked my friend to make me a locking pin but he is as lay back as me.:D
 
Locking pin? God it gets worse by the hour! Love the old Range Rover but for a mechanically dyslexic owner it's a bloody nightmare. It's a bit like googling a health symptom only to find that however minor it is, the result is defiantly cancer.
So to recap. The garage (Mark Smith, Bicester) has been asked to look at:
  • The lift pump
  • The FIP timing
  • The glow plugs
  • The O rings (air in the fuel?)
  • Replace the DIF oil
  • Replace the transmission oil
Now, off to mortgage the cat and the children. Odd tho, don't seem to mind. Funny that.
 
Charles Banbury said:
Locking pin? God it gets worse by the hour! Love the old Range Rover but for a mechanically dyslexic owner it's a bloody nightmare. It's a bit like googling a health symptom only to find that however minor it is, the result is defiantly cancer.
So to recap. The garage (Mark Smith, Bicester) has been asked to look at:
  • The lift pump
  • The FIP timing
  • The glow plugs
  • The O rings (air in the fuel?)
  • Replace the DIF oil
  • Replace the transmission oil
Now, off to mortgage the cat and the children. Odd tho, don't seem to mind. Funny that.
Click to expand...
Check that the clear pipe from the flter to the FIP is clear of air, they have been know to become porous. Check Rave for pump timing and you will see the need for the pin.;)
 
It's not. There is air in the pipe. When the key is turned, the air bubble disappears towards the block. 'O' rings in the FIP or as you say porous pipe? Will add that to the list! Many thanks
 
Cracks it the fuel filter housing are not unheard off as a cause of bubbles in the pipe, or the filter seal .
 
brianp38dse said:
Cracks it the fuel filter housing are not unheard off as a cause of bubbles in the pipe, or the filter seal .
Click to expand...

Leak off pipes possible too.

I have the timing tools with pin if you want a go. You're not that far away.
 
I've also got a Nanocom. If the fuel pump is out that far it should show on that.
 
That's amazingly kind thank you very much. I am working full on until next Friday, however, if you have some time after Easter and you would be willing to have a look and take on a pupil for a short time, that would be great. I think that I can message a mobile number in the 'chat' session will look at that now.
 
I'm no expert! I've had a few issues which I've managed to fudge my way through with the help on here. Always easier when you've done it once before!
 
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