its no hassle to take the fan off can do in 30 seconds, think i have the annoying silly spring clips so i might take the oppurtunity to put some stainless screw types in..

The thing is hedgehog, theres deffo a blockage of some sort in there, i dont know how well the cooling systems been maintained, hence the protracted measures.. I was told more than 20 mins or the flush wont get to every water channel?? thinking now of doing it tommorow morning running for the day on water then changing thermostat and adding coolent in the evening incase of freezing temps
 
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Jezath said:
its no hassle to take the fan off can do in 30 seconds, think i have the annoying silly spring clips so i might take the oppurtunity to put some stainless screw types in
Click to expand...

Yes. Deffo do this along with the ones for the rad and top hose etc.

Jezath said:
The thing is hedgehog, theres deffo a blockage of some sort in there, i dont know how well the cooling systems been maintained, hence the protracted measures.. I was told more than 20 mins or the flush wont get to every water channel?? thinking now of doing it tommorow morning running for the day on water then changing thermostat and adding coolent in the evening incase of freezing temps
Click to expand...

Well you can't flush it too much :) especially if history is unknown and someone has added the Devil's Spawn (Radweld) into the mix. There are plenty of water channels, and the system is around 13 litres from empty.

Remember to give the rad a good flush. If you have time take it off the car and flow test it.

TONY
 
thanks, i think someone did use radweld :S i think its the heater matrix thats blocked, as from the 2 pipes that come into/out of it behind the lump, only one of those is hot, the other cold... yup someone did use radweld methinks, trying to source a hose pipe atm :D
 
right... im stumped... changed thermostat, no blockage in matrix... bottom of rad is warmish but majority of it is cold.... After all the tinkering it now heats up just after 1000rpm instead of the previous 2500rpm...

Now theres a cylindrical device underneath the exhaust manifold i think its called... I think its the fuel cooler or heater?? one side of it has a hot pipe, other side is cold.. top hose it hot.. bottomhose, the short thing that gos to thermostat is only luke warm/cold.. other 2 sides of thermostat its hot... im stumped :S any ideas? still a small airlock in there? or ?
 
yup, i stuck waterr in from top hose area and it came out down by thermostat area

Thru the rad of course...

But now i read the rad is seperated into sections or something? so i should be testing other pipes for flow in the rad??
 
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just took it for a drive to get it up to temp and heater wasent working at all... not even at high revs.. :S
 
If heater not working at all and matrix is not blocked then it could be air. To flow test the rad you need to remove it from the car. Stand it on its end vertically and whilst covering the lower outlet with your hand fill the rad from the top inlet with water. Once full remove your hand and note how far the water is projected. If the rad is sound the water should project about 18"

The by-pass flow valve in the stat ensures that when cold that the coolant does not flow through the main rad to aid cabin warm up time. Once you have bled system start the car and wait for it to warm up and ensure you have heat on tickover. If not bleed it further until you do.

Have you checked the waterpump efficiency and also checked the there is flow return to the header tank?

TONY
 
yup water pump shoots water almost to the bonnet with it on tickover... flow return to tank might be a problem not sure how to do that without dye, it does come through the tiny pipe from top of rad right hand side a bit, after i turned engine off the last time.. I took the top hose of the right hand side of rad, and a rush of air came out, this was with the filler cap undone, i thought water should rush out there..

I had a bottle on the expansion tank upside down to see the air bubbles come out and i did get rid of alot of air but hasent helped much.. the resulting air in the bottle just smelt of warm coolent.

Also the expansion tank does get HOT after the engine temp warms up to normal operating temp so i assume the water is returning there somehow?
 
Jezath said:
yup water pump shoots water almost to the bonnet with it on tickover...
Click to expand...

Right we can eliminate that then.

Jezath said:
flow return to tank might be a problem not sure how to do that without dye, it does come through the tiny pipe from top of rad right hand side a bit
Click to expand...

That is flow return so thats good.


Jezath said:
after i turned engine off the last time.. I took the top hose of the right hand side of rad, and a rush of air came out, this was with the filler cap undone, i thought water should rush out there
Click to expand...

It should, so you have still got an air lock.

TONY
 
AMG this is a nightmare lol, any tips for getting rid of airlock?? i followed rave on filling doesent seem tomake no diff..
 
amg i spent about 2 hours doin that today no luck and lost the bleed screw twice lool.. do the TD5 coolent systems respond well to vacumn filling?
 
landrover one, although it came in a ****part box? was 18 quid i think.. guys at abergavveney 4x4 said it was good and they never had one come back yet
 
tbh ive not flow tested the rad yet, im loathe to do it in sub zero temps lol, means i gotta take the front of the landrover apart to get to the mountings for it, ive done it before and its not too bad a job, but i have to wait till i get some more cash i think and can afford 20 odd quid on coolent.. with all the bleeding ove done im pretty sure theres just water in there now, last night i rushed out to halfrauds and shoved 2 litres of AF in it, just to be safe.. if it gets above freezing today i might go ahead and do it, but saying that i might wait till ive saved enough cash up for a new rad before i flow test the old one.. Btw the thermostat was a nightmare because of those freakin spring clips!!!
 
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